Pamukkale & Hierapolis
09 April 2013
Brian Hall
Monday April 8, 2013
We were told to be at the marina gate by 6am for pickup but by 6:35 the cold and rain was making us uncomfortable. Finally a van arrived and brought us to catch the 30 passenger bus in Marmaris and we departed for Pamukkale about 7. We stopped for a Turkish breakfast enroute – Hard boiled eggs, cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers bread and, of course olives. Pamukkale is a 15000 year old hot spring which erupted near the top of a mountain spilling 35 degree Celsius water down the mountainside. It was full of calcium and carbon dioxide and as it solidified it gradually left a white calcium residue which built up over the millennia and attracted the Romans to build a holy city nearby. The legend goes that Cleopatra, concerned that her beauty was failing her, sent her soldiers to the far corners of the world to find the fountain of youth. Of all the places they searched, Pamukkale waters kept her young. Mark Anthony is reputed to have given Pamukkale to Cleopatra as a gift.
We arrived at the city and they suggested that we should swim in Cleopatra’s pool which is a natural watercourse which receives the 35C water from the spring. We decided instead to go directly to the Travertine pools and just as we arrived, the rain ceased and we had sporadic sunshine for the rest of the afternoon. The travertine spills all down the hillside in waves and pools that look like snowdrifts. In fact, from a distance, you would think you are seeing a snow covered slope. They channel the warm water to different sections of the slope as there is not enough water to cover all the slopes all the time. The cascading water creates an infinity pool and then trickles over to form another pool lower down, There were 7 pools in play when we were there. We rolled up our pants and waded into the warm cloudy water (now we have young feet). It was very slippery while in the pool but once outside the dried calcium gave a surprisingly good grip.
After our dip we walked up to the ancient Roman theatre of Hierapolis which is exceptionally well preserved. It will still seat 12000 people and is in restoration. Originally, the city held 100,000 people and the remains of the Cathedral, the fountains and the Roman road were amazing. We wandered among the ruins and especially loved Frontinus Street which covered a deep drain underneath and the stones held indentations from the chariot wheels in the stone slabs.
We then toured an onyx factory where almost anything you can imagine from camels to brandy glasses are made from onyx in at least 4 different colours. All beautiful stuff but too heavy to export.
Next we had a buffet dinner and were on our way home arriving in Marmaris about 8 (actually it was 8:04 and the bus left at 8). We put in an hour walking and some grocery shopping and arrived back on Necessity about 9:45 tired and happy. A very good day.
Brian on board Necessity Marmaris Turkey