Photo: Humpback whale, Darby Channel.

The weather forecast is for 30-40 knots out of the northwest, but we're heading south down Fitz Hugh Sound where we've never found much wind before so we leave anyway.

We motor out Kwakshua Channel and raise sail just before reaching Fitz Hugh Sound. At first the wind is gusty and strong and we wonder if we'll need to change sails. But soon it backs off and we have a pleasant downwind sail wing-and-wing all the way to Darby Channel. There we are entertained by several humpback whales diving in front of us. It's hard not to think of that South African boat that had the whale land on it but it's still thrilling to see them.

We sail up Darby Channel and through Darby Narrows where we're forced to start the engine to stem a strong current. We turn a corner to see Dawson's landing strung along the shore. The Landing is a floating complex of store, fuel dock and houses, not unlike many similar complexes that once dotted these waters, serving fishermen and loggers. Now they serve sports fishermen, fishing lodges and yachties like us. There's a collection of mostly powerboats tied up at the dock but there's plenty of room for Osprey and we join them.

In the store we buy blueberries, honey dew melon, tomatoes and ice. We wander the aisles pushing a tiny grocery cart looking with amazement at fancy canned goods, exotic cookies and a surprising collection of cookware.