We set off late afternoon from Fulaga for a calm overnight motor sail to Matuku, a stopping point in the southern Koro Sea of Fiji. The excitement began shortly after our departure. Firstly our autopilot did not want to behave. Our buddy boat Four Seasons witnessed Mazu's dance as our course dipped from port to starboard. Thankfully unplugging the remote switch seemed to correct it so we didn't have to hand steer all through the night. As we rounded the island we saw a pod of very large dolphins, the first we have seen in the South Pacific. Beautiful and majestic. Darkness filled in and the only sights were the comforting navigation lights of our buddy boats Four Seasons to our starboard and Meccetroy to our port.

By midnight the following winds built to 20-25kts escalating with a couple tropical rain squalls. We had a near close encounter with Meccetroy during which our engine failed to start. It was too dark and bumpy to attempt to bypass the starter until morning. We were prepared to sail into the pass to Matuku with the guide of a buddy dinghy to power us through the currents but fortunately Mazu's motor started after Peter turned the battery switch off and on again. Phew! I won't be fooled into believing that a calm overnight passage is a reality. The wind continued to howl for the next few days forcing us to keep our anchor down and explore Matuku.

Matuku is very green with rain forest jungle covering the narrow valleys and steep hillsides up to the rocky peaks. There are 7 seaside villages scattered around the island including Lomati with its 40 residence where we were anchored. During our sevusevu ceremony we learned that the villagers were emulating Fulaga by offering a host family to welcome each boat. Being that much closer to the main island the standard of life in Matuku is more advanced than Fulaga. Here the homes have furniture, electric stoves, plenty of fresh water and a supply boat every two weeks.

We had lemon grass tea with our new host family Sikeli and Tokasa and purchased some potatoes and onions from the little shed they call a store. Sikeli, with his machete clearing the path, lead us on a leisurely walk to the next village an hour away over the crest of a hill and down the other side. In the neighboring village we all tried out a tree swing one of the kids was demonstrating and the boys inspected the main generator and solar battery system that the kept the village with power. We admired the sandy beach and reef protected waters. On the walk back Sikeli effortlessly climbed a coconut tree, tossed down coconuts, then after a swift slash of his machete offered them to us to drink the delicious water. Here we were standing at the top of a hill with our new found friends, coconut water dribbling down our chins, overlooking the bay where our 3 boats were swaying in the wind and watching the waves crash against the surrounding reef. What a sight. What an experience.

The next day Sikeli offered to take us in a long boat to circumnavigate the island within the reef and to show us their prized and unique tree which reportedly produces several different types of fruit. After the boat ride we would set off to climb to the peak of Mount Karovava, one of the peaks towering high above the village.

Swaying in the wind is a bit of an understatement for our boats clinging to their anchors. The steady 20-25kts was manageable but the katabatic winds funneling between the narrow valleys hit the boats like a train speeding by. This random sudden healing over made sleeping, cooking and just standing up difficult, an unusual condition when at anchor. In the morning the consensus was to call off the boat ride and head off for the hike in the shelter of the trees.

The hike was fantastic. Geared up in our good gripping shoes we climbed over the soft forest floor clinging to roots and vines and narrow trunks of trees for support. Our guide, in his bare feet, carried his machete in one hand and a rope to help pull us up the steep bits in another. On route he sliced a thick overhead vine in half showing us the drinkable water that flowed from it. When Jude with her recently replaced hip couldn't climb any further he made her a cushion of ferns to sit on a log and wait for us. We tasted a mysterious nut from one of the trees and stepped over potato looking tubers. The steeper it got the more we relied on the strong exposed roots for both hand and foot grips. At the rocky peak we clung to the rope and braced our feet against the few remaining wind swept shrubs. At the summit we could see over the bay and the pass to the west as well as to the waves crashing over the windward reef to the east. Our names were inscribed on the short list kept in a jar nestled in a shrub. We snacked on the freshly baked cream buns that Tokasa sent with us. To me the descent is more difficult than the ascent. I was relieved that my face was so close to my tightly gripping hands and solid ground searching feet that my eyes didn't wander down to notice the height. Before long we were back in the trees whilst just as steep doesn't have the vertiginous effect. While some chose to slide down grasping for trees and roots as they came to them I found that the feet first technique saved my arms from being ripped out of their sockets from the whip lash of a sudden stop. I did have to be alert to dodge the random rock slides from the person above me though.

Back in the village we were treated with more freshly opened coconuts to drink and a lovely luncheon prepared by the ladies. Our generous hosts presented us with bottles of fresh virgin coconut oil and hand woven baskets overflowing with bok choy, tomatoes, chillies, bananas, papaya, limes and lemon grass from their gardens.

The strong winds were forecast to subsiding to 15-20kts for only one day so it was time we prepared for our next passage. Yes another overnighter to look forward to.