When we planned our first six months at sea, we knew that it was the "crossings" that would most challenge our abilities and fortitude. Crossing the Gulf of California from Cabo San Lucas to San Blas on the Mexican mainland, crossing the infamous Gulf of Tehuantepec with its capricious high velocity winds and crossing over the river bar to enter Bahia del Sol in El Salvador would all be tests for us.

Two thousand, four hundred miles have gurgled under our hull since we set sail from San Diego in November 2008 and last Friday at high slack tide we turned Mandy to face the ten to fifteen foot waves breaking over the bar where the Estuario Jaltepeque meets the Pacific Ocean. We had anchored off the bar to await the prime crossing time when a guide from the peaceful bay beyond the surf would meet us to lead us in. We were three boats lined up; Tikka Too with Charlie and Erin aboard, us and Sidewinder with David and Suzi bringing up the rear.

We watched in rapt amazement/disbelief Tikka Too a Fisher 37 forged behind guide Rojelio's panga only to be apparently engulfed in fast moving huge surf. Only the cabin top was visible to us. Three massive waves caught Tikka Too and surged around her, forcing her to skew sideways, her steering wheel spun out of Charlie's hands. Several anxious minutes later we heard his exhilarated voice over Channel 16 letting us know they had had the ride of their lives.

We idled our engine as we waited for Rojelio to return for us. All our ports and hatches were battened down and we were clipped into the cockpit on our harnesses and life lines. Richard gave me a grim look as though to say, "Well it's too late now to change our minds." Out from the broiling surf burst the panga powered by its 75 horse power outboard. Rojelio approached us and asked what our top speed was. When we replied 5 knots he giggled and proceeded to get on his cell phone (to his buddies ashore to alert them to some entertainment afoot?) He instructed us to follow closely behind his boat. He moved several meters away from us and standing in his panga he studied the wave sets. At some unknown sign he spun his boat around and waved us in behind him.

Mandy bless her heart does not do anything very fast and this caper was no exception. As we entered the breakers Richard glanced at the speedo and shook his head. We had only reached 3.9 knots. The throttle was all the way forward. Just in time Mandy hitched up her skirts and dug in. we hit 6.2 k in the melee of twelve foot breakers. My only job was to hang on and watch out for fast breakers approaching behind that might overcome our little boat. Meanwhile Richard white knuckled it on the tiller and kept his eye on our fearless guide. As Mandy surged relentlessly down a wave towards her goal she was clocking 7.3 k. You go girl!

Some cruisers choose not to undergo this experience in order to reach the quiet anchorage of Bahia del Sol, however the fact is that there is a dearth of rest stops along the El Salvador coast. Bahia del Sol offers still waters, a cruiser friendly hotel with pool and discounted food and drinks and a boatyard for necessary maintenance. It is a safe place to leave your boat for trips inland across to Guatemala or through El Salvador.

So here we are! Richard was happily surprised at the way Mandy handled the crossing. Although low in the water (2-3 feet freeboard) she ploughed through the breakers like a pro and he never felt any undue stress on the tiller. We gained enough speed (finally) to stay ahead of the following wave sets, but we were most delighted by our guide who chose a safe and sure path into the haven beyond.

After all three boats were tied at the marina dock in front of the hotel and their occupants stopped high fiving and bouncing against one another, it was time for a beer and some reflection. The immigration authorities met us in face masks and we were asked to undergo a brief medical check for sign of influenza. Then we were checked in to the country without further ado. Now we are busy planning an inland trip to see some volcanoes and tropical forests and waterfalls in an area called Tacuba. Stay tuned for the next round.