Belize City - Take Two
14 March 2012 | Cucumber Beach Marina (near Belize City)
Beth / 90's
Saturday, March 10/12
We spent the first part of the morning cleaning out the aft cabin and storing all the things that usually live there in every other nook and cranny of the boat. Jim wired in a new fan, we spread clean sheets on the berth and had a guest room ready for company. We tidied up the rest of our floating home, dusted, disinfected and deemed it suitable for visiting med students and considered the “housework” done.
Then we gathered up all the salty, sweaty clothes, towels and linens into 2 giant laundry bags (unfortunately the washer at the marina doesn’t work) and called Robert. Charlene, at the gift shop, recommended him as a driver and he not only drove us, he changed our impression of Belize City single handedly. (His fee is $50 B for the round trip to town plus $8 B for each stop – not something we would want to pay everyday, but it worked for us that day.) ($2 B = $1 US) First off was a stop at the best known and recommended Laundromat at Belize Dry Cleaners – but it was closed – oddly enough, it is closed Saturday and open Sunday. Around the corner and through a few back streets, Robert took us to another one where the man agreed to do it all for $30 B and have it ready 3 hours later. With the bags gone, we decided it was time for lunch and asked for a suggestion. Robert dropped us off at the Bird’s Isle where we found lots of locals, great atmosphere and delicious food for an affordable price. He told us the isle was once connected to the mainland by a rope bridge, but now folks drive right across to play basketball in the outdoor court, eat well and socialize. One dapper guy in running gear and silver jewellery came in and made the rounds of the tables – shaking hands here and patting backs there – before sitting down for lunch. We wondered if he was a local sports hero, but when we told Robert about it later, he said it was more likely one of the winning politicians. Our meals were very good – BBQ’d pork ribs and chicken stew – both from the specials list.
From there, we circled around St John’s Anglican church – built by slaves 200 years ago from bricks that were used as ballast in British ships – but couldn’t get inside. After walking a few blocks among plain but well kept houses, it was time for a pick up. Within 10 minutes of our call, Robert pulled up to take us to get groceries and pick up the laundry. Our shopping this time was at Public’s (not the same as in the US) where the prices were much lower – and so was the selection. We got what we needed and headed for the laundromat – which I then realized was just down the street from the river and the fish market. What an experience that was! While Jim picked up the laundry, Robert and I went to the river’s edge where fishermen were busily selling their fresh catch right from their small boats. I picked out a nice fat hogfish from one fisherman, he weighed it, I handed over $10 B and Robert motioned to another fellow that I wanted it cleaned. We followed him over the bridge to a big covered area where men and women stood all around at tall tables cleaning their catch. I wished so much that I could take pictures, but I just couldn’t bring myself to stick a camera in the faces of these people so I contented myself with a couple from a distance. One woman was busily cleaning a barracuda – for corning according to Rob – and I had a choice of having my hogfish filleted or scaled and cut into steaks. I opted for the latter.
I don’t think it was just because we were being driven around the city (although that was part of it) but today seemed like a whole different deal from yesterday. We weren’t trying to figure out where to go and we walked in different neighbourhoods, and we travelled with a man who likes his country and his city (and by the way, he is happy the UDP won the election) and we had a great local Experience at the fish market and I guess that all added up to a whole different kind of a day. It was more costly for sure, but I’m glad we did it this way.
With our arms full of clean laundry, groceries and fish, and our senses full of a happy day in the city, we landed back at Madcap to enjoy a glass of wine and the sunset. I panfried the hogfish, squeezed fresh limes and a few grinds of pepper over it and served it with sautéed baby squash slices and carrots tossed with a spoonful of fig chutney. Mmmmmmm …. It was a gooooood day.