Well, I have been here in Neiafu for almost a week and I think it's time for some of my impressions and thoughts. Firstly, it is great to have an anchorage that is not rolly. The town of Neiafu is ths the main centre for the Va'vau group if islands in the Kingdom of Tonga. The harbour is deep and the majority of yachts take advantage of the moorings that are available to rent. There are about 30 yachts and boats in here, the majority from New Zealand and the rest a mixture of American, European and Australian and a couple of other Canadian boats.

I had an interesting arrival on the customs dock, for as I approached, I saw another yacht on the quay with a familiar shape and name. Heatwave. This was the boat belonging to a friend with whom we had cruised parts of the Caribbean, Panama canal and Tobago Islands some 30 years ago. I had last seen Bob in San Diego at the end of last year. The present (and third) owners of Heatwave are from the South Island of New Zealand and were most interested in their boat's former "life". I met a friend of theirs, also a Kiwi who has his own boat here in the harbour. Simon and I hit it off and hung out on and off over the next days until he flew back home to NZ today. Through Simon I met a few other NEw Zealanders on their boats and they have been very friendly and hospitable to this "solo sailor".

Clearing in with the authorities went smoothly but slowly as they believe the more forms that need to be filled in the 'better'. I had to go and find a bank machine to draw out some cash (Tongan dollars called Paanga or TOP) to pay for the quarantine/Health inspection. After paying this the official gave me a 'hand' of bananas and I was officially cleared in. Nice touch.

One of the couples I met have a lightweight racer/cruiser that they sailed up from NZ. It is a wooden (Cedar) boat with quite a reputation as a racer. One of the waterfront restaurants here sponsors a Friday evening fun race in the harbour, and I was lucky enough to get a crew spot on Excel for the race the day after I arrived. There were only 3 boats in the race, all very different. We could not match the speed of the 50 footers we were against after the first lap, so we came in third but collected some prizes for just showing up. The next day I intended to explore the town but instead spent some time doing some minor repairs to my inflatable dingy and catching up on sleep and rest.

When I did venture ashore, I found a quaint mix of small stores and waterfront restaurants/bars etc. It was strange after 3 months in French Polynesia to hear and be able to converse in English. The Tongan language, well I may need to stay here a couple of years for that.

I quickly found the local cafe/internet/gathering spot that caters to yachties and backpackers etc. and had to reaquaint myself with the NZ lingo for various coffees. "Flat white, long black...?!"

The Ha'apai group of islands here consists of many island clustered in a 15x25 mile area with numerous anchorages. There is a cruiser radio net at 8.30 each morning which is a unique mix of chat, buy/sell/swap, crew wanted/boat wanted, community announcements, and then the pertinent commercial services that are of interest to sailors each get a chance to give a spiel and remind cruisers what they offer, who has what on for happy hour/entertainment, where to buy your sausages etc etc. Very useful. Yesterday under the lost and found, a lady asked people who might be visiting a certain anchorage to be on the lookout for her companions glass eye (left) which had been dislodged when she slapped him a bit too hard on his back when he was choking! The radio net controller, when he could regain his composure asked everyone to 'keep an eye out..."

I have had a variety of tasks on the boat to attend to, as well as catch up with "business" with internet access ashore, but I am feeling restless and need a change of scenery now and will likely head off to a new anchorage tomorrow. The wind is back to the SE again tomorrow after a trough passed through and had the wind do a slow 360 deg rotation. One of the pleasures here is how relatively cool the evenings are so instead of tossing on top of a sheet perspiring, I'm pulling a sheet and even light blanket over myself at night. Bliss.

I have frequented the local market here and stocked up on some fresh veg (very limited choice) and eggs. (The radio net told me they were arriving on the ferry last night). There is a fellow who "rows" his dingy around the harbour in the morning with one oar. Gotta get that sympathy flowing. He sells overpriced bread. When on his second visit I told him I don't eat bread/wheat he was only at a loss for words for around 5 seconds before he shot back that his bread has no wheat in it. Oh, and did I have any spare rope I could give him. Ah, there is one in every port.

I discovered a local FM radio station here in the harbour. The only problem is that I have yet to hear them play any music that is not from the 80's or broadcast any international news. The local news is actually just announcements about a forthcoming talent contest of where you can get the latest fashion garments. Talking about fashion, one does see the long fabric skirts being worn by the men and on Saturday I saw a lot of locals in town with the large woven mats which they wrap around their bodies (over their clothing) and tie with a rope around their middle. It turned out they were attending a funeral at the Catholic church.

Well, that's the news from me for now. Another early night so I can be alert when the 40 roosters begin their dawn chorus well before dawn tomorrow.