Overnight we did get a couple of kids dropping a few stones on deck but Sibeal was able to reason and charm them such that they soon stopped. Apparently this is a unique trick in Cambridge Bay but in the main we found the local kids here (and elsewhere) charming, interesting and polite.

When we got up this morning we checked with the cruise ship, the M/V Hanseatic if they still needed our diving help and they did. They sent one of their speedy Zodiacs to pick Andrew, Maire and I up. We had a briefing on the bridge with Captain Thilo Natke and Chief Officer Ulf Sodemann of their problem. They are a top-rated ice-strengthened vessel. They had not had any obvious problems nor an obvious collision with ice. However there was a problem with their port rudder. When it was supposed to be amidships (ie steering straight ahead) it was actually pointing 20-25 degrees to starboard (whilst the starboard rudder was doing what it was told). They cannot control the rudders independently but could isolate and lock the troublesome rudder. They needed an inspection of the rudder to see if there were any signs of physical damage etc.

Andrew donned his diving gear and we set off astern in a zodiac. Flag A (the universal flag indicating that a vessel has a diver down was raised) and perhaps more importantly strict instructions were given not to start the props nor move the rudder! Andrew made a thorough inspection of both rudders and could see no obvious sign of damage.

This was the information that they needed and would report back to base and their insurers. They would probably need to spend a day or two in dry dock but the nearest one was 3,000 miles away! They would however be able to continue their passage.

Whilst Andrew was diving, the captain noted that there were no towels nor blankets in the zodiac and sent for some to be sent to us- nice human touch. We were most impressed with the whole crew and its professionalism and set up.

After Andrew had done his deeds we were invited to dinner in the crew dining room with the captain. Fabulous diner. Being a German boat it seemed churlish not to have Bratwurst (sand to quote Mr Kerry, I'd hate to be described as a churl!) and it was great.

It was also interesting to hear that the German government has invested and supports its shipping industry- second in size only to the Chinese merchant fleet.

We were sent away with some fabulous goody bags and a box of precious fruit and veg that they had had flown in that day. Also some wine and whisky. Sibeal got some tobacco and all of us a team t-shirt and chocolates. All very kind, but also probably what Andrew's efforts deserved. Essentially however it is in our interests to be helpful to the likes of the Hanseatic, as up here there is VERY little help around and perhaps next time it could be us or another yacht who need their help and this was a rare example where a cruising yacht could help a big commercial ship.

We also got a look around the Hanseatic and I have to say it gave us a much more positive view of the whole cruise business, especially the "explorer section" that they deal in- ie not the usual Florida, Caribbean, Med circuit. Their crew must have some of the best jobs in commercial shipping going to a succession of fabulous places. From here they head to Alaska and then a variety of places in the Far East, Tahiti, Pacific including Easter Island and then the austral summer in the Antarctic before heading 4,000km up the Amazon almost as far as the Andes.

Every cabin has a computer with access to the charted position, radar and a forward-looking camera position. Most of the time the bridge is open to the passengers. Maire was even heard to say that she wouldn't mind a cruise on this sort of boat.

Whilst we were being dined (but not wined) on board, Sibeal was ashore and saw a great mixture of throat singing, drum dancing and arctic sports demonstrated in the school. Afterwards someone on the quay questioned whether she was "allowed" on board Young Larry!

By the evening Aeriel IV had arrived having had a lot of ice to deal with in Queen Maud where we had seen almost none. Didn't sound like dealing with this in the dark was much fun. Soon after them came another Swedish boat, Anna. Maire wants to meet up with them even more than we normally would, as they are musicians! There is a polish boat a bit further behind that we did not see and apparently a single handed New Zealander in a boat called Astral Express who is quite a bit behind.

In Peter's radio schedule we heard that Mathieu Bonnier is still making good progress but having rather more encounters with nature than is desirable in a rowing boat with close encounters with polar bears, whales and a walrus!

At 4pm local time we packed up and set off for Tuk. Two hours later the Hanseatic set off and they caught us up not too long after. They very kindly agreed to steer reasonably close of us to take pictures in all our gaff rigged sailing glory including topsail. We also wore our new Hanseatic team t-shirts. They were great sports and it was a pleasure to have been able to help them.

The high-resolution photos won't get to us until we are back in wi-fi range. We also have some great ideas of places to see on route based upon Captain Natke's 20 year+ experience.