Voyages North

22 September 2017 | Posted in Seattle
08 September 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
18 August 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
17 August 2017 | Olympia
22 August 2016 | posted at Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
08 July 2016 | Posted at Ucluelet

Mouat Cove, Barry Inlet. July 25, 2012

05 August 2012
Photo: the sailboat Tenacious anchored in Mouat Cove

Iain Lawrence, writing in his book Far Away Places: Fifty Anchorages on the Northwest Coast, describes Mouat Cove as a scene from the Group of Seven (Canadian landscape painters) with rocky islets and twisted trees. Fog and a northwesterly wind in Seaforth Channel chased Lawrence and his wife, Kristin, into the cove. All night they heard the foghorn on nearby Ivory Island blowing its mournful wail.

"Few people come here," Lawrence wrote. He doubted the cove would ever change.

A northwest wind was chasing fog into Seaforth Channel the day we went into Mouat Cove too. We'd last been there in 1999 and like Lawrence, I didn't expect it to change. As we rounded the corner into the cove, I expected to see an empty anchorage. But there, just beyond one of the little islands, was the sailboat Tenacious.

"I thought we'd see them someplace," said Steve. We'd been looking for the boat since we'd arrived on this coast, remembering our 2011 trip here and the pleasant visits we'd had with Pat and Lydia, Tenacious's owners.

Half an hour after we anchored, Pat and Lydia were climbing on board Osprey, Lydia carrying a big bowl of warm-from-the-stove prawns.

Like us, Lydia and Pat are voracious readers, especially of history, and soon we were deep in discussions of Lewis and Clark, Alexander Mackenzie, the politics of transcontinental railroads and why A.C. current rather than D.C. is the modern standard.

The prawns were delicious. Even Jigger got his share. I'm afraid he is now addicted.

We left Lydia and Pat in the clearing fog the next morning, with Pat working on replacing the brushes on their electric windlass. As we left, I looked around the little cove with its islets and trees and thought that it looked like we had last seen it in 1999. But there was a difference beyond the presence of another boat. The foghorn on Ivory Island didn't disturb our sleep. In a cost-saving measure, the Canadian government had disconnected all the fog horns.
Vessel Name: Osprey
Vessel Make/Model: Annapolis 44 sloop
Hailing Port: Seattle
Crew: Steve and Elsie Hulsizer (author of Glaciers, Bears and Totems and Voyages to Windward)
Elsie and Steve Hulsizer have sailed northwest waters since arriving in Seattle via sailboat from Boston in 1979. [...]
2017: local cruising including South Puget Sound and San Juan Islands 2016:north up West Coast VI, across QC Sound to central BC coast 2015: trip to SE Alaska 2014: Seymour and Belize Inlets through Nakwakto Rapids 2013: SE Alaska and back. 2012: from Seattle up the west coast of Vancouver [...]
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Osprey's Photos -