We knew we were in the service of the Queen when, a full 60 miles from Ascension, we received a call from Ascension Radio on the VHF inquiring as to our ETA and if "all is well on board." It is rare to be able receive from such a distance and altogether unheard of to transmit...unless.... Our ETA was 2 am, Wednesday! Out went the warps off Shearwater's stern, pulling her back about a knot.

At about 5 am, after a wide-berthed rounding of the southern tip of Ascension, we made our way up the western side, still dark, only the ubiquitous lights of BBC, USAF, RAF, ARIANE, and Cable and Wireless. Amidst a good stiff wind and bumpy seas we made our way to the anchorage off Georgetown.

8:30 am Wednesday - anchor hits bottom, digs in well. The 'Royal Cargo' (I was reprimanded by some in far-off lands for using the "P" word ) up on deck for the first time, had withstood the rigors of their mid-Atlantic voyage.

Soon, a boat at high speed appeared with the veterinarian, Dr. Kaz, stethoscope in hand. A quick check and we were ushered ashore - the two Royals, their Caretaker and Skipper. Customs/Immigration, smartly at the ready, passports stamped, fees waived. Our driver, a Ms. Kaz, whisked us up to "The Residency". Extraordinary woman - five careers on the island: Veterinarian, Driver, Lawyer, Longshoreman, and yes, Rocket Scientist, monitoring the rocket launches of ARIANE and NASA!!

What a drive... the lavaesque town of Georgetown with its few historic old harbor buildings nestled amongst the newer, almost barracks-like, one storied affairs, sidewalks and gardens lined with black-crushed lava, hot, dry - four dormant volcanoes looming behind. Up, up a serpentine road we go, up into the lushness, the wetness, the cool clouds of Green Mountain at 2817 feet. At the top, "The Residency".

The Governor - in a meeting with the Crown Counsel...we waited. And then, there he was in his finest: socks, running suit, colorful stripped shirt and no hat - Mr. Colin Wells. Very warmly welcomed by the Governor, who immediately inquired where the ------- were. (Yes HE used the "P" word!!) Him seated now in a big, comfy chair very much befitting the ceremonial handover. We brought forth the royal felines. It was love at first sight, at least on the part of the Governor. Lots of "P" this and "P" that.

Then with a tip of his non-existence hat to my American status, we jumped aboard his snazzy LandRover, back down the serpentine path we went and, after depositing the Crown Counsel at home, snaked our way up and around the side of yet another volcano. Stopped, and there below us lay the long, the 'very' long American-built runway, able to amply welcome the NASA Shuttle back to earth should an emergency landing in the South-Atlantic be necessary. "Its so long", said the Governor, "that if you stand at one end you cant see the other end - curvature of the earth, you know." (Later, I snuck back and checked this out - he was right!)

Back up the serpentine path, "The Residency", Royal Mission accomplished, exhausted. We went to bed.

MAGIC OF ASCENSION - DAY TWO (hopefully tomorrow)

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