Voyages North

03 June 2018
22 September 2017 | Posted in Seattle
08 September 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
18 August 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
17 August 2017 | Olympia
22 August 2016 | posted at Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
08 July 2016 | Posted at Ucluelet

Nuchatlitz -- not so isolated. June 29, 2012.

05 July 2012 | posted at Kyuquot
Elsie Hulsizer
Photo: The grave of a Spanish influenza victim.

I grabbed a tree root and pulled myself up the steep bank. The soft soil giving way under my boot. An hour earlier we had been at Bob Devault's house, telling him we planned to take advantage of the low tide and walk out to one of Nuchatlitz's outer islands. "There's an old cemetery out there," he said, and then told us how to find it. "I,m going for a row," he said.

On the island we met Rod and Monique, residents of Nuchatlitz, who didn't know about the cemetery. We were just trying to remember how to find it when Bob rowed around the corner and beached his boat.

With Bob as a guide, we were soon climbing the steep bank. At the top we found a grove of multi-trunked cedars that seemed to be growing more sideways than up. Just beyond them was a wrought iron fence surrounding a gravestone.

I approached the gravestone and brushed the moss from the writing:

In memory of
Edward F. Smith
Died September 21, 1918
Aged 16 years

"It was the time of the Spanish Influenza," said Bob. "It's a good reminder we're not as isolated out here as we might think."

People often ask me what my favorite place on the west coast of Vancouver Island is. At first when I got that question, I demurred; there's so many wonderful places on the coast it was hard to choose. But really, Nuchatlitz is my favorite. Whenever we return here, I'm struck by its beauty, even on gray days like we've had this year. The many low islands and rocks allow you to look over them to the ocean beyond and that gives a feeling of openness which is restful to the eyes. But those same rocks and islands protect the anchorage from the weather which also gives a feeling of peace. And then there's that feeling of timelessness and the sweep of history -- in the prow of an old burial canoe on a promontory and the windswept village island. And now the grave is a reminder of recent history.
Vessel Name: Osprey
Vessel Make/Model: Annapolis 44 sloop
Hailing Port: Seattle
Crew: Steve and Elsie Hulsizer (author of Glaciers, Bears and Totems and Voyages to Windward)
Elsie and Steve Hulsizer have sailed northwest waters since arriving in Seattle via sailboat from Boston in 1979. [...]
2017: local cruising including South Puget Sound and San Juan Islands 2016:north up West Coast VI, across QC Sound to central BC coast 2015: trip to SE Alaska 2014: Seymour and Belize Inlets through Nakwakto Rapids 2013: SE Alaska and back. 2012: from Seattle up the west coast of Vancouver [...]
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Osprey's Photos -