Saturday April 27, 2013
We had a very basic breakfast at the hotel before driving the remaining 10 km to Hora Sfaklion where we were to find the boat to the gorge. It is a bit like Tobermory with tourists accumulating and killing time waiting for the ferry departure. We learned that at this time of year there was one boat out at 10:30 and one returning boat back at 5. The ferry was a coastal ferry much smaller than the ocean going monsters we saw in Halki. It was to make a stop at the two villages and then return. Both villages have no road access. Boarding early, we watched as truck after truck rolled on then emptied all it’s cargo (mostly groceries) stacked along the sides of the open car area and then departed. When this phase was complete, on came two loaded cement mixers and a garbage packer which were lined up across the middle of the ferry side by side. They were so close together, the driver had to stay in the vehicle. In front of them was an ice cream truck and miscellaneous pickups and vans loaded to the gunwales. This all took time and as a result we were a half hour late leaving and it was 12:30 before we arrived in Ayia Roumeli where the gorge meets the sea. This place was full of restaurants which, I suppose, is what the trekkers want after climbing 6 hours. However, at this time of year it was deserted even after the 50 or so people arrived on the ferry. We chose a nice spot but the food was only moderate.
It was nearly 2 when we began out trek to the Iron Gates, a spot where the gorge narrows until it is only 10 feet wide. They are only about 5K out of the 18k long gorge. Brenda turned back about 1/3 of the way out of concern for her recently broken foot and Irene, Howard and Brian carried on. The paved stone path gave way to gravel and then rock as we entered the National Park. We basically followed the riverbed and the path changed depending on the rate of water flow. There were crude wooden bridges to span the stream back and forth and the walls of the gorge towered some 1500’ above us. As we passed the Iron Gates we had to walk on wooden catwalks over the water. All along there was water piping carrying fresh water to the town below. The day was warm, nearly 30C and we decided to stop in the shade to cool our feet in the cold, clear mountain water. To say the views were spectacular would be a gross understatement. This was the most outstanding natural feature of the island, which is renowned for its natural beauty.
Back at the town we met up with Brenda and enjoyed a refreshing Radler (beer & lemonade) before catching the ferry back to civilization. The two cement trucks (now empty after pouring part of the wharf) , the ice cream truck (also empty) and the garbage packer (full) joined us for the return trip. We stopped again at Loutro, a tiny tourist settlement with one street. We watched for 30 minutes while 2 guys hand bombed the village garbage into the now very full packer truck.
We were back at the car and on the road by 6:30pm for the nail biting drive over the mountains to Hania on the north coast. We arrived just as the sun set and stopped outside the walled city. Brian stayed with the car looking for a parking place while the others scouted for a hotel. One was soon located just inside and a rate negotiated. At 35E we benefited from the fact the owner, Stavros was born in Montreal. We got the Canadian discount. We were directed to a restaurant called Tamam where we had more great Greek food. The restaurant was large, occupying buildings on both sides of the narrow street and tables filled half the street as well. The place was hopping even at 10pm. A quick trip around the Venetian harbour followed and then off to bed.
Brian, on the hard, Hania Greece