Overnight, the summer sun deserted us, and transformed into winter cold, as we approached Glacier Country. Definitely rum weather! Franz Josef was the first of the 2 glaciers we visited. Nowhere else can boast this natual wonder, so close to the sea. As you drive towards the glacier, there are marks showing where the glacier was at specific periods of time. Af Franz Josef we walked to the viewing point, that advised not to go any further without a guide but we hiked on anyway, away from the masses, picking our way through the large mostly dry boulders. We ran into the Swiss family we had met in Okarito, and they pointed us to the hidden track that would lead to the mouth of the glacier. The tour guides keep it hidden, since its typically a track used for guided tours only. Kara as usual was a champ, climbing up the rain showered ladders unaided. You really begin to feel like you have entered the wilderness, but then the drum of chopper blades vibrates from above in 10 minute intervals. We met a guided tour of 50 people, what on earth are they thinking?
Further down the road at about 25km, is Fox Glacier. For this one, we took a 2 hour hike to a viewing deck through a narrow forested track. On that particular day, visibility was sketchy and rain threatened overhead. But the trail was pleasant and finally we arrived at the tiny viewing deck to the sight of the spectacular glacier which was partially covered in cloud;almost blinding white emanating a bright blue spectrum. We asked the one guy there to take a picture of us three, and after some mumbling he reluctantly agreed to grace us with the favor, since he had a bus to catch. That was dear of him. Miraculously, the blanket of white cloud began to dissipate directly over the glacier and it continued to divide until the entire glacier was revealed. As usual our timing was impeccable. Even the mumbling pommy stayed on to capture the sight. After a few minutes the curtain of cloud crept back again. We could even see some trekers resembling ants hiking down the ice, but we didn't have the gear for such a hike.
On our return the rain began to fall more generously and it continued to do so over the next few days as we drove through Haast and on to Lake Wanaka, where we stayed for only one night. It was quite touristy and well, we are not too big on lakes. But we did visit Puzzleworld which was a fun experience for Kara and us too. You have to find your way along a 1.5 km maze of passages to discover the 4 towers at each corner. We must have walked about 4km in our search. I think I'd still be there trying to find the exit, had I not followed close on Uwe and Kara's heels. There is also an indoor illusion world with many creative displays designed to confuse your sense of perspective. By the time we reached Queenstown, it felt as though we were in the dead of winter (most unusual we were told), we were absolutely frozen. Now if there was ever a poster resort town for New Zealand,Queenstown would surely be it. Its a ski destination in winter, but it has endless ways of attracting the dollar both winter and summer. We couldn't find a camping ground and so we pulled into the worst camper van park we have experienced. In fact the only thing differentiating it from a parking lot was the addition of miniscule toilet and shower cubicles. You could also take the breath of your closest neighbor, who happened to be the crew of Bess, so Kara had her little friend Eliza to play with for a few hours. There is a Gondola right behind the park, that hoists you up to the summit overlooking the town, so we succumbed to the lure of the tourist trap and took a ride up high. So Queenstown was worth the visit for that I guess, and the spicy Thai coconut soup that we had been so craving to warm us up.
Milford Sound almost did not happen for us. We agreed not to go unless the weather was somewhat clear. We veered cose to there to a place called Te Anua in the hope that it would, and it did. And we're glad, since it turned out to be yet another big highlight. The drive alone from Te Anau to Milford was by far the most inspirational drives one could hope for. The curving mountainous road is such an astounding, breathtaking journey. To be so close to such hight snow capped mountain peaks, cascading waterfalls at every turn, zero development,only sandflies and campervans, is thoroughly unique, if not a little frustrating since you have to stop at every turn to take pictures.
At Milford Sound, we took a boat out to the famous fiords to the entrance of the Tasman Sea. You are told not to expect clear skies, but not a trace of cloud could be seen through the maze of sandflies. As we chatted to the boats' captain (who allowed Kara to sit in his chair) he told us that its similarily spectacular even in the pouring rain as the waterfalls amass down with such great velocity. The boat gets real close to the seals as they sunbathe on the rocks, undeterred by the snapping cameras. Yep, this will surely remain without doubt, one of the highlights of the trip. On our way back, about 20km from Milford, we discovered yet another cool campground, about 8km down a dirt road in the Hollyford Valley, called Gunn's Camp.Its nestled right beside a little river. We love coming upon these quaint non commercial little spots. It had a little personal museum with little artifacts and tales from earlier times in the valley and is operated as a charitable trust. The following day, we decided it was time for a vigorous hike up to one of the summits. There's an area called "The Divide" where you can hike up along the Routeburn track to key summit, to a subalpine plateaux. It was a busy trail and at the end turned into a steep zig zag. Poor Kara declared that her little legs could take her no further. But as other hikers began to descend, they oohed and aahed and marvelled at how strong and brave this little girl was to climb so far and so high. It gave her just the momentum that she required and she began to run to the top. It was well worth arriving to the top of the alpine bog, and also views of Lake Marian. We almost lost Uwe at the top of the mountain. He took off for a 5 minute walk to another lookout, while Kara and I rested and waited for his return. Almost an hour later, still no sign of Uwe, the wind and the cold forced us to move down the track asking others if they had seen him. We assumed he had taken one of his shortcuts, which he is notorious for, but we worried all the same. Eventually, we saw him running toward us, red and puffing. I ran ahead down the track back to the van by myself, to burn off the steam that had accumulated around my ears.
We are hoping the weather will co-operate for our next destination, the bottom of New Zealand: Stewart Island. Above picture of the Happy Travellers was taken on the boat to Milford Sound.