2 clueless day skippers with Patience

Craggy Rocks, Caves and Snorkles

27 August 2019
Donna Smith
We are still thoroughly enjoying being here on the Maltese Islands. The wind is a bit flukey and we have been becalmed on more than one occasion but as this is such a tiny cruising area, we are never far from the next port or bay.

In fact, we have found many inlets to explore along the coasts of the three islands. One stunning anchorage is Santa Maria Bay, pictured here. It is on the North side of the smallest island Comino. It sits directly opposite the Port on the island of Gozo, so is pretty much protected from all sides. Large concrete mooring blocks have been dropped on the seabed that we can easily dive down to and attach a rope, so we don't even have to bother to set an anchor.

The water is crystal clear, with the added bonus that during the week, the bay is almost empty. There is a rather exclusive small sandy beach in one corner, but it's the barren, rugged landscape around it that we love. It is great to snorkel along, as the rocks and small caves provide plenty of shaded nooks and crannies for the marine life to hide. Also, walking up over the craggy ridge to the other side of the bay, allows you to peer over the steep sides of the rock to the large caves below. We stood for ages to watch the dive boats dropping off divers who disappeared into the deep blue sea, and then into the large caves, leaving a trail of bubbles behind them. We felt a tad jealous. Having carried dive tanks onboard Patience for two years and not using them, we decided to take them home in the camper. A mistake perhaps?

Two of our other favourite swimming anchorages so far, are on the main island of Malta. The first is just above Marsaxlokk, a bay called Il Hoffa z - Zghira. It is a popular spot, an almost circular cove cut in the sandy coloured rock. The bottom is sand, so as you sail in you are dazzled by the turquoise colour of the sea. The cove is a natural gem with nothing in it, no beach bar or holiday apartments. Again the rocky edges to the cove are great for snorkelling along, although in this bay the rock is smooth, with ridges and craters. There is a cave that has completely broken through to the next cove, leaving a doorway that you can walk through which is quite magical.

The second bay we love is on the Northwest side of Malta island, just West of Marfa Point. This also has a complicated name. It is called Ir Ramla Cirkewwa, although it is known by everyone as 'Paradise Bay. We did not know what to expect as another bay we visited called 'Pretty Bay', sadly didn't live up to its name. It was fairly pretty looking from the sea, but sitting on the sandy beach looking out to sea, mmm? You were looking at the dock, with four lines of cranes, loading containers 24/7. Not pretty at all.

Back to Paradise Bay. It was a Paradise Bay. The small sandy beach seamlessly joined the partially landscaped rocks, where locals and tourist sat under the shade of the trees. The snorkelling was the best we had experienced so far in Malta. We saw a ray, about 40cms from tip to tip. It sat on the seabed like a black kite, with a pointed tail instead of silk ribbon, yet once it started swimming it had the grace of any kite, taking flight in the water with elegance and grace. We saw fish of all shapes and sizes, the cheeky black Mollies darted around, while larger colourful fish popped their head out for a bit before sneaking back to the shade of their hiding place. I think someone must have told them this was Paradise Bay too.
Comments
Vessel Name: Patience
Vessel Make/Model: Moody376
Hailing Port: Haslar , Gosport , England
Crew: Ricky and Donna
About: 2024 Still clueless , but having fun !
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