SOUTH MEXICO PACIFIC COAST
02 May 2016 | PALS ON THE BEACH
HUATULCO
We were in Huatulco for about 10 days. This is the first stop on our way back up the coast. When we passed this way three years ago, Vivien and Joel had recently decided to settle here and sell their boat. Now they are part of the community. Vivien has done an impressive job with the logistics of sending homeless dogs to Canada. This is all a volunteer effort and an airline provides the flights. Vivien co-ordinates passengers who act as escorts. Of course, there is a network of foster homes and veterinarians in Huatulco. Joel works on boats and is chief gardener for a community garden he organized in town.
We like these guys! So we enjoyed their company and friendship over dinners, happenings in town and getting to know some of their friends. We took a tourist kind of trip to Hagia Sophia, a rather unique horticultural site that is a demonstration, sustainable, organic garden for farming in that region. It was a beautiful site and a look into the mountains behind the coast. A cool highlight was swimming in a pristine waterfall pool! MEXICO ADVENTURES 2016 Photo gallery: Hagia Sophia, and HUATULCO.
We were readay to leave Huatulco on Saturday, 27 Feb, only to find the port was closed. You really can't see the ocean from the marina, so we were perturbed to be restricted. Talking to Port Captain, he advised against leaving, but said he could not chain us! Captain Dave said, 'let's go.' Another boat, Robert and Anika on Spunky decided the same. Talking to the Scuba Diver next door to the office, we were told which anchorage would be secure for the night. We had a little pas de deux at the diesel dock as Spunky and Kievit maneuvered in strong wind around the anchored dredging boat. Finally we were off and out of the breakwater plunging into deep wave troughs. It became apparent why the port was closed! We motored on for several hours and then tucked into Bahia Chachacual. Amazing calm! Had dinner on Kievit and lunch the next day on Spunky and lots of talk with Richard and Anika about sailing and the human condition. Kindred (younger) spirits, why we feel Dutch!
We stayed on Kievit for another day or so in the anchorage, when tour boats started arriving in calmer conditions for snorkeling, then we left. Anchored in some favorite spots from our trip down 3 years ago. Not so interesting this time, and there was a red tide hanging off the coast. A bit disappointing. We headed on to Puerto Angeles and had a delightful anchorage there. Only one other sail boat, but the harbor was very active with local fishing pangas. Captains revved up their 100+ hp engine and charged through the water and up on the beach till the boat STOPPED. Then the family gathered around to unload the fish. I could still be there just watching. We walked around the hilly town and bought vegies and ice. Had a nice meal with salad and didn't get sick, that was good too! Dave spent two and half hours scraping barnacles off prop. Another regular cruising activity in paradise.
PUERTO ESCONDIDO: 15 50N:97 052W
Next day, March 3, Ruby Fries' 18th birthday!, we motor sailed, very calm sea conditions to Escondido, which is a well known surfing town. There was no surf! That was very good for us to anchor and sleep well on a water bed.
Amazing during the day we passed through thousands of dolphins, two different times. These dolphins were feeding and none took time off to play with us and swim with the boat. In our experience this is odd. We also saw many turtles floating by. When the sea is calm, it is a great time to see sea wildlife. Really, we did a survey count and had to estimate thousand or more dolphins.
ACAPULCO 16 51N:97 05W
We left Escondido at 4:45 am, Friday, March 4, heading for Acapulco. Again, went through a swarm of thousands of dolphins and throughout the day saw many turtles. Such a pleasure! In the evening we had good wind for sailing for some hours. A sliver of orange moon, looking like a small boat, rose above the horizon about midnight. By daybreak the boat slowed down with a strong south flowing current. A sea breeze picked up about noon which helped us reach Puerto Marques/Acapulco about 4pm Saturday evening. Most of Sunday, next day, we enjoyed watching the activity on the beach. Marques is more of a local Mexican family beach than Acapulco and we were the only foreign cruising boat in the harbor. We had a nice meal at a beach restaurant and enjoyed talking with our waiter who had perfect English and came from Anaheim, CA.
On Monday morning we drove the boat over to the marina in Acapulco. Three days in Acapulco and it was all boat work in paradise! Very comfortable, too! Whenever possible, we have to get off the boat and walk. There was a beautiful infinity swimming pool at the top of the marina - no I didn't get photos! There we spent the first afternoon. Tuesday morning, we hiked out of marina and turned in the direction we did not go when there before. This area is the old and non-touristic part of town. The beaches just off the business streets, remind me of beaches on the Atlantic coast in the 1950's. (I was very young then!). We had intended to get new boat batteries before starting out this year before leaving El Salvador. We only got one new starting battery. Dave was concerned about the other working batteries not holding a charge and wanted new batteries if he could find them, but thinking they would not be available until Puerto Vallarta. On this walk, we stopped in a couple marine stores and found a source. Remember, this is Mexico. Within one hour, the marina store manager had the old batteries out and new ones in place. The batteries are very heavy and getting them removed and replaced was not a problem in Mexico, but has been an issue in the States! And, the batteries, not cheap, but not more expensive in Mexico. OK, I see I've written a long paragraph. Getting this job done was a big deal! The rest of the time in Acapulco we had to do some grocery provisioning, and a good grocery store was across the street from the marina. And for two days we had to hunker down and really enjoy terrific thunder storms and torrents of rain. Also take care of a few leaks on the boat. The only shower at this marina was the outdoor one at the fancy swimming pool. When we went there the last afternoon, as we swam, a bunch of guys drifted in with their music equipment. Before we got to the shower, these dudes where stipping down to their underwear and showering. As we left I asked, "que pasa?" (hoping they were going to play for a party & we could get in on it). They had driven in from far away, to do a photo shoot for an album cover- and needed to shower before they got dressed. We didn't shower with the boys! Next morning when Dave went to the bathroom in this area, he said their wet underwear was all over the floor.
Also, out on our dock, a movie was being shot for two days. There are a couple of photos of that in the gallery. Three years ago, we saw the cliff divers, the market and a terrific local history museum. Strange, this year, we are not tourists.
Before leaving Acapulco the next morning, Friday, March 11, we needed to fuel up. Every experience at the fuel dock is different, but this one! There was wind, big surge, meaning that finally we got the boat turned around as in backing rather than pulling into dock. Dave is driving the boat, I'm communicating in Spanish and sign with the dock guy, and unable to communicate with Dave, who is doing what he thinks. Oh my! Once tied up, the water surge pulled the boat back some feet before releasing and propelling her in a forward direction. In between surges, the boat was pressed by wind and waves against the dock, so that all the fenders were squished flat. Then, before gassing up, I had to take the papers into the office to get everything photo copied, while Dave was wondering what the hell....\. Dave filled the inboard tanks, which is always a tender operation because you don't want to spill diesel in the water - you know, environmentalists & all, and the boat was jerking in several directions. In order to pay, Dave had to go back to the office and some more photocopying. The one dock worker seemed to be relishing his power over us in directing the operation and requiring a lot of unnecessary paper work. Anyway, as we cleared the dock, pulling away, I thought; After the past 10 years of cruising and more years sailing (which always involves docking in unbelievable situations) I'm not even close to an anxiety attack! Believe me, docking in general and particularly at unknown fuel docks, should not be an emergency situation. Yet, it often feels like one! (Variety of stories could be told at this point!)