We wake in beautiful calm Totaranui Bay after a restful night.

Row to shore to check out the visitor centre. Young German parents arrive, ask if they sell bread. Jim rows back to Sonsie with the Dad to get a frozen loaf for them.

It's a pretty quiet campground at this time of year. It's a long drive over unsealed roads with steep hills and most tourists don't bother coming this way. A few tourist excursion boats arrive over the course of the day, and extend their anteater ramps so day trippers can come ashore for a brief while.

We walk past plenty of wekas and pukakos to the southern look out then return along the beach. The tide is low. There are many rivulets, and the shore is alive with gulls and oystercatchers all having a field day, poking and prying up clams galore. We swim again.

After supper on Sonsie we row back to shore while the tide is still low enough for another walk. The 1km Pukatea walk consists of stunning old growth and superb biodiversity as the it was one of the only areas in New Zealand that settlers didn't slash and burn !

At sunset all is calm. We view the overgrown Maori kumara pits behind the last campsite. There's a fabulous orange full moon on the calm water.

Row back past Sonsie to say Hi to Nigel and Linda on Sirius lite who have anchored near us for the night. Discuss our upcoming differing directions.

At 2230 a 10-12 knot SE wind blows in. That's not that much wind but within half an hour the calm is shattered as, being in a shallow, wide open expanse of a bay the fetch is piling waves upon us. It's amazing how fast the sea can change! Sonsie and Sirius start going mad, bouncing away up, down, this way, that way, rolling and pitching most uncomfortably.