Velacione - a taste of Semana Santa in Antigua
11 April 2014 | Antigua, Guatemala
Beth / fleecy and long pants last night but t- shirt today

Antigua, Guatemala is noted for its Semana Santa festivities. In fact, it is the biggest Semana Santa (Holy Week) event in the world now – and until this year, we have never been able to time things right to experience any of it.
There are processions and special events all during Lent, but things really come to a climax from Palm Sunday onward. Thousands of people, Guatemalans and foreigners alike, pour into the small city and throng the streets. Some friends leave town; some stay home; most forget about trying to drive anywhere. Hotels double their prices and bookings are hard to come by. We were lucky enough to be able to stay for 3 days with Lori Shea at Casa Muriel since Jim had a dentist appointment on Friday.
Every Sunday during Lent, and every day during Semana Santa, there are processions from various churches. Fortunately, Friday was a procession day with the children’s procession from the Cathedral, and folks were making carpets (alfombras) in the streets. While Jim got his crown in place (at Dr Sami’s), I picked up a schedule of events, booked tickets on Elizabeth bell’s Palm Sunday tour, and started checking out the sights. We also managed to fit in a delicious lunch at a new spot - Los Tres Tiempos – upscale tipico food – delicious.
The big crowds weren’t here yet so it was easy to see the carpet making up close, and to view the Velacione – or Holy Vigil – a magnificent display at La Merced church. In front of a huge backdrop behind the altar, a large carpet (alfombra) of coloured sawdust had been constructed on the floor, and was surrounded by masses of fruits and vegetables along with religious sculptures. We have never seen anything like it – it was intricately designed, lavish, a clear - if temporary - work of art. And that’s the part that’s hard to understand. All these alfombras are short-lived. During the procession, even the most intricate and elaborate carpet is trampled. Once the procession passes, troupes of men and boys with shovels (and even tractors with scoops) sweep up the remains and truck it away.
We watched young people make carpets of sawdust and others of pine needles, flowers and corozo - a pod that grows in southern Guatemala and is traditionally associated with Holy Week. We wandered among the food stands outside La Merced, and we watched men and women create elaborate palm and flower bouquets. These are waved along the procession routes, and are then taken home and saved until the following year, when they are burned to create ashes used on Ash Wednesday.
And then we went back to the parque to watch the children’s procession.