The improvement in weather prompted our move from our snug beach, and we settled under the cliffs at Propriano, in a bay just outside the marina. Our main objective, to renew our 3G Internet account in an Orange shop (if we could find one!). Our luck was out, the nearest shop being in Ajaccio some 85 kilometers away. Maybe lucky some would say! We hired a car and had a spectacular day trip back to Ajaccio through the mountains. The French Telecom are continuing to frustrate us, their food and wine are continuing to impress us.

Loaded with 3G credit and eager to explore, we motored the short distance across from Propriano, to the beautiful little bay of Campomoro for a few days of fine weather and dinghy exploring throughout the multitude of rocky inlets.

The cold now was making its presence known, and we were starting to feel the drop in both air and water temperature over the past couple of week. While we continued to take our early morning plunges into the sea, the time spent in was much shorter, the hot showers after now being the best part of the experience.

The west Corsican coastline has been gorgeous with many small inlets and bays to visit. We did discover a hidden, secluded little bay called Cala Di Conca, but unfortunately it was already “two yachts full” - One of the drawbacks of a big catamaran - more swing room needed than with a monohull.
Tizzano, on the beach, was another pretty overnight stay but not good for the south westerly blow predicted, the same being for a lot anchorages along the south west coast of Corsica. Our sail to the protection of Port De Pianotolli Caldarello, some 30 miles away, was wet, uncomfortable with 40 knots on the nose and short, sharp seas. A relief to get to port before dusk, but a surprise to find there was very little room to anchor, and very few attractions. Sometimes those little spots on the chart that appear romantic, aren’t what they seem.

The wind was now only 10 – 15 knots so next day we sailed around to the pretty, little bay at Ventilegne. What a delightful, secluded area. Three days here all by ourselves, exploring in the tender, and walking the nearby inlet. The south-west blow was still threatening, and time to move on. We found our way to Cala Di Paragnanu (Paragnono), just 3 nautical miles west of Bonifacio. What a beautiful and protected anchorage. The surrounding area spectacular, with lots of places to explore, lots of walking to be done. The beaches, second to none, unfortunately too cold to bask in the sun. On a walk up the mountain with the huge cross atop, we were surprised to find a wonderful little church just below the peak. Rugged country seems to go with blistered heels, but well worth the climb up, then the rocky, coastal walk back to our sheltered cove.

Bonifacio around the corner - what a highlight this was. The town, the sea caves, the surrounding cliffs.– what a fascinating place and by far the most spectacular walled city that we had visited.

It was time eventually to depart our haven, Paragnono; in fact time to depart Corsica (until we meet again). The morning sail along the coast, from Bonifacio to the southern tip, was a sight we will never forget. A spectacle of light and color in the early morning quiet, and so amazing to see the buildings of the walled city, perched on, and built into the cliff face and overhanging cliffs. Not to be missed if you are visiting Corsica. A great farewell gift from this island we had fallen in love with.

We motored the 18 nautical miles across to Palau, on the northern end of Sardinia – No wind to speak of, the sea like a mill pond, the islands and mainland fascinating around us.

Palau proved to be a very busy ferry terminal, connecting the tourist Island of La Maddalena with the mainland. We, however, have found a beautiful little inlet, Cala Di Villamarina, at the southern end of San Stefano Island, very close to both Palau and La Maddalena. This tiny harbour, the site of a disused stone quarry, has a magnificent statue of Chino (some say it is Garibaldi ), carved from pink granite, in the nearby quarry - and just a short walk up the hill.

It has been interesting each time we log our new position onto Google Earth. Many of the little inlets we have chosen to anchor in, show quite a number of boats. For the last two months we have rarely had another boat around, rarely seen another soul in some places. So Yes, it is getting cooler, almost too cold at times, but how wonderful to explore this part of the world and have these usually busy places all to ourselves!

So Chow for now, from Mat Lau.