Now we once again turn north in search of the southeastern Alaska glaciers. Another day or two to get to Petersburg where there are several glaciers, one of which up the Tracy Arm is supposed to be spectacular. There are two glaciers here, North and South Sawyer. On the way to these glaciers is a fiord with 4,000 granite walls on both sides. Waterfalls abound as well as tour boats and pleasure craft. The north glacier has apparently receded, the glacier face is no longer tidal, the south glacier has a calving face and is reported to be a tricky passage to get close due to bergs in the waters. I read that if the wind changes the ice can form a barrier making passage almost impossible. We are excited to be in glacier country and will do our best to describe what we see.

We left Ketchikan this morning after pumping out our holding tank and taking on water. I think I mentioned this boat has considerable storage tanks including the holding tank. This was our first pump out since leaving Anacortes at the end of June and the gauge was only reading medium full. It's a little goofy to get excited about the size of your holding tank but coming from our sailboat with only 12 gallons, New World represents many new experiences for us.

The City of Ketchikan, back in Chicagoland we would equate its size to that of a village or small town, has mountains to its back and the Tongass Narrows on its front door. The streets run along the waterfront or up the mountain; driving up and down these access roads must be exciting in the winter after snowstorms. The restaurants, bars, and tourist shops are along the waterfront fed by a continuous flow of cruise ships. These businesses are built on pilings, wooden ones looking marginal in structural integrity and others sturdy concrete or steel. We stayed three days and did the obligatory touristy stuff and then started blending in. All throughout our cruising journeys we have focused on the people and places behind the tourist fronts. We utilized the free bus service to "downtown", ate lunches at bars frequented by locals, and since Alice's birthday was the 18, yesterday, we had dinner at the fanciest restaurant in the city, Annabelle's Famous Keg and Chowder House. Vintage twenties or thirties, its décor hadn't changed much at least IMHO. Menu prices were a surprise on the high side. Three crab legs and a claw, $174.00 US. We skipped that entrée. The big surprise was when the check arrived. We were guessing well over $200. $105, I asked Chris our server if this was correct, yup, because it was Alice's birthday her meal was free. Again, thank you Alaska and Annabelle's.
As I write, the clouds are back but no rain. Admiral Alice is cooking chicken legs, drying laundry, we do have a washer and dryer, the dryer is not like back home, and she is still finding new places to store my tools. God bless my Lady Alice. The current has picked up in our favor, now doing 7.6 kts SOG, speed over the ground. I just passed a seal but no whales yet today.

Ketchikan is a city in motion. Cruise ships arriving and departing daily, sea plans flying overhead continuously, fishing boats offloading their catches, tourist excursions boats, hovercraft, jets, and busses going all day long. Contrast between the wealthy exemplified by the cruise ships and their passengers to the fishermen and their well-used boats will last in our memories.