Born of the Sea

Preparing for a phased retirement on the sea. Muirgen (Gaelic for 'born of the sea')

14 May 2024 | Union Island, SVG
10 May 2024 | Mayreau, Grenadines
09 May 2024 | Tobago Cays, Grenadines
07 May 2024 | Mayreau, Grenadines
05 May 2024 | Mustique, Grenadines
02 May 2024 | Baliceaux, Grenadines
01 May 2024 | Bequia, SVG
22 April 2024 | Saint Vincent
15 April 2024 | Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia
08 April 2024 | Saint Lucia National Parks
06 April 2024 | Rodney Bay / Gros Islet, Saint Lucia
31 March 2024 | Sainte Anne, Martinique
13 March 2024 | Iles des Saintes
10 March 2024 | Deshaies, Guadeloupe
03 March 2024 | Monserrat to Guadeloupe
02 March 2024 | Monserrat

Saint Lucia - Part 2

15 April 2024 | Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia
Donna Cariss
Monday 8th April was the day of the solar eclipse but we were just too far south to catch any of it, which was a shame.
We decided that we needed to visit Marigot Bay, after seeing it from the viewpoint yesterday but that would mean that we missed our weather window for the passage to Saint Vincent. There wasn't another window for a while, so we extended our stay in Rodney Bay marina by 2 nights first. With stiff legs, from the climb up Gros Piton, we hobbled round to see Nigel and Veronica, on Novara, get a tour, exchange info on anchorages and do a big book swap. Veronica had her sewing machine out and was making chaps for their dinghy.
On Tuesday, at 8am, we listened to the final cruiser net, the decision having been taken to end it as most people had gone home. It was a shame as it was a good source of weather information. We had pancakes for breakfast, paid up at the marina and had a coffee at The Corner, where they triple charged Pete, such that we had to return later to have them rectify their mistake. After lunch, we walker downtown to Dax for a final beer, our legs aching less today and went to Massey's for provisions. A bottle of duty free gin, EC 19.99, was purchased from the Market Place, at the marina and then we swam to cool off. When I returned from my shower, Pete was on board the catamaran opposite, getting information on Saint Vincent, the Grenadines and Grenada from Robin, a professional skipper. At 7pm, we met up with Nigel and Veronica for dinner, before saying goodbye and promising to keep in touch. They were going north, as they had an appointment to do some voluntary work, for their project, in Dominica but would be heading south again later.
On Wednesday we were going south to Marigot Bay, a distance of around 10 miles. We slipped our lines at 0825 hours, left the marina, via the dredged channel and motored around the headland before raising both sails. The wind was light and fluky, as we crossed the next bay, so I was helming and pinching up when I could, to get around the next headland. After that, the wind picked up, so the autohelm went on and we sailed at up to 8 knots, with a good current behind us and the wind coming round more on the beam, which is what Muirgen likes. Half a mile out from the entrance to Marigot Bay, we dropped the sails and called the marina on channel 12. Pete tried again as we entered the bay and again as we approached the mooring buoys inside the bay. There was no answer, so we picked up mooring buoy number 1 ourselves and then called the office on the phone to check that was ok. We had a beautiful view, from the cockpit, of a little beach, with palm trees; idyllic. Having dropped the dinghy in to the water, we rowed ashore and checked in at the marina office. Mandy, who Pete had spoken to on the phone and Vicky, were really lovely girls. They set up an account for us and said to pay when we decided to leave and they told us about the offer at the hotel, where we could spend the day, all inclusive, for US$70 per person. The hotel looked beautiful and as a 5 star, expensive. From the dinghy dock, we took the free water taxi across the bay, beyond our little sand beach, to Doolittle's, a bar and restaurant belonging to the Marigot Beach and Dive Resort. We had a couple of drinks there before taking the water taxi back and then rowing back to the boat. There we watched a lot of boats, mostly World Arc boats, arriving on the dock or on the buoys. It turned out that they were gathering for their final dinner and the parade of sail to the finish line by Pigeon Island, Rodney Bay, on Saturday, having completed their circumnavigation. At 5pm, we headed to Chateau Mygo for happy hour. 2 Mai Tai's for around £6; bargain. With the wind gone and being very close to shore, we completed our mosquito prep, before bed. That requires hatches shut or with nets, spraying round the inside of the boat and letting the toxic stuff clear before going back inside to sleep.
Thursday morning, we decided to treat ourselves and spend the day at the Zoetry Marigot Bay Resort. Mandy added the cost to our bill and gave us armbands to wear and then we headed down the pontoon and through the gate to the hotel. First stop was breakfast, with waitress service; eggs benedict for Pete and pancakes with maple syrup and fresh fruit for me. With tea / coffee, juice / smoothy, we totted up over $50 between us. From the restaurant, we could see a small swimming pool below us, complete with waterfall and the edge of an infinity pool above and to the left of us. We headed up a level. All beds around the pool were already taken or reserved but we found ourselves a very comfortable pod on the other side of the swim up bar, which would be in the shade by midday. I went for a swim and was the only person in the pool other than the people at the bar. After a good few lengths, I took my place at the bar, with the jacuzzi bubbling around me and ordered a bucks fizz. I waved to Pete, on the other side and he soon joined me. We passed the time reading and sipping drinks and taking the occasional dip. Lunch was served either by the pool or in the Hurricane Hole, back down by the dock. We fancied table service, so dried off, donned clothes and went to the restaurant. We managed 3 courses, all small but delicious and I had cherry sangria, which was very refreshing. The restaurant wasn't cheap and we clocked up $70 each, including the drinks. The fee for the day was becoming extremely good value. Back at the hotel pool, after another swim, we had cocktails at the swim up bar. There we met Lewis and his girlfiend, Dave and also the ladies from the World Arc. Just before we had to leave, we ordered some fish tacos (a snack), just to ensure we didn't need to have tea. At 5pm, we had to leave. It was a shame but we had had our money's worth and a great day. Pete seemed to have some trouble getting back in the dinghy but he managed to row us back to the boat, where we watched a beautiful sunset through the palm trees on our beach.
Friday, having checked the weather and booked a buoy at Anse des Pitons, with Jahleel, we spent the day reading on board. I finished 'The Thursday Murder Club', which I enjoyed immensely. I hadn't realised it was written by the same Richard Osman as the compare on QI XL! We showered at the marina and returned to Chateau Mygo for happy hour. I tried to Amaretto Sour this time; very tasty. We chatted to a trainee accountant from London, for a while. Joanna, Caroline and Ric video called me from Leeds, which was lovely. Then two men from Romania, who were leaving their yacht in Marigot Bay for the hurricane season beckoned us over to chat. Claude and Radish (definitely not spelled correctly) insisted on buying us dinner, to prolong the evening. We tried to pay our share but Claude was having none of it. It was a hot and humid night, with lots of rain, requiring the hatches to be closed.
Overnight, the water pump kept running, suggesting that we have a leak from the fresh water system. The bilges showed no sign of water though. All the ARC yachts were dressed and ready for their parade of sail and there was a party feel on the dock when we went to pay our bill and clear out with customs and immigration. We were told off for not hving completed our deprture notification on SailClear and it cost us EC 125 to clear out, making Saint Lucia the most expensive island to clear in and out of, so far. We left the mooring at 0940 hurs and both sails were up 15 minutes later but after another 15 minutes, we dropped the main as it was going to be another downwind sail. The wind was up and down and came round on the bean again and a couple of times almost head to wind. 3 miles out, we were becalmed, so we rolled the foresail away and motored passed Soufriere, where we were acosted by a boat boy. We said we were booked in with Jahleel and he wished us well and went away. We messaged Jahleel to say we were on approach. The sea around Petit Piton was very confused and the wind 25 knots but we started to get shelter as we motored into the bay, where we were met by Jahleel. Pete helmed, for a change and I passed Jahleel our lines, so he could thread them through the buoy. The service cost us 70 EC, including the advance reservation fee. We were in another beautiful spot, looking onto Sugarbeach resort, with Petit Piton towering over us and Gros Piton to the south. Just before 5pm, the marine rangers came for their fee for the mooring buoy, another 54 EC or US$20. They were very friendly and said they would be patrolling overnight and were on channel 16, 24 hours a day if we had any concerns or issues. That was comforting to know, especially after the yacht alongside us left. In the evening, a couple of men came out to fish, right behind the boat but they had lights and didn't seem suspicious. They were there when we got up next morning, at first light too. It was a wet and windy night around the Pitons. Next morning, we had rainbows.


Comments
Vessel Name: Muirgen
Vessel Make/Model: Westerly Typhoon
Hailing Port: Hull
Crew: Donna and Peter Cariss
Muirgen's Photos - Main
No Photos
Created 1 April 2024
26 Photos
Created 22 March 2024
49 Photos
Created 22 March 2024
19 Photos
Created 22 March 2024
30 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
5 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
84 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
7 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
29 Photos
Created 4 February 2024
22 Photos
Created 4 February 2024
32 Photos
Created 24 January 2024
31 Photos
Created 24 January 2024
14 Photos
Created 27 December 2023
9 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
15 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
44 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
13 Photos
Created 9 August 2023
9 Photos
Created 9 August 2023
10 Photos
Created 9 August 2023
12 Photos
Created 9 August 2023
9 Photos
Created 19 July 2023
10 Photos
Created 19 July 2023
66 Photos
Created 14 July 2023
10 Photos
Created 14 July 2023
3 Photos
Created 24 May 2023
65 Photos
Created 20 September 2022
56 Photos
Created 9 July 2022
13 Photos
Created 7 July 2022
7 Photos
Created 18 April 2022
19 Photos
Created 3 April 2022
22 Photos
Created 3 April 2022
3 Photos
Created 10 September 2021
3 Photos
Created 10 September 2021
4 Photos
Created 2 October 2020
16 Photos
Created 26 September 2020
13 Photos
Created 23 September 2020
11 Photos
Created 27 August 2020
27 Photos
Created 25 August 2020
9 Photos
Created 25 August 2020
11 Photos
Created 18 August 2020
16 Photos
Created 15 August 2020
22 Photos
Created 15 August 2020
18 Photos
Created 10 August 2020
10 Photos
Created 7 August 2020
20 Photos
Created 3 August 2020
14 Photos
Created 3 August 2020
20 Photos
Created 27 July 2020
10 Photos
Created 26 July 2020
29 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
5 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
12 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
Photos of Muirgen preparations
8 Photos
Created 12 July 2020
39 Photos
Created 11 August 2017
52 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
35 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
10 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
26 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
4 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
13 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
14 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
5 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
10 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
6 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
13 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
30 Photos
Created 1 July 2017
15 Photos
Created 23 June 2017
Photos are limited as the weather was dreadful and was mostly a white out. Photos are from the phone as too wet to take the cameras.
10 Photos
Created 19 June 2017
9 Photos
Created 17 June 2017
11 Photos
Created 15 June 2017
17 Photos
Created 15 June 2017
The Beautiful Kvitsoy
5 Photos
Created 5 June 2017
Weekend with Hommersak Divers at Kvitsoy
8 Photos
Created 5 June 2017
13 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
Mad creatures
16 Photos
Created 29 May 2017
Getting to Norway and waiting for Donna to fly out
6 Photos
Created 18 May 2017
12 Photos
Created 6 December 2016
Buying Muirgen
6 Photos
Created 26 November 2016