Day 36, arrived Cape Town, Save the best for last
20 February 2011 | South Atlantic
Casey
As I finish writing this blog that I started just after we arrived in cape town, we are again at sea on our next leg. Maybe it goes to show that sailors do have short memories.
If a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step, and a voyage of 3498 nautical miles starts by raising the anchor and the sails, then it also must be said that such journeys or voyages end only after traveling the last 500 yards and tying up to a dock.
The forecast for the last 2 days approaching Cape Town was SE 30-35 kts and gale warnings for the coastal waters of the Cape area. This was not of serious worry to us since we had taken the advise of the weather people and the books we had onboard and were approaching from the due south. In fact our last day of sailing was great. We approached Cape Point on a broad reach in 30 kts. The main sail was down, and we were making 5.5 kts with just storm jib and part of the jib out. It was early morning when we sighted land, large mountains, cloud covered, but it was definitely Africa. As we sailed into the lee of the African continent the seas became smooth, and smells of earth and the unknown filled the air. By noon we were in sight of Table Mountain, the backdrop of the beautiful city of Cape Town. As we moved into the lee of Table mountain the wind started to become very gusty. 45+ kt wind gusts came down the mountain and picked water off the surface as they raced toward us. Still all was well as this wind was from the aft stbd quarter. In the back of my mind I knew that for the last few miles into Cape Town we would have to round a point and head into this, but could it be that bad? After all,we would be heading into a large commercial port. Surely it would be sheltered and it was only 5 miles upwind anyway. Dumb thought. And now I wonder why there was no advise in the cruising guide about what to do in the event of strong SE wind in Cape Town. In fact, the port is near the shoulder of table mountain, and this is where wind is funneled through a large valley in the western cape area.
So, on with the story - We rounded the point off Cape Town city about 5pm. The wind actually died just as we rounded, and with 5 miles to go we fired up the engine to head in. Here was the city, the new World Cup soccer stadium, and people on the streets, we would be there soon. Then came a puff of wind. And another, and then a steady breeze of 15 kts. Then another puff and it was 20, 25, almost 30 kts all the sudden. "Well we better raise a little mainsail to punch into it, just until we get to the break water," which we could see by then. Now motor sailing with the main and storm jib we were making good speed, and the boat was covered with spray after each wave we hit. We were confused because as we got closer to the breakwater the wind speed kept increasing. We thought at 5pm with 5 miles to go we could be there before dark, but after our second tack, the sun was setting and we were still not to the breakwater. We worked our way up to the breakwater, and by then it was dark and really blowing 40 kts. It didn't seem like a very good idea to enter the harbor, but neither did going back out into the busy harbor. Inside the harbor we motor-tacked our way to the far corner where the Royal Cape Yacht Club was located. We could actually SEE the masts 500 yards away. I went forward to take down the jib and main. Jibs down no problem, but just as I eased the mainsail halyard a gust hit and pop,pop,pop, all the slugs that connect the sail to the mast broke. Now the main was set behind us and looked a bit like a small spinnaker. It would not come down, and it was pulling the boat to port and downwind fast. We nearly hit a docked container ship, and all we could do is steer down wind and out of the harbor with the ripped sail plastered to the rigging. Once outside again we somehow got the sail down. Now without help from the main sail we found it impossible to make progress to windward again to re-enter the harbor. "Ok, there is another harbor about 60 miles to the north, and if we head that way we should be there by daylight." We put Cape Town to stern and head up the coast. 45 minutes later there was no wind. But we were still 5 miles down wind of where we want to go (Cape Town). Is this a funny joke, but no one on board was laughing. So we figured it would be easier to motor back the 5 miles to Cape Town instead of 55 miles up the coast. Exhausted by now, we motored several hours through confused seas and 20 knot head winds to finally tie to the visitors dock at the Royal Cape YC at 5am. After more than 36 days at sea, it is safe to say that the last 5 miles were probably the hardest of the trip.