Seven hours ago we left the island of Epi and it's wonderful villagers and made our way to Ambrym, some 42 miles north. Epi has been the highlight of our time in Vanuatu so far. The anchorage at Lamen Bay had been sold to us as the place to see dugongs. We didn't see any however, there were many turtles and dolphin. In fact, on going ashore, one of the familys' had a 'pet' turtle in a tin bath. Hmmmm ... we didn't dare ask. Along with a secondary boarding school, a primary school, a clinic, three churches, one co-op store (selling canned foods) and a baker - this village was pretty well catered for. 'Mum' would sometimes disappear off to tend her garden during the day (up to a couple of hours walk away), returning with any ripe produce towards the evening. 'Dad' would farm his coconut plantation producing copra in time for the arrival of the weekly boat - he gets 2,000 vatu (£14) per sack . A sheet of corragated iron (used in the drying of the coconut flesh) costs £28 plus shipping from Efate. Whilst in conversation with Timothy, the Chief of Lamen Bay, it was confirmed to us how the land lies with regards to the ni-Vans (Vanutans) attitude to work. Many Ni-Vans visit New Zealand to pick fruit in the orchards on north and south island. The company pays for the return flight and then gradually claws-back the cost from their salary. These trips are generally made when a child is off to boarding school and substantial fees are required. Otherwise, Timothy said what they see in New Zealand and on the yachts that arrive in the anchorage might be something of 'millionaires' to them but it's not a life they want. They like working in their gardens as and when necessary, Their food choice may be limited, but it is free. The same with living. Their homes may be basic but they don't have to be concerned with rent or a mortgage each month. They certainly seem content to us, they don't ask for anything (unless encouraged) and have not once complained about life. We met just three families in Epi and have come away laden down with pamplemousse, bananas, coconuts, oranges, papayas and island cabbage (pak choy). In return we gave marine glue, towels, exercise books, colouring pencils, clothes, cordial and balloons. Next update will be from the land-diving island of Pentecost.