We had been to Chania (at the other end of the island) briefly on our first visit to Crete and loved it. Although some of the town is a bit touristy, the 'old town' is full of higgledy-piggledy streets and slightly faded old Venetian buildings all round the waterfront.We found ourselves an atmospheric 'pension' with an amazing wooden spiral staircase that actually missed one floor out entirely (!), and a fantastic view from the rooftop terrace (see picture).

We set off at 5.30am the next morning to walk the Samaria Gorge which at 16km is Europe's longest gorge. The coach takes you right to the top of the mountains through some of the most spectacular scenery we have seen for a long time. The walk descends through the gorge to the sea where there is no road access so you have to take a ferry boat to a village from where you get the coach back. Unfortunately, when we got to the start of the walk we were told that there was a strong southerly wind on the coast which would prevent the ferries from running that day. As the only alternative would have been to hike the 16k back up the mountain we decided on a lesser (only 8km!) walk through a shorter but just as spectacular nearby gorge.

The first time our walking plans have been changed by the wind coming from the wrong direction!