We had a great couple of days in Charlottetown. We did the whole tourism thing, Cows Ice Cream, Confederation Centre, historic street theatre.... I got to go for a 20km wild goose chase for a dinghy tow ring that one marine store told another that they had in stock, so I rode the bike all the way to Winslow to be told that they could order the part and it would be there in a few days.... I was NOT amused.

Marine parts and accessories are very hard to get, surprising given all the boating that goes on, the chandleries of Ontario a horns of plenty by comparison. If you're going to cruise down here, bring spares....

We ate well in Charlottetown, we had a fantastic lunch at Gahan House and stocked up on their Iron Horse brown ale, got some good local cheese , bread and pickled fiddleheads at a local deli and enjoyed the first real days of summer.

Heading out of PEI we actually got to sail out Hillsborough Bay where the wind left us and we motored to Pictou Island where again we got to hoist sails all the way in to Pictou.

We arrived on the Friday of the weekend-long lobster carnival, lucky to score a dock at Hector Quay which was packed with Coors-swilling, country-music-on-the-stereo stink-potters who kept complaining that the 15 amp electrical service was blowing its circuit breakers every time their air conditioning kicked in.... Oh well, justice was done when a piper decided to serenade the marina at 8am! (Oh, and the pump out doesn't work).

There are no stores anywhere near downtown Pictou and the Marina. Everything is several miles out of town at the highway. We had a great lobster dinner on Friday night at a community fundraiser for the Hector and survived on our fairly well stocked galley.

We visited the Hector Heritage Centre on Saturday morning and it was well worth the effort. The museum traces the history if the scots in Nova Scotia from the '45 through the clearances to the desperate immigration to escape the oppression of the Brits. The ship itself was a bit of a disappointment. The masts are out if her for much needed work, she's had no maintenance since launch in 2000 and she sorely needs it.

We headed out Saturday morning just as the boat races were getting into high gear, loud, obnoxious race boats with open exhaust... Not my thing. We motor-sailed up the coast to Cape George and around into Ballantyne's Cove.

Ballantyne's Cove is a tiny, stunningly beautiful little fish port that owes its existence primarily to Tuna. Blue Fin is caught here, cleaned, auctioned and flown to Japan where it hits the best sushi tables within about 48 hours. There is a cute little interpretive centre, a marina building with showers, washrooms and laundry, diesel and gas but no water or ice (Oh, and the pump out doesn't work). There is a small canteen that is open from about noon to 7. And gorgeous scenery.

On Sunday we headed directly across St.Georges Bay to the Canso Strait, again there was no wind but we did have a large pod of pilot whales to entertain us. Locking through the causeway was a breeze, we held position in the centre of the lock while the closed the north doors, opened the south doors and swung the bridge. We proceeded toPort Hawksbury and tied up at the Canso Strait Yacht Club.

Port Hawksbury was another typical maritime town where the government three a pile if money into redeveloping the waterfront only to let it run down.... In Port Hawksbury they forced the yacht club to give up their land, tore down their clubhouse, built a brand new marina centre and leased docks to the members. Within3 years the docks had deteriorated to the point where the insurers refused coverage. They persuaded the club to take over and manage the place, but with only 20 members, it's not easy. The facility is gorgeous, they have everything (Oh, of course the pump out doesn't work). It was the end of the town festival so we were treated to an awesome fireworks display right over the harbour.

We slept late on Monday, had a great breakfast and then visited the bakery that had just started upon the old train station on the waterfront. Picked up fresh baguette, bagels and rye bread and then cast off bound for Bras d'Or. (Where we have been assured the pump out works.)