There's nothing quite like the feeling of entering a harbor after a long passage. A combination of excitement, relief, and anticipation of what comes next. That was certainly the case as we entered the harbor at Atuona, Hiva Oa.

As we entered, it was clear that the small bay was packed with boats of every type... Fast catamarans like a new Outremer 55, a variety of small monohulls, local fishing and small ferry boats, and a very international crowd, based on the flags flying off their sterns.

We did a lap around the anchorage and attempted to shoehorn ourselves against the east shore of the bay by setting a stern anchor to keep us out of the way of the boats around us. Most other boats were not stern tied, so it was a bit of a risk. After a 30 minute shit show attempting to get the stern anchor set, Rina vetoed the attempt and we went to the front of the bay and anchored comfortably given the east winds at 15 knots. Not the best place, given the swell, and we would need to move next week when the supply ship comes in.

By this time we were running late to check in with the gendarme with Sandra from Hiva Oa Yacht services as our agent. We dumped 4 laundry bags, 2 bags of garbage, backpacks and all four of us into the dinghy and made for the dinghy dock. The infrastructure in the bay has improved greatly in the 16 years since we were here last. We used to drag our dinghy up into the muddy shore or anchor it off the bank. Now there is a nice dinghy dock for tying up.

We were met by Sandra, who we last saw 16 years ago. No, she did not remember us, LOL. We piled into her 90's Land Rover and off we went to the gendarme. The crew was absolutely tickled to be on land and riding in a car. Just like getting your sea legs, getting your land legs back takes some time. For the next couple of hours, the sensation was like being drunk, as far as our inner ears were concerned.

Sondra and the local gendarme were very efficient getting us checked in. As is the case in France and most of French Polynesia, we try to speak French when we can, and often times officials will wait for us to butcher the language, only to find out that they speak perfect English.

After checking in we walked... oh, how it felt to walk again!... down to the beach and had a wonderful lunch at Chez Iris, with a hand written menu on a white board... a very "snack shack" vibe but the food was wonderful.

We next headed to the local grocery store only to arrive just as they closed for lunch. The entire island shuts down from noon to 2:30 during weekdays and only opens on the weekends Saturday morning. How to kill the time... Corey dug up French from his youth in Montreal and got directions to a bar/restaurant that was open. We pulled up to Mokai O Mango and promptly ordered a pitcher, or three, of Hinano Beer. We stumbled out of the restaurant and walked along the beach, then headed to Magazin GAUBIL for a restock of our fresh fruits and veggies.

The supply chain in the Marquesas has improved dramatically since our last trip here. The stores here rival the local grocery stores in small Mexican towns. Fresh fruit and veggies are still limited in selection, but not quantities... Cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, bananas and cucumbers were plentiful. Oh, and pamplemousse! Think of a cross between a grapefruit and an orange.... A very Marquesan treat.

We read that if you spend enough with the local grocery stores, they will give you a ride back to the dock, saving an hour walk schlepping groceries. Sure enough, Corey's French was good enough to confirm a ride. 15 minutes later a flat bed truck showed up and a young guy took Rina and I back to our dinghy, while he returned to pick up Nic and Corey. We went back to the boat, dropping Rina and the groceries and picked up Leeloo for a cruise around the bay. She loves dinghy rides, but can't go to shore until we get her checked out by a vet in Papeete in six weeks' time.

All in all a wonderful arrival. Check out the gallery for pictures of our first day. Our blog entries will be less frequent going forward, as we take time to relax and enjoy ourselves over the coming weeks. Thanks for following us over the past three weeks, we have enjoyed all your comments. - allan


Land HO! It was extraordinary to see Hiva Oa looming larger in the growing light of dawn. As is often the case, the last 5% takes the longest as the remaining 3 hours ticked by slowly. But what rewards. What a beautiful island chain this is. So many of the most rugged features of Hawaii projected on a greatly condensed landscape.

The final step was to anchor. After 2800 miles of no boats anywhere, we were now trying the equivalent of parking at the mall on December 24th but instead with a 26' wide boat in a surging anchorage. It seemed at the very moment we were under the most stress the temperature went up 10 degrees as Allan and Nic tried valiantly to get the stern anchor down. Finally we settled on a different spot within stones throw of the breakwater and commenced the mad dash to the gendarme to check in.

From boat, to dinghy, to rustic Jurassic Park Land Rover in 3 minutes. We careened into town on what felt like 2 wheels and in quick order were checked in. The town is what I expect North Shore Oahu looked like 50 years ago. Such a great slow vibe with locals proactively offering advice when they realized we had not factored in the town being closed from noon-2. So off we went to the one open restaurant for what might be the best beer I've had this year. Cold sweat clung to the pitcher as I poured a celebratory round.

Yes there are faster, more convenient ways to get to Hiva. But I wouldn't trade this voyage for anything. So glad to have made the 19-day trek. Slightly more glad we've arrived.

Thanks Allan & Rina for the first phase of the adventure. Nic, it's been great serving with you. I'll recommend to management your promotion to Sr. Boatswain. - Corey


What a wild ride! 19 days 2800 miles at sea and all I can sea is land! Hiva Oa smells and looks beautiful. If you've ever been on a sailboat for long periods of time, you know how it feels! What a relief, first things first, dinghy to land and pee standing up! Welcome to land. I need a cold Hinano and fresh rolled ciggy!!! It was an amazing adventure with some really great friends that I will have for a lifetime! I couldn't have asked for a better crew, so many laughs, amazing meals, and sunsets! Thank you Allan and Rina for this great opportunity, its one I will always remember! Thanks for letting me be a part of this crew and illiohale family!! And Corey, well were going pretty steady these days, he makes me a bunch of iced espressos! Its been an honor to be your 3rd arm crew mate! We are ready to explore town and this beautiful island in paradise! I'm So grateful for this crossing, another adventure in the books! - Nico

"Travel is about the gorgeous feeling of teetering in the unknown" Tony B.