Benitses to Vlicho
24 June 2015
Absolutely gorgeous sunshine
Wednesday 3rd June
I finally decide to leave Benitses after staying here for ten days. A meeting with some friends of Nick and Pat, a lovely German couple Bernd and Sabine and I managed to get the curtain material I had brought out from the Uk made up. Sabine did a great job and Nanjo looks a lot brighter inside. She also gave me a brilliant recipe for frying pan pizza, which I can't wait to try out.
My stern anchor came out really easily, and after watching Nicks getting stuck under a mooring chain and having to pay a diver to go down, I was more than happy. I was soon motor sailing over towards Iggy Creek, a large bay near Ignoumitsa. I ended up anchoring in the second bay and was soon joined by Nick and Pat who have agreed to show me some new harbours on my way to Corfu. We had a quiet night, and had anchored so close together that I could actually step from Nanjo onto there yacht. The second day looked good, so I did a pile of washing, but in the evening the winds picked up and sent in quite a vicious chop. Watching a nearby Belgian yacht drag his anchor and try to re-set it again made me even more cautious. Nick was getting blown further back to the shore, so moved forward and re-set his, but my 35lb cqr seemed well dug in, and Nanjo wasn't moving. The first part of the night was spent in the cockpit on anchor watch, I had arranged a head torch, and cleared the decks if I had to motor out quickly. By midnight it was dying down, so I slept on the settee, fully clothed. An hour later and although still windy and choppy, the worst was over and I turned in. Next morning was a lovely day. I found out later that Pat had stayed up most of the night on Zoe.
Next port of call was good old Lakka, and another motorsail together. We arrived early afternoon and found plenty of space to anchor. My Avon dinghy was soon pumped up for a run ashore. We stayed two days, just relaxing and swimming. It's so nice not to have a time plan.
We set of for Mongonisi only a short trip from Lakka, on the way Nick suggested that we go to Emerald bay on anti-Paxos, as we were having a great sail and it was early. As we got nearer the bay, I could just see all the trip boats and as I was having such a great time actually sailing for a change, I opted to circumnavigate anti-paxos. It's a lot further round than I first thought, but the wind held for most of the trip. A sudden rain squall as I was sailing through the gap between the islands, had Nanjo well healed over and a speed of 6.8 knots. A bit too much, so I let the main out so it lost any drive and still managed 5 knots with my small jib. The squall soon passed and I was getting the sails down for Mongonisi, I ended up anchoring in the bay rather than go onto the jetty. I'm glad that I did, parts of it are very shallow and rocky. Meeting up with Nick and Pat for a meal in the taverna, they talked me through our next port Parga, with a beach mooring, a new one on me.
We managed to sail a bit on the way to Parga, which was great. I followed Nick in, and already there was a flotilla lead boat up the beach. After seeing what I had to do, I pointed Nanjo at the beach. Let out the stern kedge line and nudged her keel into the soft sand, Nick took my bow anchor and buried it up the beach in front. That was it! I had been to Parga before and always dismissed it has being to dodgy to go onto the rough jetty there. We were soon joined by the other flotilla boats, and it was great to see them coming in. We went ashore curtosey of Yanni's water taxi, I've got to say, it's a fantastic town. I enjoyed walking around the streets and that night we had a great meal in a side street taverna. Being in no rush, we stayed another day, but this time walked into town along the beach. Luckily Nick knew the route, it's a steep climb up into the town and you wouldn't want to get lost. We went back in Yanni's taxi later that evening for another great meal. I will be coming back to Parga I'm sure some day.
A short trip down to Ligia next day, the pilot book makes it sound a really tricky entrance. I've read up on it before and dismissed it straight away, but Nick and Pat had been in before and knew the route through the rocks. It was another motor sail day, I actually motored past the harbour. My gps told me it was 90 degrees off my port side, and all I could see was a stone wall. It was only after plotting my position on a paper chart that i believed the gps! I hung back and waited for Zoe to arrive, and glad that I did. Even following them in, the underwater rocks come up quickly and the depth went down to 2.5mtrs as we crossed a rock bar. Once inside though, it's a lovely small harbour, built with E.U money I guess. Dinner that night was at the nearby taverna, who only cooked fish! Luckily Pat and I managed to opt for the swordfish, and it was really good. But i would have still opted for a gyros if it was on the menu.
Off again the next day and another short sail down to Preveza, now I'm in my home waters so to speak. We both actually managed to sail most of the way this time, and were busy taking pictures of each other sailing along. A rare treat on a yacht. I had arranged to meet some old friends Tom and Anne who were anchored in the bay, behind Preveza marina. I soon spotted there yacht and anchored 20mtrs in front in only 3 mtrs of water, as near to the shore as I wanted to go. Zoe anchored nearby, and I soon had my Avon pumped up and rowing us ashore in two trips. Nick had mentioned getting an electric outboard, and I must be honest the idea does appeal to me. Our first stop was the Chinese shop at the top of town. To kit me out with some cheap shirts, maybe I'm getting old, but I had been finding wearing my usual t-shirts getting a bit hot. Nicks a advocate of cheap shirts, and they certainly seem more practical. We had a great laugh trying to find stuff that would fit me, now, I'm a bit on the tubby side at the moment, but a xl in the UK fits ok. The Chinese xl wouldn't go over my arm! We ended up trying xxxl and they still didn't fit, I guess that they don't have many 17 stone 6ft 2in Chinese about? After a lot of searching, we found 5 suitable shirts that came to 20 euros, a pretty good deal I reckoned. Going ashore that night and I was actually looking smarter than usual, I've just got to get my head around the fact that these are now my everyday work shirts, and not to be kept for best!
I rowed over to Tom and Anne the next day, and it was great to see them both again after such a long time. Tom gave me a pressie of his old Avon dinghy, it had a slow leak!! and a lot bigger than mine and had seen a lot of use. It pumped up okay and I towed it back to Nanjo, then over to Zoe. It was the ideal size for the three of us to get in and put Nicks outboard on the back. So, without really checking the Avon out, we all piled in and went ashore. It motored well with the outboard, and I vowed to keep it if I could get it on Nanjos foredeck and stow it. Coming back to the dinghy a few hours later, and it was not a pretty sight. It had lost at least 50% of its air and was barely afloat! Having no pump with us, I agreed to go back to Nanjo and get one. Amazingly it took my weight, but folded alarmingly in the middle, starting the outboard gave it even more of a bend. I was expecting it to give way at any moment and I would end up swimming. Back alongside Nanjo, it only took a few pumps in each tube to get it stiff again and I was soon heading back to collect Nick and Pat. Typically for a small 2 stroke outboard, it refused to start once they were onboard, so we decided to row back. To say we were going nowhere fast would be an understatement, luckily Tom had spotted us mucking about and came to our rescue and towed us to both our yachts. The offer of sundowners on his yacht later was greatfully accepted.
After putting a few patches on the Avon, i thought that i had sorted it out. But a few more runs ashore in it, this time carrying the pump with me soon proved it was a lot worse than i had hoped. After a final run ashore, I towed it to the nearest beach, pulled it up on the gravel and left a sign saying "Free/Gratis" on it. I'm sure that a local would soon spirit it away and it will give many more happy years service. Nick and Pat left the next day for there return sail to Corfu. I spent the day washing my new shirts, and glad I did, the water soon went a gray colour.
I motored away on the 15th June and headed for the bridge at Lefkada, the works on widening the channel have made it so much safer now on the approach. I was the first yacht in line, and soon cleared the 11am bridge and was heading back down to my favorite sailing area. At the end of the channel the wind was blowing right up Nanjos stern, i soon had full sail up and had a great trip down to Vlicho. Even stupidly trying to sail past Nidri, after missing a couple of trip boats who decided that I didn't have right of way, i reluctantly started the engine and motored to Vlicho. Dropping 30mtrs of chain in 5mtrs of water, and digging the cqr well into the mud, made me feel like I had come home. Vlicho gets a lot of bad press from some people, but I love it here. It's really hard to describe just how scenic it is, having what looks like mountains all around you, and normally it's a peaceful place to anchor.
Tues 16th June, and I've got the anchor up and Nanjo prepped for any kind of mooring. I've got to find a berth so Vernon can come and look at my fridge for me. The first pontoons are full up, but a chance shout from Alan (Nanjos old owner) on the Nydri marine pontoon, and he recommends I go to the IBA pontoon and ask. I've found the best thing to really do, is to bob up and down by the pontoon and hopefully locate a space. Then usually somebody will direct you yo another or tell you to come in. There was a small gap, between a gorgeous Dutch yacht and a Brit, just big enough for Nanjo with a bit of fender squashing. So, in I went, dropping the kedge the regulation 4 boat lengths out and easing my way in. It all went text book, I had 3 metres of kedge rope left. Stepped to the bow and handed my helpfull neighbour my bow lines, within a minute Nanjo was all secure and the fenders rearranged. Vernon was down within a couple of hours, and we talked over the options to fix the fridge. It was something he had never known before as well, and offered to contact Dometic in the Uk for advice. The next day he brought me down a spare compressor that would fit my vapouriser plate. That way I had a working fridge, he will get me the correct plate in the Uk and bring it out in September. Vernon spent time gassing it all up and making sure everything worked ok. He did a great job, and to be honest, it's made life on Nanjo just so much better. I had spent my year without a fridge, and survived no problem. But it's hard to describe what it's like having a cold beer when you want, cold milk and cold fruit juice. Sheer luxury. Just got to keep my fingers crossed that it carries on working now. It's the old saying "what you never had you don't miss". I'm now getting used to watching my battery monitor show a 4.4amp draw whenever it switches on, but so far the solar panels and wind gen can keep up with the power drain.
I spent three days on the IBA pontoon in the end, and had a great time. Well worth the 9 euros a night fee, with electric and water inc.
Fri 19th June, my kedge anchor came up okay and covered in thick mud. A nice morning for a motor around and empty my holding tank, i chugged around Scorpious island, and was amazed at just how much security there is now. Even a guy in a rib just motoring up and down inside the buoyed off area to shoo you away if you crossed over! I couldn't help but feel sad for the people who know own the island, they must be so afraid and insecure!
I dropped anchor back in the middle of Vlicho bay, put out 40mtrs this time as I'm going to be here for a few weeks.
Fri 26th June. I've been here a week now, and enjoyed every minute. I've been getting on with the list of jobs I didn't finish in Messolonghi. Still got loads more to keep me busy for the next week. I'm back to swimming every day again, rowing ashore for bread and walking around. Hopefully my weight will start to come down and I'll get fitter in the process. Lifes really great for me now, I'm easily living within my pension, the suns getting hotter and I'm as free as I can ever hope to be. Still not started to learn the guitar or clarinet. But my library of books is going down.