We set off on Monday from Belle Ile sailing on another great broad reach, NE toward Quiberon. The Gulf of Morbihan was the destination which is a large inland sea (50 square miles) fed by rIvers. It is however shallow in many parts and has a narrow entrance through which the tide runs at ferocious rates. Timing of entry is therefore important. Although I had timed it carefully for us to arrive at slack water, on the way there, we unexpectedly experienced strong tide against us. Although this didn't matter much it contradicted the chart information, which although not absolutely accurate doesn't vary by 2-3knots! We were at spring tides and some advice existed suggesting that entering the Gulf was not advised at Springs unless you were familiar. My doubts got the better of me when on the approach we had depth readings of 1.2M when we should have 5M over chart datum. That would have us hitting the ground in places which was not worth the risk. Since we were sailing at over 6 knots at the time, while I was trying to figure what was wrong Yvonne called for the sail to be reduced; good shout! Genoa rolled in and headed offshore soon bobbing along at 2 knots while we had some lunch and decided what to do next.
Although I was quite looking forward to exploring the Gulf of M realised this was not the time, so set off for a short fast sail, 10 miles out to the Island of Houat.
As you see above this is a paradise, an oddly shaped Island which provides sheltered anchorages almost regardless of wind direction. This is the bay at Eryoc'h, were we stayed secure for 6 nights. It is actually marked on the charts as a no anchoring zone, but we are learning that in France you don' t take these things seriously, they certainly don't!
We were completely charmed by the island on our first trip ashore but this was seriously soured by the incident with Vaila getting attacked and bitten by two massive brown dogs. I quickly dragged her away and Yvonne scared them off shouting, but they had drawn blood.
The two dogs were evidently protecting their territory, but big strong animals that could do a lot of damage to an adult never mind a child; certainly not something that would be tolerated at home. The most disgusting part of the incident was the reaction of the onlookers, and there were about a dozen,who to a man/ women visibly looked the other way and wanted nothing to do with it. Two men sitting in the bar lifted their drinks and walked indoors. As we retreated from the scene we were approached by an old woman who wanted to know what happened. Clearly this was a known issue and she set off to take up the matter. Unfortunately she had no English and our French is useless when it becomes animated and fast!
We were too shocked to hang around, but in the week since have made sure as many people as possible are aware of the danger. The dogs were no where to be seen later in the week, but Vaila stuck to the beach, apparently none the worse for the experience.
The weather had improved at last we managed to swim most days and the sun made some appearances, the winds remain very cold. From speaking to some of the local French and regular British visitors they are surprised at just how cold it still is.
This has been our first long spell at anchor. Now two weeks since we have been in a Marina. The boat is well prepared for independent living. We have had to run the engine to top the batteries a couple of times since fridge and lights, not to mention charging all the gadgets takes quite a few amps. We were surprised to find our water tanks are still 3/4 full despite daily showers etc and the diesel is still over half full since filled at Troon.
Continue South tomorrow, intention to stop at Ile d'Yeu on route to Les Sable-d'Olonne, but who knows.....