Taiohai and Hakaui
18 October 2016 | Nuku Hiva
We had a very short stay in Fatu Hiva but it was delightful. I never dreamed that I would come back there. It is the most dramatic and isolated of the Marquesas Islands and one can only get there by boat. The voyage is not an easy one. But it is worth every bump, kabooom and discomfort. We had a great meal cooked by a couple on the village for us. Poisson cru, mouton au lait de coco, rice, grilled chicken and fried bananas. They also gave us a stalk of bananas and a few pumplemousse but Felipe had to climb the tree to get it. We sailed to Nuku Hiva with a stop to sleep on the Island of Tahuata. Another amazing place but we didn't have time to explore. Early morning we lifteded anchor and motored for the first 2 hours as we were on the lee of the ilsand. The forecast was for 5 to 8 knots of wind from the North, not good for us. The forecast was so wrong, to our advantage, and we had winds from 15 to 19 knots, from the NE and Mauliola just glided in pretty flat seas, It was a delightful sailing day and by 2PM we were safely anchored in Nuku Hiva. On Saturday we went very early to the farmers market to get fresh provisions. The abundance of fruit and fish is such a contrast with the low atolls of the Tuamotus. Here we buy everything locally grown in the rich soils of the Island. The Marquesans are very friendly and gentil. We feel welcomed and cared for. We came back to the boat with a load of papayas, bananas, limes, pumplemousse, fish, and vegetables. After the market we rented a car and drove to the village of Hatiheu to visit the Marae and to have lunch at Ivone's. She is a lovely lady whose great great grandmother was a queen of Nuku Hiva. Ivone has a small museum where artifacts of the old times are kept in display. I have been there before but I enjoyed even more the second visit. It was very specail to see Ivone again, with the same welcoming and motherly smile and hug. Hatiheu is looking even better now. Actually everything in Nuku Hiva looks better and cleaner. This afternoon we motored 6 miles to another majestic valley, Hakaui. Tomorrow we will hike to the waterfall and will see if the couple we met when we were here 4 years ago are still around. I hope I can post this via radio as there is no internet here in the valley. Aloha to all.