Born of the Sea

Preparing for a phased retirement on the sea. Muirgen (Gaelic for 'born of the sea')

10 May 2025 | Boca del Toro
06 May 2025 | Linton Bay Marina, Panama
01 May 2025 | Linton Bay Marina and Panamarina
21 April 2025 | Linton Bay Marina, Panama
17 April 2025 | Linton Bay Marina, Panama
12 April 2025 | Linton Bay, Panama
08 April 2025
07 April 2025 | West Lemon Cays, San Blas
04 April 2025 | East Lemon Cays, San Blas, Panama
31 March 2025 | Holland Cays, San Blas - Banedup (Bug Island) and the Hot Tub
18 March 2025 | West Lemon Cays, San Blas
14 March 2025 | Linton Bay, Panama
11 March 2025 | Panama
09 March 2025 | Caribbean Sea - Colombia and Panama
06 March 2025 | Santa Marta, Colombia
26 February 2025 | Cartagena, Colombia
21 February 2025 | Santa Marta, Colombia
15 February 2025 | Minca, Colombia
11 February 2025 | Santa Marta, Colombia
08 February 2025 | Palomino, Colombia

Return to West Lemon Cays - Farewell San Blas

07 April 2025 | West Lemon Cays, San Blas
Donna Cariss | Variable
We were alone in West Lemons, other than the unattended catamaran further inside the lagoon. We had a swim to cool off, dried off and then a big, old, Canadian flagged boat came into the anchorage. They dropped anchor on our starboard side, a comfortable distance away, which we were pleased about as they only had a kedge anchor, 10 metres of chain and then just rope. We decided to take the dinghy across to the island with the beach bar, across the reef. It was a bit of a choppy ride and the swell was crashing up on the beach. We carried the dinghy a good way up the beach, so the surf wouldn't pick it up and then tied it to a rope on the beach. We ordered a drink and then food, lobster for Pete and a whole, deep-fried fish for me. Pete selected his own lobster from a crate that a Kuna dragged in from the reef. Just before the food arrived, we noticed that the Canadian yacht was moving. Pete borrowed some binoculars to watch what was happening. The yacht was re-anchoring, presumably after dragging its anchor. We kept an eye on it while we ate our food. There were too many fries and potatoes, so we had to leave some. We returned to Muirgen and indulged our carb comas.
Two German yachts arrived, anchoring one behind the other and south of the other, older yacht, Don Quixote. They were followed in by a charter catamaran, full of Texans, which anchored behind us. All was calm but we were expecting storms overnight again. The storm hit at 8.30pm, just as I was laying down to sleep. Pete was already snoring. There were some strong gusts, followed by torrential rain. It was only 10 minutes before we heard shouting and I jumped out of bed. Don Quixote was dragging its anchor again and was now south of the two German boats. How they hadn't hit either one, I don't know. Pete also got up to watch what was happening. The young man and woman on board managed to anchor again and everything went quiet. To be on the safe side, we put on our anchor drag alarm, although we were pretty confident that we wouldn't drag. However, all the boats were swinging a lot, which makes you nervous, so we didn't get much sleep until after 4am, when the wind dropped off. We slept late but not deeply and it was breezy and cloudy when we awoke. Nobody else had dragged anchor during the night. We noticed that Don Quixote now had a Bruce anchor down, in addition to the kedge. Bizarrely, he took the Bruce up again later in the day, leaving just the kedge again.
On Saturday afternoon we had a visit from Olaf & Moni(ca)), from one of the two German boats. They stayed for a quick beer and we talked sailing experiences but they had to leave to complete some repair jobs on board, having suffered damage on passage to San Blas. We agreed to meet in the bar around tea time, along with their friends. Meanwhile, a Kuna paid us a visit selling undersized lobsters, a small octopus and even a young turtle. Pete considered paying to release the turtle but figured that would only encourage the capture of more. It's not lobster season either and the quantity and size of the lobsters offered for sale was disgusting. We were quite upset by the incident and Pete made his feelings clear to the man.
At 5pm we headed for the bar. We waited for half an hour, then ordered food, deep-fried fish and fries, with coleslaw. Our food arrived just as the Germans arrived. They also ordered food and we apologised as we hadn't realised they planned to eat too. Michael and Jen were planning to go through the Panama Canal and Olaf and Moni were going to be their line handlers. They hoped that they would bump into us again, later in April or May. Tomorrow, they planned to head east to Holland Cays, so we gave them all the information we had on the anchorages, accuracy of Navionics and the restaurant / bars. We returned to the boat in the dark and went straight to bed, sleeping until 3.20am, when it rained and we had to close the hatches.
On Sunday we slept late and awoke to a bright and sunny morning. I did 90 minutes on Duolingo to ensure that I didn't get relegated from Pearl league. The Mexican on the Polish flagged boat left. It was a struggle getting the kedge anchor up with no windlass and everyone was happy that the yacht was downwind and unlikely to hit anyone. The morning was very busy with tourist boats passing through, between islands. We counted fourteen visible at one time and they just kept coming. It would be busy at Chichime and East Lemons, where the bars and beaches are. With the sunshine, we were making water by 10am and managed to keep it running for over four hours. Belle Amie (Olaf & Moni) and Seven (Michael & Jen) departed, calling close by to say goodbye and they would be in touch. My next job was to try to top up the Movil account, via the app, so we could renew the data pack, which was due to run out. I tried several credit and debit cards but received an error each time. I eventually decided that the problem was that the top up was in the local PAB currency, not $US, which seemed odd because the charges are always in dollars. I checked Revolut and it didn't list a currency for Panama. A boat came by selling fresh caught fish, which was very welcome as we were out of fresh food and I really didn't want another deep-fried dinner. The tuna we selected was $3 but we didn't have change, so were presented with another fish for $2. This one had nice white flesh. Pete went over to the bar and bought fries and coleslaw for our lunch. The afternoon was hot, before turning cloudy later, so we swam a lot. At 4.30pm we headed for the bar, as we wanted to buy garlic potatoes to go with the fish. Blanco was there and Stacey's mum. Henry Chechen, of flipflop rescue fame, was also there and another guy, all dressed up in tight white jeans and a fake Channel skin top. I was encouraged to practice my Spanish with anyone and everyone. There were lots of photos taken and exchanged too. Later, there was going to be a wedding, followed by fireworks and Blanco tried to press us to stay. It was also his 42nd birthday the following day, so we bought him a beer and then he returned the favour. His wife lived and worked on a different island. He told us he has six children, the eldest being 19 years old and in the police force. We also spoke to two Italian couples who were staying the night in the cabanas. They said they were basic but clean and functional. One of the mean was fluent in English and Spanish, unusual for an Italian, in my experience. Eventually we took our leave, with our portion of garlic potatoes, which were delicious with the fish. It was a fitting and beautiful final night in Guna Yala. We stayed up until 9pm but didn't see any fireworks, so they probably happened while we were both in dreamland. We would have an early start in the morning, as it would be a long, slow ride to Linton.
Comments
Vessel Name: Muirgen
Vessel Make/Model: Westerly Typhoon
Hailing Port: Hull
Crew: Donna and Peter Cariss
Muirgen's Photos - Main
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Created 18 May 2025
12 Photos
Created 7 May 2025
49 Photos
Created 8 April 2025
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Created 15 March 2025
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Created 22 February 2025
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Created 31 December 2024
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Created 31 December 2024
75 Photos
Created 15 July 2024
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Created 1 April 2024
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Created 22 March 2024
49 Photos
Created 22 March 2024
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30 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
5 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
84 Photos
Created 3 March 2024
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Created 3 March 2024
29 Photos
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22 Photos
Created 4 February 2024
33 Photos
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31 Photos
Created 24 January 2024
14 Photos
Created 27 December 2023
9 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
15 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
44 Photos
Created 11 September 2023
13 Photos
Created 9 August 2023
9 Photos
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Created 9 August 2023
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Created 19 July 2023
66 Photos
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Created 24 May 2023
65 Photos
Created 20 September 2022
56 Photos
Created 9 July 2022
13 Photos
Created 7 July 2022
7 Photos
Created 18 April 2022
19 Photos
Created 3 April 2022
22 Photos
Created 3 April 2022
3 Photos
Created 10 September 2021
3 Photos
Created 10 September 2021
4 Photos
Created 2 October 2020
16 Photos
Created 26 September 2020
13 Photos
Created 23 September 2020
11 Photos
Created 27 August 2020
27 Photos
Created 25 August 2020
9 Photos
Created 25 August 2020
11 Photos
Created 18 August 2020
16 Photos
Created 15 August 2020
22 Photos
Created 15 August 2020
18 Photos
Created 10 August 2020
10 Photos
Created 7 August 2020
20 Photos
Created 3 August 2020
14 Photos
Created 3 August 2020
20 Photos
Created 27 July 2020
10 Photos
Created 26 July 2020
29 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
5 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
12 Photos
Created 18 July 2020
Photos of Muirgen preparations
8 Photos
Created 12 July 2020
39 Photos
Created 11 August 2017
52 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
35 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
10 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
26 Photos
Created 6 August 2017
4 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
13 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
14 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
5 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
10 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
6 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
13 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
30 Photos
Created 1 July 2017
15 Photos
Created 23 June 2017
Photos are limited as the weather was dreadful and was mostly a white out. Photos are from the phone as too wet to take the cameras.
10 Photos
Created 19 June 2017
9 Photos
Created 17 June 2017
11 Photos
Created 15 June 2017
17 Photos
Created 15 June 2017
The Beautiful Kvitsoy
5 Photos
Created 5 June 2017
Weekend with Hommersak Divers at Kvitsoy
8 Photos
Created 5 June 2017
13 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
Mad creatures
16 Photos
Created 29 May 2017
Getting to Norway and waiting for Donna to fly out
6 Photos
Created 18 May 2017
12 Photos
Created 6 December 2016
Buying Muirgen
6 Photos
Created 26 November 2016