14 May 2013 | Little Grand Cay
06 May 2013 | Green Turtle Cay
30 April 2013 | Marsh Harbor
24 April 2013 | Marsh Harbor
21 April 2013 | Hope Town, Elbow Cay, Bahamas
11 April 2013 | Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera
16 March 2013 | Volleyball Beach, Georgetown, Exumas
19 February 2013 | Nassau, Bahamas
16 February 2013 | Nassau, Bahamas
24 January 2013 | Wellington, FL
04 December 2012 | Cocoa, FL
28 November 2012 | St. Augustine, FL
27 November 2012 | St. Augustine, FL
22 November 2012 | St. Mary's Georgia
19 November 2012 | St. Simon's, GA
14 November 2012 | Hilton Head Island
03 November 2012 | Onslow Beach Bride, NC
29 October 2012 | Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC
Back in Communication
14 May 2013 | Little Grand Cay
Sunny, wind from the north dry
May 7 to May 14
After fueling and filling, we left Green Turtle Cay for the quick ride over to Manjack Cay. We had remembered this as a favorite from 9 years ago. It turned out to even better than we remembered! It was known as a private island, so no one went ashore. Well, little did we realize that the owners have a sign that says “Trespassers welcome”! These people own 20 acres and the rest is a preserve. They live completely off the grid and are very ingenious. They have cleared 3 wonderful paths around the island. The walk out to the ocean beach was magical. It twisted and turned and came complete with whimsical signs letting you know you were still on target. Someone is very creative using driftwood, coconuts, etc.
We met a couple who hailed us because of our boat name. They had a Meltemi a while back and thought they were the only ones. It was interesting chatting with them about multihulls (they have a cat now but used to own a trimarran). They also had up to date info on “connectivity”, so we took notes. At high tide we took a long dinghy ride through the mangrove to a lagoon where the owners keep 4 or 5 boats. On top of working to survive, gardening, building pathways, etc, they buy and restore boats to sell. Guess that’s where their cash comes from. The area had a ton of random boat “stuff”—props, anchors, oars, cleats, blocks, etc, etc. Really quite impressive.
Our next stop was also a revisit: Powell Cay. We had great expectations; this time it was a let down. The beach seemed much grassier and had lots of trash. We had “caught” our first conch here and this time it seemed barren. Oh well, it was still pretty and very comfortable. We also took a dinghy ride across the Sea of Abaco to Cooperstown. This is a off the beaten track, TYPICAL Bahamian settlement. That means small, quite run down, with lots of boarded windows and missing shingles, lots of men hanging around, and not much else. It was really sad, but the people were friendly; chatted with an older guy who’d caught a bunch of grunts off the shore and a huge permit off the dock. It was nice to be able to make this trip due to our new motor. It would have been too far and slow with the old 5 hp.
On Friday we sailed over to a new spot: Allans-Pensacola. This is another uninhabited cay with a few paths forged by other cruisers. They are marked with flotsam and jetsam—old floats, buoys, milk crates, plastic buckets etc. The amount of trash is amazing. It is virtually all plastic—indestructible! You wouldn’t believe how many shoes we see!!! The wind built quite heavily and Jeff got to play good Samaritan; a young couple on an older cruising boat had rowed to shore in an inflatable and were gone for hours (wonder what they were up to?). Jeff zipped over and towed them to their boat; they were very grateful. The beach here was ironshore and not user friendly, so next day we sailed across the Sea of Abaco to Foxtown. This is another isolated settlement on the eastern tip of Little Abaco. Pretty much the end of the line. Getting into the anchorage was quite tricky with rocky cays galore. The wind was favorable though, so we anchored and felt very secure. This town was also pretty rough. But again, the people are great. Chatted with a man at the gas station and he was friendly and knowledgeable. The little grocery store had what I needed—box milk and tomatoes. You guys can’t fathom the lack of food choice here. Basically all the stores have is sugar, rice, oil, tinned meat and dried beans. The staple filler here is called peas and rice; it is pigeon peas, like black eyed peas, with white rice and sometimes tomatoes added. I think they brown the rice in oil first because it is brownish when done. Season with lots of hot sauce. At restaurants, you’ll also get coleslaw and mac and cheese, which they make like baked ziti, in a flat pan and dry not saucy. Any protein you order is fried. There are a fair number of overweight people here.
Later that day we were buying fuel and I chatted with the man filling his outboard with gas. I asked him about all the young men hanging around. He paused and then said that they all want the fastbuck. That means fishing; they would rather go out one day and make $500, than get a job for 5 days and make the same. I asked about the young women’s view of this; he shrugged and said “they look the other way”. As elsewhere, everyone was friendly and we chatted with 2 young women and a toddler and they were great. He did say all the girls graduate high school, but most of the boys don’t.
After all these short jumps, it was great to sail 30 miles to Double Breasted Cays. These were absolutely gorgeous. The anchorage is like a ring around a small, sandy cay. The water is very shallow; so shallow, that Jeff was standing on the sand to scrub the bottom!! There was only room for 4 boats there. I got brave and tried our new motor; started right up, but boy, it’s fast. Looking forward to putting it on a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) for added stability. Another great place for exploring by dinghy. We used our look bucket to search for conch (no luck), and saw turtles and needle fish. There was very little coral around.
Another short hop brought us to Little Grand Cay. This was a stop recommend by a dockmaster at Green Turtle who was raised here. It is a big sport fishing mecca. There is a marina full of uber expensive fishing boats and 2 sailboats anchored. We went to visit Randall’s grandma and conveyed his love to her. Obviously in a town of maybe 100 folks, everyone knows everyone. Darlene offered us a ride in her golf cart since it was so hot. Just nice people. We ate at the restaurant at the marina, Rosie’s Place (Rosie being Roosevelt). The waitress had a pierced tongue; I said, “I don’t think you got that done here” and she laughed and said she went to Freeport to get it done. Oh, the inconvenience of living on a little island!
Strangely enough, this little place has wi-fi, so I will send this today, Tuesday May 14. Next time I update things, we will be in Florida. We expect to leave here tomorrow about noon and will cross the Little Bahama Bank for 50 miles, then jump into the Atlantic and pick up the Gulf Stream. With any luck this should bring us to Fernandina Beach, FL by Friday noon. We will leave the boat in Brunswick, GA for the hurricane season and drive home.
It’s been another great trip. Waking up every day saying “Wow, what a beautiful day”. Meeting interesting cruisers and friendly locals. Honing our sailing skills. Living with less and enjoying it more. We are both looking forward to spending time with family and friends and enjoying the other summer activities at home that we usually forego in favor of sailing.
06 May 2013 | Green Turtle Cay
May 1 through May 6
Once we got our package from UPS we booked it out of Marsh Harbor. Today we had a slightly longer trip, about 22 miles. As usual, we were able to sail the whole way—still amazes us!!! We opted to anchor off the settlement of New Plymouth, founded circa 1786. This is a Loyalist settlement from the Revolutionary War times. Walking through the village we saw little change from 9 years ago. There was however, some hurricane damage from Sandy. Reconnected with several boats here and had a great time.
The highlight was the Island Roots Heritage Festival. We were here for the first annual one, 9 years ago. It has really grown now. There were craftsman booths, food booths, films, contests and entertainment. As always, the Royal Bahamian Defense Band put on quite a show. The drum major was quite a character and really loved his job! Lunch was a lobster tail with the usual Bahamian “sides” of peas and rice, mac ‘n cheese, and coleslaw. Jeff and I headed back to boat to rest before the evening’s schedule of bands. Just as we were getting ready to dinghy back, we looked south and saw a waterspout. The scene was fascinating; the spout was very wide and made a funnel down to the horizon, then it got sucked upwards, then it reformed. You can see it on You Tube; look for Green Turtle Cay tornado, 5/3/13 and choose the 11 minute video. Some friends in the other anchorage were much closer and saw debris swirling around their boats. They were on mooring and had their engines running. Wow!
Next day, the weather continued unsettled with big cloud banks building up, torrential downpours, then sunshine. We managed to get to the festival and see some great music from legend Eddie Minnis and then the highlight, the Junkanoo “rush”. This is a parade typically held at New Year’s to chase out the evil spirit from the previous year and start with a clean slate. There are mardi gras type costumes with lots of sparkles and feathers and the “music” is a primitive percussion beat of drums, whistles and bells. Tons of fun.
On Sunday, lots of folks took off. There were many land visitors from Key West, Green Turtle’s sister city, as well as natives of Green Turtle who return for the fun. Weather was still unsettled with more heavy, occasional rain; most boaters took off this morning, Monday. We are waiting for the tide to rise and then we’ll go fill up with fuel and water; this is most likely our last opportunity til we reach the US. Later this afternoon we’ll head to Manjack Cay for some quiet time and hopefully some snorkeling tomorrow once the sea has settled down from all the storms. I took a long walk into town and the beach. Jeff went to the bank, which is only open 2 days a week for 4 hours per day. We then went over to the Leeward Yacht Club on Black Sound for lunch. A couple from FL invited us to join them. They were self professed “crackers” and big time hunters. We got an hour full of a hunter’s travelogue. Very interesting people who happen to own property here. It’s in a nice area and is available to rent!
30 April 2013 | Marsh Harbor
Overcast, squalls expected
April 20 to April 30
The big change in Marsh Harbor from 9 years ago is the new supermarket. What used to be Solomons apparently had a fire and was re built and upgraded to the current Maxwell’s. They had an excellent array of products and prices about typical for the Bahamas. We also got to the bank which open every day here! Batelco was another story! Again, the clerk did not want to make an exchange without the box; we got her manager to approve it and walked out with a phone. By the time we got to the boat, it wasn’t working! Next day Jeff went back and they switched SIM cards and all is finally good. While walking in town he said, “ Let’s go back to Batelco, I don’t like this blue phone”; His idea of perverse humor!! We enjoyed eating with Dolphin, Nina and Adrian, whose homeport is Warwick, RI. Adrian was the victim of a lion fish sting; yikes, it looked awful, tho he claimed it was much improved. Stay away from this invasive species. And if you decide to go spearfishing, make sure your tip has a barb on it. His did not, and the fish slid off as they were putting in their bucket.
We finally did it—we bought the 15 hp outboard. A nice chat with the Yamaha dealer convinced Jeff that it was ok to go with the “enduro”, non-US version. Also, the one we’d ordered in Hope Town was not due in til June 13. On Thursday, we headed over to Man O War Cay. This time we got a mooring right in front of the marina, next to our friends on Running Free, a Freedom cat/ketch. This cay is unique in that it is dry and inhabited by descendants of British loyalists from the Revolutionary War. There is a lot of in-breeding and their accent is unusual; they also are the least friendly people we’ve met in the Bahamas. A “hello” is met with a somber face and a one finger wave (no, not that finger). There are some very nice shops however!! Three of us girls went shopping in the afternoon and left a few hundred dollars on the island. I took a really long walk the next day and discovered a new harbor. Spoke with a man from Texas who owned a cottage on the shore, along with a Hinckley yacht and a center console boat. Got the navigation instructions in case we ever want to go there.
On Friday we headed over to Great Guana Cay which also is little changed from our previous trip. We took a long walk on the ocean side and circled back through the Orchid Bay Resort. There are about a dozen “cottages” in there; they are unbelievably pretty and landscaped to the nth degree. The resort actually has a nursery on the property with gorgeous plants. Around here they grow asparagus ferns and wandering jew plants as ground covers and borders, not as house plants like we do at home. We went to Grabbers for sundowners and met Randy and Mary from “Emme”. The rum punch here was really good. We got a tour of Emme, a 40 ft Ta Shiba; wow, what a boat!! And of course, since it was Sunday, we all headed to Nipper’s for the famous pig roast. Walking from the dock we met some more cruisers. Turns out that one of them is a long time friend of Jeff’s brother Jack!! Bill and Jack belong to the same ski club and he even was at the same 70th birthday party we attended in Cotati, CA. There were a lot of people there and we never did meet until we got to the Bahamas. Another long beach walk after lunch took us to the north end of Great Guana and up to another small resort. While everyone else headed to Green Turtle Cay, Meltemi headed back to Marsh Harbor.
Jeff went ashore and picked up the new outboard. It is very “lively”!! We stowed the old 5hp til we can sell it and are using the new one. We took a spin around Marsh Harbor and had a blast. We also checked on our UPS package which is another reason for returning here. The sage goes on; I called a UPS number that was no good, but got another number. Was then told the package was being held in Nassau because there was $$ due. Got that arranged and the package was released; so, we are supposed to get it today. We’ll wait and see. This includes Jeff’s medication and his old US cell phone which we mailed to Ryan in mid March. Between the 2 way freight and duty, we could have bought an iPhone!! Plus, we have been notified that the package was damaged. Only 100 miles from home, but it is still a developing country!
Hope Town to Marsh Harbor
24 April 2013 | Marsh Harbor
Dry and sunny, light breeze
April 14 through April 20
Little Harbor was PERFECT: no heeling, 6+ knots and we caught a fish! Well, a barracuda; it was a good 2 feet long and nice and silvery, but they are the biggest bearers of ciguatera, a bacterial infection that is really not good for humans. So, we had to get rid of it. The teeth were impressive! Entering through Little Harbor Bar was no big deal, and we anchored at Lynyrd Cay, a beautiful shallow anchorage with good shelling beaches. We took a day trip to Little Harbor itself, home to the famous Pete’s Pub and the brass foundry/shop. We had been here last trip and not much changed, but the restaurant was expanded. The food was terrific but much pricier than 9 years ago. It was very still in the harbor so we went back to a new spot at Lynyrd.
We were anxious to snorkel at the Sandy Cay National Park moorings, but just like our last trip it was too rolly for snorkeling. We anchored off Tilloo Cay and took a nice walk and looked for shells. Next morning we sailed on jib only up to Hope Town and got a mooring. We reconnected with our friends Bob and Brenda on Pandora.
Hope Town is very little different from our last visit except for the new Hope Town Inn and Marina. We had stayed at this place and it was primitive at best. Now it is gorgeous! Beautiful suites, which we toured thanks to a guest we met; he turned out to be from North Attleboro and knew 2 guys Jeff worked with back in the ‘80s! There are 2 pools, a beach bar, restaurant, etc. and a very attentive staff. If you buy a Coke, you can use the facilities; what a deal!!
We rented a golf cart with Bob and Brenda and toured Elbow Cay including Tahiti Beach, White Sound and another new resort, Firefly. This place had a great sunset viewing spot so we returned for dinner. The clouds blocked the green flash, but it was still a beautiful evening. I took lots of long walks through the village and out to the point. This place has lots of residents and visitors but the bank is only open 1 day a week as well as our friends at Batelco. We attended Mass under the cork tree at the library on the dock. Very spiritual site for prayer. The priest has to come over on the ferry from Marsh Harbor. Since we needed money, water and the phone fix, we headed out Sunday afternoon for the quick trip to Marsh Harbor where we anchored.
Rainy Day in Hope Town
21 April 2013 | Hope Town, Elbow Cay, Bahamas
As you can see from above, we have moved on from Eleuthera to the Southern Abacos. But let me finish my update from April 11.
April 11 through April 13
To finish our Eleuthera story, we rented a car with Teddie and Brian from Indian Summer. The woman at Dingles was quite reserved and truly appalled that we expected to park her 25 year old car by the side of the road that night. We said, “that’s what they asked us to do in Long Island” and she rolled her eyes and said “thy’re very different there” (a phrase that was pregnant with meaning). Teddie and I walked up to the Laundromat with our carts and waited and waited for it to open. Several nice locals called the owner, but no answer. We finally decided to go back to Dingles and use their washer lady service. This turned out great; it only cost a dollar a load more and we picked it up all folded and super dry.
We spent a lot of time our first day trying to replace our newly acquired, quickly busted phone at the Batleco offices on the island. The way this company operates is unbelievable. So, the local store in Rock Sound determines that , yes, your phone is busted, after having put in a new battery and tested some things on the computer. But, no, we can’t give you a new one ‘cause we don’t have any. Okay, let’s try some other stores on the island, we say, very American-like. Since we were there, we asked about buying a SIM card for our Verizon Wifi hot spot device. This office thought we could do it and even graciously sold us a one day card and installed it. However, no joy. Our friend Brian said there is some software on our computer that needs to be disabled in order for this set up to work, but he couldn’t remember how to do it. Nice try!
Off we go up the long, skinny island of Eleuthera, stopping at scenic towns and every Batelco on island. Next Batelco, no phones, so we wisely ask “can we exchange for another phone?”. “Oh yes, only if you have the original packaging”. Right, boaters get rid of trash at every opportunity. Anyway, they didn’t have the next 5 least expensive phones available! We finally decided to just sightsee!! And buy booze!! The very quaint town of Governors Harbor along with Cupid Key was just the spot. They had a fabulous liquor store with almost US prices. Great wine selection and beer was ONLY $36 a case as opposed to $50 everywhere else. All this technology stress got us hungry, so off we drove to Tippy’s on the Atlantic coast. It was a lovely spot with tiki huts, a beach and great food.
The next day we vowed to avoid technology. Only problem was, Brian left his iPad on the seat of his dinghy—you should have seen the panic in hill was well, tho. Then Jeff begs for one more quick Bateloc moment; that was fruitless, except when he got in the car he sat on our laptop. We now have a image of his ass on our screen. Next stop was the market. It was quite large by island standards and we bought some frozen lamb chops. The produce was very disappointing though. We ran into Rick and Carla from Euphoria and agreed to meet for breakfast at Sammy’s the next day.
We drove north again and passed the silo country where they had once raised cattle here. The silos were built of cinderblock. The Glass Window is a natural arch between the Atlantic and Exuma Sound. It was low tide, but the rush of water was still impressive. This spot had been painted by Winslow Home in 186? when it was still a natural arch. A hurricane finally wiped it out and it is now a cement road. Next stop was the tip of the island, Current Cut. Many cruisers were very intimidated by this, but compared to Wood’s Hole it was a piece of cake. Heading south, we stopped at Hatchet Bay for a refreshment at Twins where we met Naj, a terribly nice Haitian woman who was the bartender. We promised to return for dinner the next night. Brian and Teddie also reconnected with a young cruiser they had met along the way.
Further down the road we ate a late lunch at Laughing Lizard. This café cum art studio cum garden shop was a real treat. The benches were old surfboards and the flowers were beautiful. When we got to Tarpum Bay, there were two docks where fisherman were cleaning, packaging and selling their catch. We tried really hard to buy a Nassau grouped, but they were all big and the fisherman convinced us to buy a triggerfish. It was actually very good, but it almost looked like an overgrown tropical fish. I never would have thought it edible, but my fishing guidebook calmed me down!
After breakfast the next day, where I had the best grits of my life, we headed off to Current Cut and Spanish Wells. The run to the Cut was a motorsail and the Cut itself was no problem, but we did see 10.6 kts on the SOG. After we turned north, we had a beautiful sail all the way to Spanish Wells. We had to take a dock because the 5 moorings were taken and the channel is super narrow and packed with commercial fishing boats. The marina was a rather sad affair but safe enough. We took a walk and talked to the Yamaha dealer about the outboard—again. A golf cart ride took us to the north shore beach which was beautiful. Another quick grocery stop and we felt that we’d seen it all. The people here are mostly white with that odd accent and not very outgoing at all. Since the weather was favorable for the passage to the Abacos, we left the next afternoon for Royal Island where we spent the night with about 20 other boats. Most of us left at daylight and headed to the Egg Island cut. The going was slow and sloppy there, but after a quick 30 minutes of engine work we were on a beautiful starboard tack all the way to Little Harbor.
catching up again
11 April 2013 | Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera
Susan, hot and humid
March 22 to April 1
We wound up spending 3 weeks in Georgetown, Exumas. The weather here was great and the "northers" settled down, so the anchoring was smooth. There were several days though when a dinghy ride to town was out of the question. We have been seriously researching buying a bigger dinghy motor. They still sell 2 stroke motors here and they are much cheaper and lighter, plus no tax!
We finally received our replacement SSB receiver and Hallejulah IT WORKS!! We immediately left town for Long Island (not NY); we had to motor the whole way but it was beautiful. Twenty feet deep and we were taking pictures of the starfish on the bottom!
Long Island has been our favorite place so far. We went to the Anglican Church on Palm Sunday and met so many people. The islanders, black and white, are very enthusiastic worshippers. The sign of peace involve hugging everyone in the church. Between that and the priest's thunderous sermon, mass took almost 2 hours. But next day when we went shopping, we saw our new friends working in town and had something to share.
We shared a car with Brenda and Glen from Young at Heart and saw so much. Started with lunch at Max's Conch Shack where the owner had just found a conch pearl worth $7,500!! It was opaque coral in color and an oval shape; very pretty. Met a neat couple who were scouting out property for an artists' retreat. She is a silversmith/jeweler and he is a musician. We plan on visiting them near Washington on our way home.
There is a famous Bahamian called Father Jerome; he started life as an architect, became an Anglican priest, then converted to a Catholic priest. We visited 2 churches he built on opposite hills in Clarence Town. After touring the Catholic Church we waved to a man in the office. He came out to greet us and I said, "You're an American" to which he replied, "Yes, I'm from Providence, RI". Jeff and I cracked up! Turns out he is close friends with Jacques Plante, our pastor in Providence. What a small world. On top of that, there was a gorgeous 60 foot, navy sloop in the harbor; it belongs to St. George's School in Middletown, RI.
Next morning we continued our tour by driving the worst road any of us had been on, up to the Columbus Monument. The view was unbelievable; I wonder how Chris didn't crash on the rocky, reef ringed shore. Then we visited a sheep farm with artist's studio. ( Everyone here has at least 2 jobs.)
Turns out these were the folks Fr. Doug had hooked us up with for Easter Mass. We chatted for the entire 40 minute drive to and from church. The Catholics were more reserved than the Anglicans, but still very huggy!
There were 2 beach parties organized by cruisers where we met lots of nice people and gathered great info about other locales and boat stuff in general. The nearby resort also had Happy Hour on Fridays which we attended twice; I even learned how to weave a coconut palm basket!! Attended the local fundraising fish fry, walked to 2 different ocean beaches, and just had a ball.
April 1 to April 4
Four boats had been friendly at Thompson Bay and we took off together for Conception Island. It is an uninhabited nature preserve. Someone thought we looked like ducklings trailing mama duck and from then on we hailed each other on the radio as "ducks in a row". Had a gorgeous SAIL to the anchorage. We beach walked, hunted for sea beans, swam and snorkeled. That night we had a fabulous pot luck on Meltemi. MMMM good. The next day the dinghy's took off for the turtle nursery in a giant mangrove. We saw dozens of young green turtles and a small reef shark. The baby turtles were shy, of course, and they were FAST!! Just a beautiful experience. Some of us snorkeled and found a dozen giant conch, but we voted to leave them be since it was a nature preserve. Squalls were predicted for the next evening so we took off for Cat Island.
April 4 to April 7
Getting four captains to agree about where to shelter for the night was pretty interesting! We had the usual assortment of one very conservative guy, one who trusted his skills and equipment, one novice who would follow the majority and one who wouldn't take a stance! I'll let you guess where Jeff placed!
Naturally, after all this debate, worry and radio-ing, there were no squalls! We walked up the highest point in the Bahamas, 206 ft above sea level, to visit the Hermitage. It was built by Fr. Jerome as his monastery/retreat/retirement home. Thing is, he started building it at age 60, alone, on a hill made of "ironstone", a hard, craggy limestone. Pretty amazing and quite beautiful. Jeff and I walked thru the village, actually, they are called settlements, and met Lula. She ran a beach shack where she served meals cooked over a wood fire and also baked pies. As a single mother, she supported 3 kids to become a policeman in Nassau, a schoolteacher, and her last is in law school. AMAZING!! We sat around a homemade picnic table watching her cook, chatting and drinking a cold Kalik. The chicken was fantastic and she made the best peas and rice we've had so far. Of course, her secret ingredient is lots of oil!!
We said goodbye to one of the ducks--Spartina with Phil and Sarah on board. Sarah had been our resident marine biologist plus long time Bahamas cruiser, so we learned a lot from her. We will be seeing them this summer at there home near St. Michael's, MD. The rest of us took off for Little San Salvador. I wasn't expecting much, as we'd been told the island had been taken over by Carnival Cruises, as their "private" island. Well, it was actually very beautiful and since there was no ship in, we had the run of the place. For anyone who isn't fortunate enough to do what we're doing, it sure would be a terrific stop on a cruise. The sand was like powdered sugar, the water a perfect teal green and thee were colorful cabanas, lots of rest room, showers, walking paths, horseback riding and more. Really lovely. In the morning a ship did arrive and we saw the tourists arriving on the tenders. We took off for Eleuthera and a harbor called Rock Sound (scary huh?)
April 7 to April 11
Well, Rock Sound is totally sandy but it is shoal, so you do need to be careful. Now we are down to us and Indian Summer, a couple who've only been sailing for 6 months. Eleuthera is a very long island and there are lots of settlements, so we opted to rent a car again.