We took Terry and Sue over to town so they could get a feel for the hustle and bustle of this town. And yes – they felt the culture shock! The trucks loaded with cattle, the vans and tuk tuks - the motorbikes and pedestrians – vendors right out on the streets, shops with sheets hanging down to protect goods from the sun or drizzle, scraps of this and that flung on the ground to be swept up later, colourful produce and racks of plastic this and that.

With yogurt and cheese from Backpackers, and bags of produce from the street vendors we set off down river to Gringo Bay – which we have now learned is really Buenavista Bay. It was motoring all the way with a 15 to 18 kts wind on the nose but we pulled into our usual spot in front of Martin’s house just about dusk after dodging only a couple of fishing markers. Unfortunately the sky was cloudy so we couldn’t introduce our visitors to the star filled sky that we sometimes have overhead here, but it was still a lovely first night at anchor as we dined in the cockpit on chicken/pineapple stir fry.

Sue and I joined Annie and Jennifer for yoga on Sunday morning – the last session before Annie departed for the US. Even the dogs knew something was afoot I think, because they chased each other around the shala most of the hour instead of engaging in their usual romps off in the garden. Sue was still getting used to the subtle but constant motion of the boat and the day was showery off and on, so we were glad we had planned a quiet one. It is always surprising how we can read and doze our way through an entire day. We ended it with a bang though!

Jennifer invited the four of us, Jean Pierre (Taj Mahal) and Casey over for a pot luck dinner at her house. She cooked up a tasty batch of chicken and a yummy banana-nut cake; I made a quinoa pilaf and broccoli salad. With her candelabra lit over the table and oil lamps and candles flickering all through the dining area, it was a magical setting for dinner. (Jennifer’s home, as most homes are here, is pretty well open to the great outdoors. Wide overhanging roofs shelter the rooms and porches from rain and sun, shutters can be closed in extreme conditions, but for the most part indoors and outdoors blend seamlessly – and Jennifer’s family of bats under the deck keeps the bugs under control!) We laughed and told stories and ate well, and just when the conversation was winding down, Casey produced marshmallows to roast over the candles.

As the first marshmallow was turning golden, Jennifer added wafers and chocolate to the table and said, “Let’s make s’mores!” With that, we all dropped about 50 years and delightedly melted marshmallows on forks, smushed them between layers of crackers and chocolate and remembered the sheer joy of this treat. Then Jean Pierre poured his Grand Marnier into a couple of extra glasses and we started dipping the marshmallows into the liqueur before holding our forks over the candle to admire the blue flame and then popping the sweet treat straight into our mouths. What sheer fun this evening was, and what a treat to share it with Rio Dulce friends and visiting friends. We were still smiling and laughing as we dropped down into our dinghies and lanchas to head back across the dark waters to our various boats and homes.