SV Panta Rhei Retirement Trip

We are in a part of Fiji that is infamous for its coral reefs and beautiful clear water with many anchorages. These islands are not like
cruising in the Pacific NW where a anchorage is safe and protected. Here we have anchorages that have limited protection and are
generally exposed to wind and waves that do not come from a preferred direction. This means we roll while at anchor. But in exchange
for this little difficulty, the water is clear and there are not many other boats. The villagers are welcoming.

We travel generally between 10 am and 3 pm when it is easier to see the coral reefs that obstruct safe passage. Wind, overcast, waves
all degrate the ability to see the reefs. We have maps, lots of them, but they all say different things and they are not well registered. Still,
they are much better than nothing.

Our first night on Mana Island involved a marked but tortureous channel into a rolly anchorage frequented by ferries and small resort
boats. Things were fine until the tide rose and then we started to roll. We managed some good snorkeling on the reef at the entrance but
decided to move to Navadra Island the next day.

Navadra had only us in its anchorage. We managed to do a "skinny snorkel" in crystal clear water with wonderful coral and fish. We
even walked the sandy beach. Just as Karen was getting out of the water, a cruise ship arrived (or so Karen said). I think it was actually
a trawler with a single couple aboard but without a swim suit it probably looked like a cruise ship!

The next night found us at Waya island at a resort called the Octopus Resort. We enjoyed a nice lunch and drinks overlooking their
anchorage. We managed a scuba dive off our swim step with only a short swim to a coral bommie that was beautiful. We were anchored
in a sandy patch. This close proximity to a place to dive is pretty unusual. Normally we have to take the dinghy to a dive site.

Next up was diving with Manta Rays in Tokatokauna Pass while anchored at Octocula Bay. These were big rays (maybe 20 feet across)
and they were doing loops, rolls, and circles around us with their mouths wide open. Apparently they come here to feed. Some were quite
curious about us and converged to us until we could touch them. The pass has high current so we were drifting with our dinghy towed
behind us while swimming with the Manta Rays. Of course the water was shallow and had lots of coral and fish to "fly" over. This was a
must do thing.

The next night took us to SomoSomo on Naviti Island. The weather was changing and the wind was increasing. Rain was in the
forecast. But when we arrived it was smooth water and light wind. Not for long though. Local men in Pangas met us. They had lobster to
sell and wanted to know if we had biscuits. Karen has been told that there was a particular kind of biscuit that was wanted and she had
some aboard...specially purchased. Everyone was SOOO happy. We got two very large lobsters for dinner. I'll supply a picture when I
have internet.

We are still here near Somosomo. The rain has come and there are thunderstorm winds, peak speed so far is 37 knots. That is a lot at
anchor with nowhere to run. Remember we have reefs all around us. This first storm hit us around noon. More will come and the forecast
is for the worst to hit us around 2 am. That won't be fun. We do have our new 110 pound anchor and we are very glad for that. Rain and
wind are in the forecast for the next several days. I expect to hunker down and not move until this is over.

We don't have cellular internet here so I am going to try sending this out using the irridium phone.

Position: 17 04'54.53 S, 177 16'37.90 E
Course: Stopped.