We are nearing the end of our time cruising these picturesque cruising grounds known as the Exumas. Our last stop in the Exumas will be Georgetown, by far the biggest settlement in the Exumas, but for now we are spending our last days in the outpost settlements of Staniel Cay and Black Point. Each is distinctly different, yet they are only separated by roughly 5 miles.

Staniel Cay is a touristy type stop for cruisers and those from mainland United States. Anchored just across the way from Staniel Cay Yacht Club, we were surrounded by 40 other boats all looking to enjoy the New Year’s holiday and all the festivities taking place on the tiny island. While there are only about 80 full time residents, it is the visiting population that keeps the placing buzzing all day long. What makes Staniel Cay such a popular spot? Perhaps it’s the famed Thunderball Grotto, where the James Bond film Thunderball was filmed. Maybe it’s the swimming swines (aka Hogs) that splash about along the shores of Hog Beach while eating right out of your hands. Or, maybe it’s the endless festivities taking place at Staniel Cay Yacht Club with the Bahamian a Class Challenge Regatta, New Year’s Celebration and Cruiser’s New Year’s Day Regatta. There is still plenty of sparkling clear water, reefs to snorkel and the quiet tranquility of bungalows lining the shoreline too.

We kept our visit to Staniel brief and quite low key. Seeing the number of boats and the number of people ashore at the Yacht Club created brain overload after having spent several days in remote anchorages. Mornings were spent lounging about the boat and doing boat chores. The big task was to complete cleaning the bottom of the boat. A thin film of algae had been collecting and the calm waters and warm temps were a perfect excuse to get in the water. Armed with a sponge and soft brush, I worked my way around the boat scrubbing away the slime. Up on deck, Bonnie held a line making it easier for me to thrash about. The slime coming off the boat must have seemed like some good eats, as a school of reef fish swam by and checked it out. A large stingray glided by below me as I continued on with my labor and thankfully the Nurse sharks decided to stay in near shore this morning.

Later in the day we hopped into the dinghy and decided to find out more about these swimming hogs. We had been watching the tour boats flood the beach with gawking tourists. The local tour boats roar from one spot to another, quickly ushering people from snorkel spot, to beaches, to whatever seems like a good tourist thing to do. The more horsepower they have, the faster they can rocket from stop to stop on the half day excursion. Luckily for us, we landed on the beach with no tour boats present…but we did have a tour guide. One of the little girls from a cruising boat presented herself as an expert on the hogs. While we eyeballed a rather fat and happy hog near the water, this spark plug assured us that there was a bunch of piglets asleep in the Palmetto palm hammock. Sure enough, 5 or 6 piglets napped away like they were a herd of puppies. In the sand, they were all scrunched together and our little tour guide began reeling off their names. She had a name for each pig on the beach…I figured she was either really creative or she has spent a lot of time in Staniel Cay!

Our only other excitement was a visit to the local store on Mailboat Day. It’s not a holiday, but like Black Friday, you better shop early to get the good stuff. Usually on Thursday’s, a supply boat arrives on the island from Nassau with mail, fresh groceries, supplies and other goods that have been ordered for the island. We were able to get fresh lettuce, milk and few other items which were much needed. Cruisers from all the boats visit the stores like bees coming and going from a hive. Even the big Mega Yachts are not immune to needing a few essentials. I saw one Chef dressed in uniform stroll passed us with a full cart of goodies…I am sure that boat has a menu much more diverse than what we are living on!

Just 5 miles south is the larger Settlement of Black Point. Don’t let the notion of “larger” fool you into thinking this is thriving metropolis. The 200 or so residents of the island will welcome you with open arms and remind you just how friendly all of the Exuma Island can be for visitors. The island is flanked with low lying hills and an anchorage that funnels down to a sandy beach with shallow water sands that are exposed at low tide. The main part of town sits at one end and the smaller very remote end of the island contains small cottages that are for use by vacationers looking to get away for an island retreat. These cottages dot the hill overlooking the anchorage and are painted in vibrant colors of pinks, blues, sea greens and other assorted colors. Just beyond the cottages on the East side, the raging Atlantic Ocean with it’s deep blue water swells up against the bluffs which protect the island. Standing there, you can appreciate the strength of the ocean waters slowly eroding the limestone walls.

We spent New Years Eve and a few book ended days in the Black Point Settlement, but could have easily spent a week or more enjoying the food, hospitality and quiet charm of this island of 200. Whereas Staniel Cay was bustling with the activities of a full week of New Years hoopla, Black Point was happy to be a deserted outpost for cruisers. Our “big” New Years Eve plans consisted of watching the Alabama game followed by an outstanding dinner at Lorraines Café. We had walked the town the previous day and acquired the needed intel on television and food. Like most remote islands, a dinner reservation is a nessecity and finding a TV with your favorite game may take some coaxing in the local establishment.
Reservations ensure someone will be there, the place will be open and your menu choice will actually be available….seats aren’t a problem…but if it’s slow night, you wouldn’t want to show up to find the only restaurant closes because no one was on shore that night.

Watching the Alabama game at Scorpio’s gave us a chance to talk with the local people of the Settlement. I learned that the boat building family that I had met in Warderick Wells literally lived a stone throw from the Scorpio. The C Class Bahamian boat that they were currently working on was sitting next to the house. The gleaming blue hull, done in the traditional wood frame and with it’s deep full keel sat on a trailer waiting for the spars and rigging to be completed. An older gentleman struck up a conversation with us as we took in the game. In talking with us, he described what we had already come to know as truth….that the Exumas were truly a friendly place, where you were welcome and were treated like family.

The Patriots are onto the Playoffs and we are onto Georgetown.