Our trip from Monterey was pretty easy, taking 20 hours in moderate swells. Southern California came on by degrees--at five miles an hour you notice things. Fields of phosphorescent beads on the surface (technically, dinoflagellates) threatened to ruin our night vision. A heavy dew on the deck that foretold warmer weather. A wildfire near Point Lopez that glowed dark red and diabolical and lit up its own smoke for hours as we passed slowly by. Dolphins in the half-moonlight. Even the seals are blonder. And in the morning, warm air that smelled like fresh laundry and on the radio, Coast Guard reports from Los Angeles.

We're resting here in pristine (except for the several kelp flies, easy to catch but readily replaced by others buzzing behind them), quiet, calm San Simeon Bay and on Friday we'll sail just 40 miles to Port San Luis.

Eric & Sarka