Ventotene and Ponza
We decided to break the trip to Isola Ponza with a stopover at Isola Ventotene. Rich in history for several notable undesirables being exiled here. Julia, daughter of Caesar Augustus, Nero, Octavia wife of Nero and Flavia grand-daughter of Domitan. It is said that Julia was sent by her own father because of her adulterous ways, but she managed to have a large and sumptuous mansion built to entertain her lovers. Her second husband, Agrippa, is thought to be the architect of the tiny harbour hewn from the rock, parts of which are still in evidence, like the galley sheds dug into the rocks behind one of the original walls. There are few other Roman harbours built like this. As well as the harbour the Roman engineers built two underground aquaducts to supply the town with water.
Close by is Isola di Stefano and until quite recently used as a penal settlement, known as “Devil’s Island”. Under Mussolini, those of a different political persuasion were incarcerated both here and on Ventotene. The building on Stefano is in tact and tours are done of the island. Our trip was motor assisted as the wind was only 6knts from the west. The anchorage was a surprise of dozens of yachts of all shapes, sizes and method of propulsion. Diving is big here as well with 4 establishments on the waterfront vying for business. Ashore we found the usual line up of trattoria, ristorante and gelataria.
The next day we sailed or should say motor sailed on to Isola Ponza, a 22nm trip. Again the anchorage was crowded and when we counted late afternoon there were in excess of 100 boats. Ponza has a water issue and sometimes in the summer, water is rationed and the supply to the marina fingers is not always potable. Hard to miss on the approaches to the harbour is a cemetery, the vault kind, built up on the side of the western headland. Settled in 313 BC by the Romans, Ponza too became a destination for exiles. Those of any note were the demented brothers of Caligula and his sister Agrippina who was Nero’s mother. After the demise of Rome, the island was pillaged by pirates until the Bourbons attempted to resettle the island in the 19th century. Tourism is giving the island a new lease of life. Diving is again a big attraction and on the NW side of the island is the wreck of a British cargo ship carrying German prisoners of war. Most on board were lost. Ashore the waterfront was not as attractive as was Ventotene, but we did find the gelataria for our hit of icecream. Numerous day tripping boats full of tourists played dodgem’ amongst all the anchored boats. The number of near misses were high as windsurfers, dinghies, tenders, hire boats plus the tourist boats darted in and out