Voyage of SY Nessaru - Almeria to Gran Caneria
22 April 2024 | Almeria
Colin Maslen | Sunny, SW wind 10 Knots

Yesterday, Sunday, we took time out and walked to the Alcazaba , an extensive Moorish fortress which rests high up on a hill overlooking the sea and the city of Almería. This huge complex was built by Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Rahman II in the latter half of the 10th century, although archaeologists have found evidence of earlier structures on the site dating back to the Roman Empire. It was once a formidable military fortification with a triple line of curtain like walls and fantastic crenelated battlements. The largest Moorish defensive fortress in Spain, it was partly modelled after the Alhambra. (The Alhambra is technically the largest Muslim building in Spain, but is usually considered a palace, not a fortress.)
With its strategic location, Alcazaba was able to control the four cardinal directions, with special particular interest looking south, toward the sea, the very same sea that would bring not only conflict to the fortress but also provide an abundance of riches from Mediterranean trade. This was during the golden age of Almería in the 11th century, when there was a popular saying at the time, "When Almería was Almería, Granada was but its farmhouse, Malaga its gateway, and Murcia its garden."
Many films that have been shot at the Alcazaba, including Indiana Jones and Conan the Barbarian. The Alcazaba also stars as Dorne on the HBO series Game of Thrones, and the nearby Tabernas desert was home to the spaghetti westerns of the 60s and 70s.
The scale of the Alcazaba is enormous, and with its crenelated walls it is quite forbidding. Yet inside the complex there are gardens with water features that are also quite peaceful and beautiful. When we walked through it, I could not but help wonder what romances, intrigues and political plots took place there over a century ago.
On a completely different topic, namely the name of our yacht, Nessaru: Our yacht broker told us that Nessaru didn't mean anything. But when we emailed the previous owner before departing Port Ginesta, she informed us that Nesaru is the Great Sky Spirit of the Arikara culture, sometimes called the Great Mystery; he was the master of all creation. So I looked that up. The Arikara tribe, also known as Sahnish or Ree, are a Native American people related to the Pawnee, whose traditional homeland is in present-day North Dakota. Historically, they were semi-nomadic people who primarily lived in earth lodges along the Missouri River. And Nesaru, or Nishanu, is indeed the Arikara name for the Great Spirit or God. Literally, "Neshanu Natchitak" means "the Chief Above." For some interesting information about the Arikara people, go to https://www.legendsofamerica.com/na-arikara/
Change of plan: After looking at various weather predictions and routing options, we have decided against going to Madeira and will instead set course for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands. Our navigation plan has a course of 270 degrees from Gibraltar until we are well past the Traffic Separation Scheme, then we will alter course to Port (turn left) to 225 Degrees to the Canaries.
During my research on the Arikara, I found a photo of an Arikara chief, Sitting Bear. He looks very dignified, wise and auspicious; I hope Sitting Bear looking over us as we commence the next leg of our voyage.
Sailing at 10:00 on Tuesday; next update after 1 May when we get to Gran Canaria.