Placencia, Land of Conveniences
26 February 2015 | Placencia, Belize
Beth / hot and laden with provisions
It was an interesting experience to be without Internet for the whole week we were in Sapodilla Lagoon.
For the first couple of days I missed it and noticed an itch to check the email in-box whenever I returned to the boat, just as I would check voicemail and email at home. But I lost that itch and concentrated on being present in the here and now, as we kept busy with exploring and social life for the remainder of the week. Once we got close to Placencia, however, I could feel a return of the itch to connect, and the anchor was hardly down before I powered up the computer and waited as it searched for the wifi signal from Tranquilo. Ahhh, relief. The in-box list flashed up – family and friends with news from home.
I never did get to read a wider selection of news from Nova Scotia, Canada and the rest of the world because of the time available, and communication with other cruising friends would have to wait as well, but that quick connection to family and neighbours was like a hit of some addictive substance! It makes me realize that the very act of disconnecting like this from time to time is a useful activity. We don’t need to know what other people are doing on a daily basis, and they don’t need to know what we had for lunch or who we met at the market or what the weather was like at one o’clock on Tuesday. As for the “children” … even though they are all grown up and busy, I still crave the exchange of a sentence or two at least once a week.
On the other hand, internet connection has become a useful part of our safety and planning preparedness. We listen to Chris Parker on the SSB radio, but Jim really likes to download the GRIB files and to check the Weather stations. All our plans for where we go and what we do are weather dependent. The direction and strength of wind are not just convenient to know; they are critical parts of our decision-making, and the more sources we can use for planning the better (although sometimes it gets more confusing too!) Jim also really likes being aware of world news.
So now that I’ve said all that, let me bore you with a whole lot of details about Placencia!
While I wrote and posted blog entries (note to self – do the writing before hand so all I have to do is post them when I have a signal), Jim took the Hokey Pokey to Independence and a taxi to Big Creek to get the extensions on our passports and boat permit. There was no fee at Immigration for the first 30 days, but each 30 day renewal costs $50 B per person ($25US). It’s another one of those niggly little irritations – a 60 day or 90 day initial permit would be so much more convenient. Is it simply a money grab by the government officials? Our understanding is that most countries give 90 days. At least in Big Creek, receipts are issued by all officials – both Immigration and the Port Authority ($5 per boat per day after the first 2 days) while we hear that in Dangriga, there is no daily fee but a sum of money must be paid for which no receipt is given.
We dropped off a bag of salty, sweaty laundry at Ther’s house and retrieved the same bag of fresh clean laundry the next morning. She hangs the sheets on the line but puts the rest of the things in the dryer (despite my hints that I really like line-dried clothes) so I don’t send in what I don’t want to have machine dried – those get bucket washed and life-line dried aboard Madcap.
We are developing a plan of action for errands in Placencia. We dinghy up the creek to the fuel dock (same dock as the Hokey Pokey) and while Jim buys diesel and/or gasoline, I go to the supermarket. There are three in that area of town – the Everyday Supermarket – closest and with decent prices and so-so selection, the bigger Chinese market farther along on the right, and the largest Chinese store even farther than that on the left. Where I shop depends on the time of day and temperature, the number of things I have to carry, and the particular desires of the crew. i.e. there is not much in the way of crackers and cookies at the Everyday Market, but the prices are better on cheese and beans. (I was looking this time for sun-dried tomatoes but even though the shelves in all the stores held several varieties of olives and half a dozen kinds of hot sauce, there were no sun-dried tomatoes to be found. Renate’s most excellent tapenade will have to be put on hold for a while!)
After the groceries have been lugged back to the dinghy, Jim runs them back to the boat while I walk along to Carmita’s produce stand across from the Tutti-Frutti. This lovely lady and her husband bring produce down from San Ignacio, and their stand is open 7 days a week. The quality is high, they are helpful in telling us what day different things come in and when to get the freshest things, and which papaya will last a few days before it needs to be used. The freezer is filled with chicken and pork; the fridge holds tubs of yogurt; flats of eggs are piled on the counter and bread and baked goods come in once or twice a week. I love to shop here – to exchange a few words with Carmita, and to admire the picture of her newly married daughter posted on the fridge door.
With my bags full from Carmita’s, I continue to walk along to the municipal dock where, if our timing is right, Jim will have arrived with the empty dinghy, ready for the next load.
Wallen’s and the pink M&M store have hardware and household items, and David’s shop down by the municipal dock has boating related products – although rarely whatever we are after! And of course, there must be regular stops at Above Grounds Coffee shop and the Tutti-Frutti ice cream shop! Jim got a good haircut a couple of weeks ago at Z-Touch on the sidewalk, and took a pass on a tattoo – also on offer!
During our quick two-day layover in Placencia this time, we decided to dinghy over once more to Tranquilo – the delightful bar/restaurant on the cay. (Since we appreciate having permission to use their Internet from the boat, we like to spend a few dollars here from time to time.) It opens at about 3 or 4 for sunset drinks and stays open for dinner. Someone always walks down the dock to greet visitors with a cheery welcome, and the waiters and/or manager will often stop to chat if things aren’t too busy. Geof and Andrea both had time to sit with us and chat, respectively, about the restaurant business, and life as a young single mum in Independence/Placencia. Her determination to provide a good life for her 6-yr old daughter is impressive.
And I do believe that’s about enough writing about Placencia – with all its conveniences - for this time! The pic is Yoli's bar on the waterfront. I need to get a good one of Tranquilo!