In a foreign land, upstream on the steamy, mangrove banked, bug clouded river the Colonel (Captain), sometime hero, has gone rogue. Here he's established his own fiefdom, no longer answering to orders, but through his own communication network, running his two bit town as if he owns it. Colonel's Kurtz's last stand? No, but Captain Norm Goldie, Brooklynite, former sport fishing captain and now self appointed archangel for cruisers visiting San Blas, sure makes me run an inner monologue in the tone of Martin Sheen's iconic voice over.
A short meeting holding court over Christmas Eve dinner only heightens the allusion. No Marlon Brando, but equally odd. Buzz cut, drooping, thick set, with too many gold ear rings and other bling, shorts and sloppy singlet, this man takes "off the beaten track, jungle chic" to an extreme.
Much debated throughout the sailing press, Capt. Norm was first described to us by an observant departing cruiser as "needy of being needed". Perfect. On VHF Channel 22 the Captain pushes his need. The bar at the entrance to Estuario de Pozo (San Blas's harbour) could surely be a real threat, especially if approached in southerlies or anything other than high tide, but Capt. Norm's radio theatrics, as he paces the beach directing each boat in, seem over blown and laced with self aggrandizement.
Yet local knowledge is invaluable, especially if tricky repairs or parts replacement are part of the layover. Capt. Norm's self told 40 year history in San Blas is full of aid and succor to locals and visitors alike. But self told histories have little resistance to myth making and so I'm torn.
That same sharp departing cruiser also quickly informed me that I had "an authority problem". Again she was not wrong, though I would prefer to call it a healthy disregard. So when Capt. Norm commands " That third boat there, Mandy, hard over to starboard or you'll be in serious trouble" my gut reaction is to turn off the radio and hold my course. His problem or mine? I guess we'll find out more when we leave San Blas over the bar, but in the meanwhile I'm planning a mission up the river with Wagner playing loudly.