Photo: Osprey in Quigley Creek cove.

Leaving Shearwater we weren't sure which route we would take north: the traditional Inside Passage, up Princess Royal and Grenville Channels, or what I call the outside-inside passage, a series of outer channels farther west.

Steve wanted to sail and the outer channels offered more opportunity. The channels are wider there and the islands on the west lower, blocking less of the wind while still offering protection from ocean swells.

"We took the Inside Passage last year," Steve reminded me. The weather forecast was for northerly winds, turning light. There was no guarantee we'd be able to sail, but the chances were greater. And at least we'd have pleasant weather. The outside inside would be our route.

We anchored for the first night in Laredo Sound, at the mouth of Quigley Creek, a tight little anchorage surrounded by small islands. Morning brought mist and low clouds and surprisingly light southerly winds. We motored then sailed north as the wind picked up. We saw no other boats and no sign of civilization -- not even a lone house -- until northern Laredo Channel when the cruise ship Zuiderdam passed us. Here we were in wilderness being passed by a small city!

Steve wanted to anchor in Dunn Passage on the north end of Campania Island. I preferred the southerly McMicken Inlet, because although Dunn is well protected, its tightness and surrounding trees block views of Campania's scenic rockbound mountains.. But the clouds were so low, we couldn't see the mountains anyway and Dunn Passage was 9 miles farther. We needed to make distance.

The clouds lifted as we entered Dunn Passage. Too late to turn back. As we motored in, I went up on deck to get the anchor ready. I was surprised when Steve motored past our regular anchoring spot, turning into a side channel, then winding through a labyrinth of islands. We rounded a corner and there were the mountains of Campania. Not as dramatic as at McMicken but still there.