We pushed out of Shelter Bay Marina, Colon, late in the afternoon of April 2nd, under dark skies burdened with on and off rain. Together with 2 other sailboats, we waited for the advisor to board before heading for the 1st set of locks at Gatun.
In addition to the advisor, 4 line handlers need to be on board, excluding Uwe the captain, so on Magnum we had a total of 7 people. We were lucky enough to encounter James and Tanya, a lovely young competent couple who were staying for a few days on Tanya’s parents’ boat that was tied up next to us at the marina. Both are familiar with boats, with James delivering and working on boats, while Tanya is a cruising kid alumnus, having sailed with her parents when she was younger. Additionally, we hired our agent’s son, James, a 17 year old electrical engineering student and a seasoned canal line handler. Since neither of us had participated in a trial run through the canal as a line handler on another boat (as most others seem to do) we felt more comfortable with at least one person who was familiar with the process.
Our pilot was a very jolly cool guy, liked to talk and assert control against other pilots. When he first boarded he repeatedly told us how he never comes on sailboats, quite a step down it seemed, he usually gets assigned to larger boats. We had heard about the egos of some of the advisors, particularly amongst each other, but he was actually very competent even as he chatted continuously to the girls on the Australian boat.

Just before the entrance to the lock, boats form a raft while motoring slowly forward. Typically, when there are three boats the center one has control with its engine, while the 2 outer ones stand by idling their motors to adjust course when needed and as requested by the pilots. For our flotilla, we formed a 3 boat raft. Squander, an Australian boat with a very cool and likeable bunch of young adventurous Australian guys who we had become familiar with at the marina, became the center boat, with us tied to their starboard side. Tied to their portside was a Russian boat, who we had not met before. Since their English was limited to zero, there was a few tense moments when they played with their lines unnecessarily, but after much yelling by the pilots and everyone else, they behaved from then on.
In the first uphill lock a big freighter was tied up already before us. Because there are only a few inches on either side to spare, the big ships get pulled by shiny locomotives and also a bit by there own power which creates a big surge against our little rafted flotilla, making it swerve from side to side. One has to stay cool to avoid to running into the rough concrete walls. Lots of little mishaps happen to small craft in the locks if you are not cool, actually if the whole flotilla team is not cool. Thankfully Uwe is super cool as were the Aussi guys. We heard of some horror stories going through the canal.

In pitch darkness we reached our mooring in the man made Lake of Gatun, and rafted next to sailboat Squander to consume a pre home made lasagne accompanied with a few beers. A short night followed with the new advisor arriving at 6.30am the following morning to lead us the rest of the way through Pedro Miguel locks followed by the Miraflores locks. Francisco was the new pilot who had been aboard the Australian boat the day before, extremely knowledgeable and relaxed. The day went by without incident; the heat was intense so it was important to keep everyone well hydrated.

It was quite an amazing experience to watch how this canal operates. Kara thought it was fascinating to watch the lock gates close and see the water rise up, when you suddenly feel like you are on top of a hill looking down.

In contrast to the Suez Canal, which we transited last May, the Panama process was far more intricate, costly and laborious. But it was worth it, to achieve yet another milestone in our voyage. Thanks to everyone involved for helping us take our floating home safely back to the Pacific Ocean. Soon we will move north to Costa Rica.
Just an interesting anecdote: While on the Atlantic side of the canal, we were 26 meters above sea level, this will have been the highest place Magnum has ever been above sea level.