There are many small islands within the lagoon of Fulaga. On one of the small islands lives an older fellow named Paoliosi. Other than two dogs and a chicken here and there, he lives on the island all by himself. He has relatives in the other villages, but prefers to be on his own most of the time. Unlike most Fijians his age, Paoliosi appears to be a very young 72 Â- and even bears a slight resemblance to Richard Gere! We (Charisma and ourselves) were a bit hesitant in anchoring out in front of his beach and going ashore to meet him Â- not sure if heÂ'd really appreciated having company and would prefer to be left alone. But we figured Â- what the heck. We had gotten to know just about everyone else in all three villages (and vice versa!), so we decided it was time to pay a visit to our last remaining Fulagan. So from Naivindamu, we motored the short distance, just over a mile, to PaoliosiÂ's island and threw down the hook just a few hundred feet from shore. We neednÂ't have worried. Paoliosi was extremely welcoming and a pleasure to get to know. We ended up spending an extra night anchored there because we enjoyed his company so much. Upon our first beach landing he met us with a big smile and a great bula. His English was very good Â- especially for someone who spends so much time alone! He gave us the full tour of his island. If you stroll very very slowly, you can stretch out the transit time across the island to about 10 minutes. It was so picturesque Â- little paths lined with pandana plants, a small but well kept plantation (a garden with taro and cassava plants), his main thatched hut was in pristine condition, and he had a little table surrounded by four benches where we sat for awhile and exchanged stories. As with everyone else in Fulaga, he was down to the very last of his fresh water supply. So we spent part of the day ferrying empty jugs to Orcinius to fill, and taking them back ashore to fill his larger 55 gallon drum . He was so appreciative.

He gave us a huge stalk of bananas Â- the best looking bananas we have ever seen! And asked if we might make him some banana bread. John did just that and made him up a batch of six large banana bread cupcakes. He was thrilled! Paoliosi also showed us how to harvest small clams on the beach. You just keep digging your fingers through the wet sand a few inches down and you find these small clams with a green fringe. He said they were very good eating. So later that afternoon Ann and I went out kayaking/paddle boarding over to one of his beaches. While sitting in the sand talking, we started digging through the sand around us and compiled a pretty good sized mound of clams. We had arranged to have sundowners with Paoliosi later that evening on his beach, so we decided to cook them up with some shallots and white wine and bring them in with us for an appetizer, along with some bread, hummus and JohnÂ's home made cheese. Later that afternoon we saw an outrigger pull up on the beach with three people in it. So we brought some extra soda and glasses to share. Come to find out it was his nephew (Jimmy), his wife (Emmi), and their son. They were there for the night to visit Paoliosi since it was FatherÂ's Day this coming Sunday. We had such a good time visiting with them Â- and the clams were a huge hit! They loved the sauce they were cooked in and were drinking it off the plate! At one point Paoliosi was hoarding the tupperware container full of clams all to himself, and didnÂ't look like he was going to share them anytime soon! So we asked Emmi if she would like some more clams. In a very soft voice she answered yes, but it was inappropriate for her or her husband to ask their Uncle to share them Â- according to Fijian custom! So John stepped in and shouted Â"Paoliosi pass the clams over hereÂ"! So he did as he was told by the bossy American, and John took a handful of clams out and put them on a plate and handed the plate to Paoliosi. He didnÂ't seem to mind and everybody got to enjoy a few more clams. Then Emmi saved the sauce to use on their rice for their dinner later. It was a great sunset on the beach and a very fun evening! We arranged to all go clamming for Â'the big clamsÂ' the next day around low tide Â- around 10am. Then share one last meal together.

We all met on the beach the next day with snorkels in hand. Paoliosi and Jimmy showed us what to look for under the water to go after the larger clams. In closer to shore we found some just sitting on top of the sand, but as you go deeper they are usually just under the surface of the sand. It takes a bit of time to get a handle on exactly what you need to look for to know there is a clam underneath. Jimmy, of course, was bringing them in in droves. And John was even doing quite well. Bob and I on the other hand, maybe found 10 clams between us. It didnÂ't help that I was afraid to stick my bare hand under the sand Â- not knowing what strange things might be lurking just below. We must have gathered up at least 30 pounds worth of clams. We put 3-4 dozen back in the water in the shallow area near the beach so Paoliosi could easily retrieve them a few days later. Then we divided up the remainder between Jimmy & Emmi, and ourselves. We took our bunch back to the boat to clean and cook up for lunch. Bob whipped up an excellent clam fettuccini that we took into the beach to share with everyone for a late lunch.

As we were sitting around after lunch on their woven mat in the shade, Ann was being her usual talkative self, and chatting away with Emmi while Paoliosi was sitting a few feet away. Out of the blue, Paoliosi raised his hand out in front of him as if switching something off and announced Â"Shut off the TVÂ"! Ann went silent, and I just about died from laughter! It actually worked! Man did we all get a kick out of that! Paoliosi had quite a few amazing observations and words of wisdom to share, but this was definitely the icing on the cake! So now if anybody needs to politely ask Ann to stop talking, all they need to do is ask her to turn off the TV and she will understand. It works great!

Lisa