Phew, what a day. So much to talk about. Also so many photos that I'd love to share but at Sat Phone internet prices I do need to sensible and restrict things.
We maintained our usual night-time anchor watches. A change in wind direction blew a big bunch of ice floes into the bay and towards us. Several big floes were inexorably heading our way and necessitated weighing anchor at 1am Sibeal and I decided to seek better shelter on the other side of the bay (3 chilly miles away). The wind was coming down of the surrounding hills at 25 knots ie force 6 as we crossed the bay. The other side of the bat was too shallow for a safe anchorage so we retraced our steps to near where we?d started from, but the wind was easing and the floes were beaching. For my next watch at 6am it was completely calm so I could pole away the large numbers of ice pieces that were heading our way. Two musk ox headed towards the shore- big beasts. Not sure what they eat as it is a pretty barren landscape. Don?t know who would win in a fight between musk ox and polar bears.

Finally that morning Maire and I made it to shore. First of all we went to the Franklin monument. There are also the remains of buildings erected by one of the Royal Navy parties sent to search for him, together with discarded tin cans and barrels, many interspersed with beautiful wild flowers. Also some great pebbles a fossil for me to collect.

All of this was moving but even more so where the graves of four sailors further round the bay. Sibeal and I visited these and then headed up the hill to find the true Franklin memorial cairn overlooking Lancaster Sound- spectacular views and it looks like the ice in the area we could see should be passable.

On the way down Sibeal spotted an arctic hare. I have always love hares and this one was both beautiful and fearless, allowing us to come right up close. Sibeal could have as easily shot it with her rifle as her camera.

Once we got back down, Sibeal announced that she was going for a swim. She had a record to beat for her most northerly dip, having been in when visiting Upernivik, Greenland. As she was swimming a Canadian Coast Guard plane flew overhead and probably got a bit of a surprise to see someone swimming. They flew back over us and probably got an even bigger surprise to see Sibeal changing! Having been set an example I felt duty bound to do likewise. Bracing only tells apart of the story but very glad to have been for a swim at 74.4 degrees North!

Today's ice charts looking as though there may be some changes in our favour. Are the beginnings of thinning of the ice in the first, northern, part of Peel Sound though still very thick further South.

Our provisional plan is to head towards Resolute tomorrow 'night', aiming to arrive there for a brief visit on Thursday morning to re-stock of fresh food, propane gas and a few other bits and bobs we need. We would then hope to head of Peel Sound that evening. All this could easily change because the ice and weather are so critical and they change rapidly.

All in all, though another fantastic day. It was a real privilege to be in such an emotive and historic spot.