Photo: Sailing in Hecate Strait: after the worst is over.

Rough seas and strong winds are what Hecate Strait is known for. After our crossing, I can say it's an accurate reputation.

We made our crossing from Borrowman Bay on the West Coast of Aristazabel Island to Rose Harbour, near the south end of the Queen Charlottes: a 76 mile passage, 64 miles in the open water of Hecate Strait.

The weather report predicted patchy fog and northwest winds at 15-25 knots, a direction that would put us on a close reach, not the most comfortable point of sail, but better than sailing to close hauled.

The first hint that our crossing would not be smooth came at 6 a.m. when leaving the anchorage we already had 15 knots of wind instead of the usual morning calms. By the time we exited Wright Passage, the wind was blowing 25 knots, spray was flying over the dodger, and Osprey was hard over under full main and 120 Genoa; it was time to take a reef. Our speed was 7.8 knots. We took the first reef and were still doing 7.8 knots -- and heeling only slightly less. By then the winds were in the mid 30s. Steve went forward to change the jib to the self-tender and we were still doing 7.8 knots and heeling even more. We took the second reef and I watched the wind speed climb to 42 knots.

The second reef reduced our heeling and kept us sailing at 7 knots. Wind howled through the rigging, waves crashed against the hull and the boat pitched and tossed in the waves. A uniform gray sky covered the sun. (At least we didn't have fog). The boat did fine for the next six hours. Its crew did less well. I felt seasick unless I was either looking at the horizon or lying flat on my back on a bunk. Steve was below on the settee when the boat lurched, his feet slid out from under him on the slick cabin sole, his foul weather gear slipped on the upholstery, and he landed on his tail on the floor. He's still complaining of a sore tail bone ten days later.

Twenty miles from Rose Harbour, the wind slackened to 20-25 knots and we shook out the reefs. Ten miles later we changed to the larger jib. Leftover seas still slammed against the hull and splashed over the bow and it took us a long time to change the jib. A few miles later, Steve looked at the knotmeter showing 3 knots and said, "Looks like we'll be motoring soon." We heard a tremendous crash and the mainsail came down in a rush. The halyard had worn through where it connects to the shackle on top. "I guess we motor now," said Steve. At least this time, unlike the time it broke a year ago, the halyard didn't hang up inside the mast and we had a brand new halyard we would be able to replace it with once we got to port.

We motored into Houston Steward Channel leading to Rose Harbour as humpback whale lobtailed in the distance, slapping the water over and over with its tail. It couldn't be nearly as happy as we were to get into harbor.