We checked out getting our paperwork ready for exiting French Polynesia. Mah roo roo ( roll the rs ) and Na - Na.....translation.....thank you and goodbye and while that may have been the case we were planning to call at Maupihaa on the way to Palmerston Island. The decision to bypass the southern Cook Islands was made after we found we had to get permission from 4 departments prior to arrival with it being a criminal offence to arrive without said permission. Penalty....a fine and or jail. Anyway Palmerston is on our way and although part of the Cooks,they don't get a mention about arriving there. Anyway back to Maupihaa... What a challenge the entrance was. It just happened that it was the highest tide of the year and all the water coming over the reef has only the entrance to go out an normally runs about 6knts. We sat outside for a couple of hours waiting for the current to relent before we made our approach. White water either side and with less than three quarter throttle we were going backwards. Very narrow but got between the markers and gunned it. Very stressful but the anchorage was worth it. We sat in this idyllic spot waiting for the weather to move on to Palmerston, eating lobsters and fish from the locals.....what a life, even tho' our schedule is being shot to pieces.