Chacala, a small indent perfectly framed between jungle covered dark volcanic headlands is very beautiful. It is also decrepit. In spite of some very up-market housing development around the bay, the town, of one cobbled street and some dusty side roads, supports only one tiny store, a lavanderia and several ubiquitous beachside palapa restaurants. The tortilleria is closed, a sure sign of the economic struggle.
On a hike up through the forest to a Guayabana grove we trespassed down a private driveway to inspect a house we had admired from afar in the anchorage. On its multi-million dollar cliff top site, it was empty and unfinished. Returning down the hill we had a margarita at the six room Majahua Hotel. Hidden in the jungle above the perfect beach in concept this is a really high end exclusive resort. In reality it is very pleasing, peaceful, charming and a little decrepit.
We stayed a week in Chacala, comfortably beguiled by its run down charm. The same earthiness and world weary look that attracted us to our San Diego neighborhood of Del Dios kept us here. Although I don't think we recreate this in our own house or boat (others may disagree) the allure of the slightly down at the heel holds sway over the perfectly manicured. Here in Mexico that's all for the better, since, like Chacala, most everywhere is trying hard, but not yet finished.