The Costa Del Sol
03 September 2021
Donna Cariss
After a lazy start, we headed to a lovely bar, for soft drinks before lunch. The toilets were amazing, when zen like music playing and lovey scents. You could have had a peaceful nap on the baby change table. Tim went to the gents and disappeared for 15 minutes. Had he fallen asleep? We headed back to the boat for a quick lunch and started the engine at 1430, having decided not to drop into the fuel berth in Gib to fill up cheaply and buy booze in the duty free shop there. We hadn't used enough fuel to make it worthwhile and we didn't have a need for spirits on board. It had been blowing hard all morning, pinning the boat against the pontoon but eased just before we left, making departure much easier. We skirted the exclusion zone, off the end of the runway and raised the foresail only, as a strong wind was expected at Europa point (southern tip of Gib). We wove our way in and out of the ships at anchor and approached the point. The wind was around 16 knots at the point, so nowhere near what was expected. Once we were clear, Sarah took the helm for the first time and not on an easy point of sail. The wind ws almost directly behind us, making it difficult to avoid a gibe. The wind dropped, making it even more difficult but then picked up and came round onto the beam, giving Sarah her first taste od helming with power in the sails. She did a great job. The wind was on the edge of us needing a reef in but we didn't have too far to go so carried on. We were 'racing' a big racing yacht called Godspeed. They must have wondered how a 37 foot Westerly was matching their pace. They came across the stern and we notice that their mainsail had a big rip in it. They had obviously pushed it too hard somewhere. We arrived on the reception pontoon at La Duquesa at 1835. Pete went to check in and pay and came back with a 'free' bottle of wine with the marina label on it. Staff from the marina were going to meet us at the berth, which has lazy lines and stern to mooring. They even provided us with a plank for transitting from the boat to the harbourside and vice versa. Duquesa marina is situated in the middle of a new apartment complex, with lots of restaurants. We were advised to head into Castillo la Duquesa (the old town) to eat but it was getting late and Tim was struggling a bit, so we went and got ripped off with rubbish food, high prices but a lovely view, in an Italian restaurant. The following morning we provisioned at the little supermarket, which had a wealth of English brands, including Yorkshire tea. Pete and then walked down to the old town to pick up a few bits that weren't available in Arkwright's. The old town was very pretty and quiet and would have been a great place to eat authentic Spanish food. We left Duquesa at 1205, for the 5 mile trip to Estapona but anchored en route to spend the afternoon swimming and listening to music on the boat. The water was cold, a product of the Atlantic current. A bit of hard swimming was required to keep warm in the water. We stayed in for quite a while, having acknowledge that we probably wouldn't get in for a second dip. It was a relaxing and enjoyable afternoon and we didn't set off again until 5.20pm, arriving to more lazy lines at Estapona and another bottle of the wine, which we now knew to be just about drinkable. We didn't make the effort to walk down the coast to the old town in Estapona either but ate at a taverna off the main strip. There was no menu, just a display cabinet of food to select from. The boys went in to order and overdid it by at least a couple of dishes, if not more. The bill was extortionate in comparison with the tapas bar in La Linea and the food was nowhere as good. We decided to eat on board for the next few nights. Estapona's high rise hotels were not for us.
Next stop was due to be Marbella, avoiding Peurto Banus, Peurto Deportivo and heading to Bajadillo, the old fishing port. However, the wind got up and we were having a great time sailing, albeit tacking out to sea and back in along the coast. The starboard tack was especially exhilarating. We opted to carry on towards Fuengirola. We didn't get that far. The wind died just before the headland. We were in a beautiful bay, with little houses and occasional beach bars and we decided to drop anchor. It was warmer here for swimming but there was a strong current, so we put 2 lines out the back with fenders on, just in case anyone couldn't make it back to the boat. I swam a lap round the boat, 29 strokes to get to the bow and 9 to return to the stern. You could literally swim on the spot behind the boat. We decided to stay here overnight, so Pete inflated the dinghy, for the first time this year and we rowed ashore for a drink. One drink led to another and then to eating, despite having food on board. The experience was just so enchanting. Tim and I both had mussels. We returned to the boat before dark, put the anchor light on and had a drink in the cockpit, playing music and looking at the view onshore. All was very calm, with no wind expected overnight, or the next few days. We retired for the night and went off to sleep very quickly. I awoke just before 3.30am and had to run to the loo. Must have been a bad mussel. It seemed Tim was similarly affected. The boat was also rocking in a swell. Perhaps the fishing fleet was out. The rocking continued for the rest of the night and that was the end of sleep and comfort. We left early, under engine, to escape the rocking but had to anchor in another bay, so I could complete my supervised antigen test at 10am. The rocking here wasn't quite so bad but we were underway again as soon as my negative result had come through. We saw a bait ball, with many fish, birds diving and dolphins jumping, in the distance but didn't change course to get a closer look. We passed by Fuengirola, a monstrosity of wall to wall high rise hotels. We were happy not to spend a night there. Sarah went below to lie down, feeling a bit tired and queasy and missed the dolphins, on approach to Benalmadena. It wasn't a close encounter, as a catamaran was following them and we couldn't get very near. We hadn't pre-booked a berth in Benalmadena, that not being something we would usually do. However, they managed to squeeze us in as we were staying for 3 nights, until Sarah and I fly home from Malaga. We were surprised to see lazy lines here too. The marina is quite old and surrounded by an apartment and shopping complex. Some of it was reasonably nice but some of it extremely tacky. However, it was also cheap, at €30 a night. No free wine this time though! Time to catch up on washing, before a shower. We would be eating on board tonight, so went out around the marina for a cocktail beforehand. Another evening was spent on board, with Spotify and the Bose speaker.
Thursday was a day to clean the boat and avoid the sun. We did a bit of shopping for food and drink, including buying a bottle of Domaine Pontefract, a rose from Provence. Late afternoon, we headed to the beach intending to have a dip but there was a foot high ring of seaweed along the shoreline and more in the water, the beach was crowded and there were tab ends in the sand. Not our cup of tea, so we headed to the showers and Sarah and I spent an hour drinking the rose on a bench under the palm trees opposite the boat. Pete did a great job as waiter. Eventually, Tim returned from the shower, probably half an hour after us ladies and he hadn't even had a shave. Dinner on board was a long, drawn out affair, starting with cheese and jamon crisps. We followed with a warm chicken and bacon salad, with new potatoes and garlic croutons. About 2 hours later, we hit the shop bought tiramasu. It was a lovely, relaxed final evening, listening to tunes, singing and getting slightly tipsy.
Friday, our final day, dawned hot and sticky, as usual. First job was to strip the beds and get the washing done. By 11.30 the boat looked like a chinese laundry. Next job was to provision the boat for Pete's and Tim's onward journey, so more lugging of heavy loads in hot weather. Just after 2pm, we headed over to a popular looking bar and restaurant by the dinghy sailing school, well away from the tourist strip. We ordered a jug of sangria, which was very refreshing, sitting in the shade. We noted that the place was frequented only by the locals, so decided to order a late lunch - 2 types of croquettas, followed by a meat paella and a seafood paella, accompanied by a bottle of Albarino. It was good but there was far too much and we took away doggy bags, which the boys will have for supper and probably for lunch tomorrow too. Just time now to bring in the washing, finish packing, complete this blog, before showering and changing for our journey to the airport.
We have had some great times over the last 3 weeks, as well as some trying times. The places we have visited have varied greatly and we now know that the Costa Del Sol is not for us, the Algarve is pretty but too many tourists and the places in between are fabulous, authentic Spain, where the locals live and holiday, away from the madding crowds. Top of our list is Ayamonte, with Rota and Chipiona vying for second place. La Linea was also a pleasant surprise.
May Pete and Tim enjoy their continuing sail to the Mar Menor.