The Spanish Rias to Lisbon
26 September 2020
Peter Cariss (edited by Donna Cariss)

We weighed anchor and set off for a Cabedelo marina, half way to Porto. It didn't really warrant a mention but was a safe haven for the night after a terribly uncomfortable day on the Ocean, with massive swells and 20 knots plus of wind on the nose. We had to traverse the waves at a forty degree angle as the slamming was so bad, but this added time onto the journey. Once inside the marina, it was time for dinner and straight to bed, in preparation for a very early departure for Porto, next morning. On route we had a pod of dolphins, about 30 to 40 strong, playing around the boat for about 20 minutes, which provided a great photo opportunity. Tiger Tim has always wanted to visit Porto so he helmed the boat into the river and motored the mile to Douro marina. To say we were disappointed was an understatement. It wasn't picturesque at all. We met Ted there, who had driven down from La Rochelle to take the boat to Lisbon with me as it was time for Tim to return home. So, it was a night on the tiles for the 3 Amigos once more. We went to an area known for its fish restaurants and had sea bass and brill with all the trimmings, oh and a few beers!!! The morning after, we walked up river the 3 miles to the bridge where the old town is. This is the Porto everyone talks about; beautiful. We were really pleased to have seen it and wouldn't hesitate to return for a long weekend. However, time was running out and Tim had to be at the airport for 1545 and we needed to provision the boat. The 3 amigos were now down to 2 but after mourning the loss of Tim and before his bones were cold, the 2 remaining amigos went back on the lash, Tim who? We couldn't have too much though as it was an early start, next day, for the 67 mile trip to Figueira da Foz. The weather was not looking too good; 20 knots plus on the nose forecast for the afternoon, so made haste. Once out of the river, the dolphins were around again for most of the morning. We ate an orange and walnut salad for lunch before the weather, which never materialised, was due to kick in. There wasn't much in Figuiera da Foz but we managed a few beers and to provision the boat. Next day we left at 0900, as we had to wait to hand back the key for the gate and headed for Peniche, some 60 miles south. This place was worth a visit and had many beautiful fish restaurants along the high street. Ted and I shared a seafood platter consisting of bream, salmon, swordfish, sardines, lobster and giant prawns; delicious. Our next port of call was Cascais, 47 miles in strong northerlies, allowing us to goose wing down the coast. At last some real sailing with the winds touching 25 knots and a reef in the main and genoa. It was exhilarating. Previously, the winds had predominantly been on the nose and added to the Atlantic current and relentless swell, things had been uncomfortable, tiring and frustrating. We arrived at Cascais at 1415 and checked into the reception pontoon. This is another beautiful place and nothing like the rest of Portugal we had seen so far. No high rise buildings, just thoughtful, low-lying ones and very pretty. The old town has many bars and restaurants and has a bit of a cosmopolitan feel to it. At last Ted found the piri piri chicken he'd been after and he wasn't at all disappointed. We followed it with a couple of beers, before returning to the boat for a glass of port and bed. It had been a long day but tomorrow we will stay here and relax.