Ntombi

Ntombi too

Who: Johan and Francina Botha
Port: London
We were very fortunate to be sailing in Cape Town Harbour at the start of the Volvo harbour race. Even more fortunate to meet Laura Dekker, the youngest sailor to do a circumnavigation.
09 September 2019
29 June 2019 | Denerau harbour Anchorage/Wailoaloa beach/Vuda Marina
25 June 2019 | Beqa island, Robinson Crusoe island, Noisali island
06 June 2019 | https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Ntombi
02 June 2019 | Suva, Fiji
02 May 2019 | Whangarei Marina
23 September 2018
22 November 2012 | New Zealand
27 October 2012 | Tongatapu
28 September 2012 | Tahiti
09 September 2012 | Apataki
01 September 2012 | Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas
26 August 2012 | Hiva Oa
14 July 2012 | Pedro de Gonzalez, Las Perlas
03 July 2012 | Panama
29 June 2012 | Panama
20 June 2012 | Curacao Spaanse waters
20 June 2012 | We left Bonaire at 24h00 in order to arrive at Curacao during daybreak. The sail was very bumpy due to the direction of the waves in the strong wind. We did not sail with the main, but only the headsail with the pole. The wind was mostly from the stern
17 June 2012 | Kralendijk, Bonaire

Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas

01 September 2012 | Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas
Francina
French Polynesia is an overseas territory of France and it consists of 4 island groups, Society Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, Marquesas and Austral islands. The plan is to visit Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, Apataki in the Tuamotu and Tahiti in the Society Islands. The Austral Islands are out of our way and we will therefore not visit them.

The four island groups, comprising of 109 islands, spread over an ocean area of 1.5 million square miles. The combined land area of these four groups is a little over 1500 square miles with an overall population of 245000. Approximately 69% live in Tahiti, part of the Society islands.

The islands are high volcanic islands, except the Tuamotu Archipelago. They are composed entirely of low-lying atolls, except one, Makatea, which is a raised atoll. The Marquesas were discovered by the Spaniard Alvaro de Mendana de Neira in 1595. He named them after his benefactor Las Marquesas de Mendoza from Peru. Cook stumbled upon them in 1774.

There are 6 large and 6 smaller islands. The best known of the Marquesas islands is Hiva Oa, it is also the biggest. it is very fertile and a heavily wooded high island, 23 miles long and 10 miles wide. It is renowned as the last home and burial site of Paul Gaugruin, the French painter, and Jacques Brel, the Belgian singer. They attrack a lot of tourists from both France and Belgium. There is an airport and we saw the airplane arriving and departing a few times during our week visit. The Polynesian name for the Marquesas is 'Te Henua Enata', The Land of Men.

White bread and 4x4's are busy taking it's toll, especially with the woman of the island. Most of the woman are overweight, but the men is more healthy. They still perform hard physical work and also row in the afternoon for excercise. Most of them have a very proud stature. The spoken language is French, and only a handful are able to speak English. Even the police officers where we had to check into the country were unable to speak English.

We went on a tour of the island on a 4x4. The trip took us through spectacular scenery, with wild rugged ridges and deep lush valeys. We also visisted Puamau, the site of the biggest 'Tikki' in Polynesia. Tikki's are stone statues, representing the gods or famous chiefs from the past. There were different tribes living on the island and they practiced cannibalism. They ate the members of the opposite tribe if they caught them. There was a prison on site, close to the "braai" area where they burned and eaten humans. There was also a stage where the musicians would perform. The whole village would gather around for the ritual and the feast. According to the tour guide, there were 100 000 poeple on the island before the Europeans got there. They brought virusses, etc and the local people died out to a mere 2000 at early 1900's.

In Hiva Oa we began seeing heavily tattooed bodies, a feature common to the whole Pacific. In the early days tattoos were a sign of status in the community.

We got 2 local guys to scrub the bottom of Ntombi. They had a speargun available in the event that a shark might attack whilst working on the boat. There were a lot of sharks in the water in the bay. It is not advisable to swim.
We attended Gerard's birthday party on Papillon. It was a delightful evening, although we were a bit lost when they spoke French most of the time. The food was very good.

One of the single handed sailors, Pierre, developed infection from a small cut on his leg and landed in hospital for a few days. The Doctor reckon he would have died if he had not gone to hospital when he did. We got a bit scared and stocked up with anti-biotics and disinfectant.

The French bread sticks, baked every morning was devine. We obviously indulged in a few of those per day.

Great excitement when the police came with their guns on board one of the yachts. They held the skipper and the crew for the whole day, fine combing the boat for drugs. The next day they were back with a sniffer dog. The skipper says he does not know why they targeted his boat. Local speculation is that there were police from Papeete and they practiced their skills. We will never know the reason, but the yachties were a bit traumatised as a result. They just spent 10 days sailing without a rudder, was towed into harbour and 2 days later this ordeal. They are also on their way to New Zealand.
Another single handed youngster is also on his way to New Zealand. He left 2 days before us, but will be island hopping until Fiji before he sails down to Opua in New Zealand.

David, from Rancho of the Seas told us about Apataki Carenage which is much cheaper than Papeete, Tahiti for the haulout of Ntombi. Daniel confirmed the above and we decided to book for haulout in this remote atoll. The pictures look very nice on internet. We desperately need to fix the propshaft and will antifoul at the same time.

I am constantly "correcting" myself. I made a remark previously about Tamarind and that I did not like the taste. Well, we enjoyed Tamarind fresh from the tree and it was very nice. They need to be dry (not green) and the sweet/sour taste was delightful.

On Sunday morning a Volvo 60 boat arrived with 8 woman and 4 men on board. They only spent the night before they left for Fatu Hiva. They are also on their way to New Zealand for haul out and preparation for the Sydney to Hobard race next year.

Frant, with his 3 sons and daughter in law, is also planning to sail in the Sydney to Hobard race with his one son. He bought the fast 44 in New York and is sailing it to Australia. It is a good adventure for him and the boys to 'bond'.

The island does not have any facilities for yachties. There are no public toilets or ablusion blocks. There is however an open air shower which is used by the local people. They come in the morning before work to shower and others use it in the evening. We also used the shower when it was available. Next to the shower is a tiled concrete slab that I used to do my washing. We took some water in a see through collapsable water tank and saw that the water was not very clean. Luckily we did not need to fill our water tanks.

There were no fuel available for sale on the island either. You need to order fuel and it will be delivered with the Copra boat. The islanders were not too clear on the frequency of the boat. Some material stated that it visits the island every 2 weeks. We only saw a tuna boat coming in from Tahiti, selling Tuna to willing buyers.

90% of the population on the island are members of the Catholic Church. We enquired about an Adventist church, but they were unable to understand us. The tour guide was of the opinion that there are adventists, but he was unable to tell us where they meet. We therefore spent Sabbath watching DVD's and reading from Great Controversy. Johan shared information about the Illuminate and Freemasonry with Daniel. He also copied some of the DVD's on the subject from us.

We spent 8 days in Hiva Oa before we sufficiently recovered to continue the sail to the Tuomotu Archipelago for the haul out in a very scenic environment.
Vessel Name: Ntombi
Vessel Make/Model: Bruce Roberts, Offshore 45
Hailing Port: London
Crew: Johan and Francina Botha
About: Johan is the captain and qualified diesel engineer with experience in MTU, Detroit, DAF, etc engines.
Extra:
Sailing in Mauritius in 2003 changed our perception of sail boats. The focus therefore shifted from motor boats to sail boats. We bought a Holiday 23 after completing our Yacht Hand and Day Skipper licence with Ocean Sailing Academy in Durban in 2006. We sailed her on the Vaaldam and the dream [...]
Ntombi's Photos - Main
Sailing Whangarei to Tauranga and back
1 Photo
Created 18 July 2021
Exploring the Western side of Viti Levu
31 Photos
Created 11 July 2019
13 Photos
Created 3 July 2019
Photos taken in Suva and surrounding suburbs
34 Photos
Created 9 June 2019
It took us 11 days, leaving Marsden Cove Marina on 18 May at 10:30. arriving in Suva, Fiji on 29 May at 10:30 am.
11 Photos
Created 4 June 2019
Very convenient marina in the town basin. Our home for 5 years
10 Photos
Created 12 May 2019
5 Photos
Created 12 May 2019
Photos taken on walks in the morning, and the surroundings after we went back into the water (whale rock damages). Waiting for the weather window to sail to attempt to sail to Auckland again.
12 Photos
Created 5 May 2013
Pictures taken of the keel being fit back on after it got loose when we hit whale rock
10 Photos
Created 5 May 2013
Pictures taken during our visit at Petrus and Alicia in Greymouth in January 2013
25 Photos
Created 9 February 2013
Pictures of New Zealand and the people we met
30 Photos
Created 20 December 2012
Photo's taken from the time we left Tongatapu until we arrived in New Zealand
20 Photos
Created 6 December 2012
Sail from Tahiti to Tongatapu island, part of Tonga
75 Photos
Created 5 November 2012
Sail from Hiva Oa, Marquesas to Apataki in Tuamotu
64 Photos
Created 9 October 2012
Photo's taken whilst sailing from Apataki to Tahiti, as well as photo's taken during our stay in Tahiti
99 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
Sail from Las Perlas to Hiva Oa
44 Photos
Created 20 September 2012
Sail from Balboa yacht club, Panama City to Las Perlas
76 Photos
Created 20 September 2012
More photo's of the canal transit and the stay at Balboa yacht club
71 Photos
Created 10 July 2012
Stay in Colon and Balboa as well as the transit through the canal
124 Photos
Created 3 July 2012
Trip from Curacao to Shelter Bay marina in Panama
39 Photos
Created 1 July 2012
Trip from Kralendijk Bonaire to Spaanse Waters Curacao
37 Photos
Created 1 July 2012
Trip from Trinidad to Kralendijk, Bonaire
39 Photos
Created 18 June 2012
84 Photos
Created 11 June 2012
Short visit to Storebay in Tobago with nice snorkeling reefs and white beaches
24 Photos
Created 11 June 2012
Trip from Fortaleza to Tobago. Visit in Scarborough, the capital of Tobago
57 Photos
Created 31 May 2012
Photo's from the trip between Ascension island and Fortaleza, Brazil
15 Photos
Created 31 May 2012
Photo's of the trip from Ascension island to Fernande de Noronha, Brazil
33 Photos
Created 27 May 2012
12 Photos
Created 15 April 2012
Voyage from Cape Town in South Africa to Saint Helena Island in the Atlantic Ocean
25 Photos
Created 15 April 2012
Photos from the day we took ownership to the day Ntombi was transported from Vaaldam to Richardsbay to sail in the Indian Ocean
1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 28 December 2011
Photos of Ntombi when we took ownership
6 Photos
Created 28 December 2011

Ntombi too

Who: Johan and Francina Botha
Port: London
We were very fortunate to be sailing in Cape Town Harbour at the start of the Volvo harbour race. Even more fortunate to meet Laura Dekker, the youngest sailor to do a circumnavigation.