So much for the trades. Instead of the NE trade winds, we got NW, and now we are desperately seeking the SE trades, but have only light South winds. Our favourite points of sail are close hauled, close reach, and close to no wind at all. After bobbing along for days, we got caught in a series of squalls last night, which propelled us across "the line" at 0332 UTC so fast that Neptune couldn't get a look in to initiate the polywogs we have aboard. It was a breezy night, and being close hauled in 35 knots made for a rocky night. Needless to say tody we are all feeling rather jaded from fitful sleep. Once we find the SE trades (a buddy boat about 25 miles from us has 17 knots of SE) we should be on a roll for Hiva Oa. Cheers, Team Mulan