We took refuge from a small storm in the snug harbor at Oceanside. We motored quickly the fifty-two miles from Long Beach, passing Dana Point at sunset (on the radio we listened to reports of a fistfight on the docks as we went) and watching the clouds thicken from the north. I don't know how sailors of old managed without weather forecasting, because there was nothing whatsoever in the sky to tell us this storm was coming; I just happened to listen to the radio. And not wanting to roll around for a couple of days at anchor behind an oil island, we raced the storm (and beat it) to Oceanside. We got in during the foggy evening, passing aromatic bonfires on the breakwater and crayfish fisherman in their boats, casting nets with dimly glowing lightsticks on the floats. Two friendly harbor police checked us in and told us they could never live on a boat but to be sure to eat at Dominic's, whose owner is really from Italy.

The morning dawned very windy, blowing 35 knots from the northwest and bringing with it a steep swell that broke on the rocks and beaches with impressive force. Joggers complained about it, and the windsurfers looked like they were having a grand time until they fell and disappeared in the waves. The marina was calm and we showered and went for a stroll.

Oceanside is a military town--I guess there's a Marine base there--so the haircuts are $8 ("include neck shave"), you can get your uniform pressed on any streetcorner. In the restaurant where we gorged ourselves on a mighty American breakfast there was a mural depicting Oceanside's sweeping beach with tropical palm trees and two black helicopters and a grey F-16 wheeling above. The boys with the new haircuts looked pink and young and not very tough.

Somehow we managed to spend three nights in Oceanside. Between the Marine base and vacation condos, its identity as a surf destination--or really a town at all--remains a bit tenuous. There are bars on people's windows and a whole lot of signs offering great deals on apartments. I overheard the dreadlocked operator of the hip coffeeshop telling someone, "If I had a million dollars I wouldn't buy a house in Oceanside." Still and all, we enjoyed ourselves there and it was a good place to stay out of the weather.

When things calmed down we made haste for San Diego, where we would do our last provisioning prior to embarking for Mexico.