Minnie B

Making it up as we go along

28 December 2024
06 September 2023
22 August 2023
12 July 2023
04 July 2023
29 June 2023
06 June 2023 | Vliho Bay
04 December 2022
18 September 2022
18 September 2022 | Cavtat
16 September 2022
09 September 2022
04 September 2022 | Mt Ilias

Exploration Determination

28 December 2024
Phil Heaton
We returned to the UK in mid-October, but for a host of reasons we have been incredibly busy and every time we have attempted to finish our 2024 blog, something has intervened. However, we decided that we would take a holiday from all other matters over the Christmas period, and so we can conclude 2024's final episode.

The storm finally abated in Messolonghi, and having been thwarted by the weather twice, we determined to visit some new places. We departed on Monday 2nd September and headed west to Ormos Oxia and the head of the bay where we could anchor in 4 - 6 metres, but after three attempts to dig in we gave up. The proliferation of mooring buoys was probably an indicator that the holding was poor. So, on to Porto Skala Sud on Cephalonia. It was certainly new, and we anchored in 8 metres with good holding. There didn't seem to be much ashore, but we stayed two nights as we were in "take it easy" mode.

Day one of our Exploration Determination scored high on being new places but not so high on the value scale, but we were not doing Exploration Desperation. Anyway, onwards and upwards ... well, at least south and westwards.

Our next stop was at Spartia. This was our payback time - a lovely spot, anchored close by towering white cliffs with a good spot to tie up the dinghy ashore and a couple of restaurants. We stayed three nights, swimming, relaxing and taking trips ashore to the two restaurants.

The main town of Cephalonia beckoned - a mere 16nm to Argostoli arriving on 7th September. There is an excellent anchorage, and we were in 4 metres with good holding, which was put to the test a couple of days later when we had a strong southerly overnight. The town has lots of restaurants and bars, good cafes and excellent provisioning. Along the quay many turtles hang out, so often there are crowds of tourists staring into the water. We stayed five nights and met up with James and Liesel on Bellatrix - always fun.

The prospect of northerly wind meant we needed to move, and having received a health alert regarding Norma's 94 years old mum, Betty, we decided to position ourselves closer to Preveza and the airport in case we needed to scarper back to the UK at top speed. Alarms did not sound, and Betty is now right as rain ... well as right as rain as the average 94-year-old. Back to Vliho Bay it was then - 70nm and sadly not much wind.

We decided that we would stick around the northern part of the Ionian Inland Sea and visited one of our favourite spots, Mytika where we had a great meal at the Café Ouzeri O Pharos; father catches and cleans the fish, mum cooks the food and daughter serves. Mytika is a throw back to what Greece was like many years ago. There are few tourists, and it has not been overdeveloped with holiday accommodation. There is an excellent supermarket for provisioning.

Hm. So Exploration Determination was a bit short-lived, but it did happen and we were content.

After that, we flitted between Vathy, Ithaca where we had a couple of nice walks and Vliho before it was time to had back to Preveza to put MINNIE B to bed and fly back to the UK. In Vliho we saw our friends who live there, Horatio and Orkide, along with AA. We met up with various cruising friends and had a highly sociable time.

Fate then intervened and gave us a cracking sail for our trip to Preveza. The safety certificate for the lifting bridge over the Levkas Canal had run out so it was not opening, and this meant a 44nm trip around the west coast of Lefkada. Having motored along the south coast, as we turned north an easterly wind of 15 to 25kts kicked in, so in flat water we had a terrific reach all the way to the Preveza channel, mostly 7-8kts boat speed.

Alas it was time to sort out MINNIE B for the winter, arranging for the liferaft to be serviced and for new standing rigging to be installed over the winter (with 10 years and 40,000nm of use it was time as well as needing to change the blocks at the masthead for the main halyard and topping lift).

We had a delightful cruising season even if all our aims at the start of the season had not been achieved. That's cruising - enjoy what gets thrown at you. We now look forward to the 2025 cruising season and who knows what exploration will ensue.

There and back again ... and again

31 August 2024
Phil Heaton
Our time in York and Northern Ireland flew by but it was great to catch up with family and friends, and we returned to Athens on Monday 15th July. We had a couple of nights in a hotel, and visited both old haunts and new places, and watched the Changing of the Guard at the war memorial. We found a great rooftop bar (MS Roof Garden) with a magnificent view of the Acropolis lit up at night. Lunch had to be in Monastraki at O Thanasis, first visited in 1973 by Phil and then in 1976 the two of us together. We ordered the Gyros which sadly were not as good as the were 50 years ago - like everywhere in Greece, they have started adding chips. We mentioned this when we had finished and they did kindly offer non-chip Gyros free, but by that stage we were too full. Next time we know to ask for no chips.

We took the coach back to Messolonghi and MINNIE B was fine, apart from a covering of Sahara red dust, which was quickly washed off.

We expected to leave after a few days of sorting and provisioning, but it was not to be. We had ordered some boat paint for delivery from the UK (ridiculously not available in the EU - no idea why as it is International Paints product) while we were in the UK. Unfortunately, DHL damaged the package and it had to be destroyed so replacements were sent, only to spend two weeks in Athens while DHL and Customs fiddled about. Our plan had been to head south and around the Peloponnese, but we decided it would be prudent to collect the paint. Instead of staying in Messolonghi we headed for Zakynthos (49nm).

Our first stop was Agios Nikolaos in the north-east where we tied up stern-to an our own anchor. It was good - free mooring, electricity if you needed it, water, laundry and wifi. Amazing. The only requirement was to eat at Dimitris's restaurant, which was actually quite good and not expensive.

We hired a car and toured the island - very, very busy with holidaymakers. The small monastery of Agios Georgios was quite charming with a tower and mosaics. We had thought of stopping at a few beaches and coves for a swim, but the car parking was horrendous. We settled for a recce of Keri beach as possible anchorage and a walk around Zakynthos town which exceeded expectations. The island has some quite dramatic scenery but is very much a holiday destination.

We sailed (32nm) down the west coast of the island and anchored at Keri for five nights - a pleasant place apart from the inconsiderate folk hiring small motor boats an driving through the anchorage at high speed. OCC couple Trip and Nicole von Hoffmann on Kalyra turned up and we spent a nice morning with them sharing information on places and OCC Port Officers.

On 7 August we returned to Messolonghi for the paint (60nm).

Plan A had been to go anti-clockwise around the Peloponnese, but having returned to Messolonghi we changed our minds and planned clockwise. Well, that didn't work out.

Leaving Messolonghi on Thursday 8 August we beat part of the way east off Patras and then passed under the marvellous Rio-Antirio Bridge, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. Bridge Control is on VHF Ch14 and provide instructions on which span to pass under.

Our first stop was after 30nm at Nafpaktos - a really charming spot with Venetian fortifications and a tiny, fortified harbour which was filled by a dredging barge. We anchored to the east of the harbour, but It turned out that the holding was a bit patchy and when the wind went into the west we upped anchor and moved to the west of harbour where the holding was good.

Then on 16nm to the small island Trizonia where there is an underdeveloped harbour/marina and berthing alongside - there are several tavernas/restaurants but no provisions to be bought. We stayed five nights and managed a walk to the south side of the island. Temperature was mostly 35-40C, so lots of water and shade. But, hey-ho why not go back to Messolonghi since the forecast was for easterly winds in the Gulf of Corinth and then Meltemi in the Saronic Gulf and the east side of the Peloponnese. So we did, on 15 August, anchoring in the lagoon (38nm).

We met some nice Brit cruisers so it turned out to be quite sociable.

Which Plan version we were on no longer mattered but off we went to explore the west side of the Peloponnese and see how far we might get.

Killini was our first anchorage (30nm) - quite sheltered from N/NW wind behind the harbour close to the shore. Our 0.7m draft with keel up and rudder folded came in handy as we dropped in 2 metres - a change of wind direction overnight and we ended up in less than 1m. All was well.

Katakolon (32nm) was our first primary destination so that we could take the train to Olympia - we had delayed in Messolonghi to find a window in Katakolon when there would be no cruise ships and their thousands of passengers heading for Olympia.

Olympia is a marvel. In many ways it is another significant Greek and Roman ruin but it has been carefully excavated and there is a superb Archaeological museum housing such as the statues from the pediments to the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Hera.

Then there was the weather forecast a storm cell heading for the southern Peloponnese. We had intended to go on to Pilos and Kalamata, but given the sea temperature, air temperatures, and what happened at Porticello, Sicily with the Bayesian sinking prudence appeared and we headed .... back to Messolonghi (56nm) with a lovely reach across the Gulf of Patras. We are experiencing thunderstorms, heavy rain and hailstones for an hour or two late in the afternoon and evening.

However, on Wednesday 28 August we drove to Diakopto and took the narrow-gauge rack railway which climbs 750 metres over 22km to Kalavrita, through the Vouraikos Gorge. We took the return train to Megalo Spilaio and then walked the remaining 12.5km to Diakopto. The route is either on the track itself, using the sleepers as stepping stones or beside it, and goes through tunnels and over bridges. Marvellous. A night and dinner at a small hotel in Diakopto rounded off a lovely trip.

Anyway, all is well, and we are planning to leave Messolonghi for ....


Photos to follow when decent wifi

OCC 70th Anniversary Greek Rendezvous and a cruising pause

03 July 2024
Phil Heaton
The Ocean Cruising Club was founded in 1954 by Humphrey Barton and friends, known as Hum's Chums. Many were also members of the Royal Cruising Club, but they felt that a club for Blue Water long distance cruising would bring similarly experienced people together, and particularly to record and share cruising information. So, for our celebration some 25 cruisers assembled in Vliho Bay, Levkas for celebrations 4-6 June, and the craic was mighty.

We were eleven boats, of which five were both OCC and RCC, with Graham and Tracey, Quasar IV of Lleyn (Graham organised everything); Heugh and Fiona, Alethia; Tim and Maria, Mina2; Nigel and Maureen, Deja Vu; Lane and Kay, Mai Tai; David and Sally, and Venetia, Alcedo of Ryme; David and Diane, Kiera and Fynn, Tiki Tour; Piers and Susie, Lir; James Bellatrix; Richard, Walidada; and us.

Pre-dinner drinks at Vliho Yacht Club on 4 June was followed by an excellent dinner. Phil (as Vice Commodore, OCC) made a short speech on the formation of the OCC - our motto of "Brevity is a virtue" was adhered to and the assembly probably appreciated that more than the content.

The following morning we had a walk to Nidri Waterfall, which sadly was lacking water, but it's a pleasant walk and the gorge is quite impressive. Cooling drinks were taken at The Plane Tree café and lunch at the excellent The Barrel taverna in Nidri.

Our evening dinner at Elena Taverna was also excellent - there is a large dinghy dock, with helpful and welcoming staff and the food was very good.

A shorter walk next morning to Thea Café, Vliho, offered fantastic views over Vliho Bay and also towards Meganisi in the south. Luckily, the shorter walk was welcome as, little did we know it, this was the start of
a heatwave which rapidly built over the following week. A refreshing beer, or perhaps two, back at the Vliho Yacht Club brought an end to another, most enjoyable, Greek Rendezvous with discussions already
starting on 'next year's plan'. [Thank you to Graham for allowing me to plagiarise his report for the OCC Newsletter.]

We departed on Friday 7th June for Missolonghi and unfortunately had to motor the whole 54nm. There is a good size lagoon, accessed by a long channel - we have heard of folk running aground by straying out of the channel, but it's not difficult to navigate. Anchoring for the night, we started our preparations to leave MINNIE B for a few weeks while we returned to the UK. The next day we entered the marina where MINNIE B was to stay and we flew back to the UK on Tuesday 11 June. Given the timing of our flight and the mismatch with public transport we had to take a taxi to Athens airport, leaving at 0530. So, it was a pretty exhausted us by the time we arrived back in York late in the evening. The saving grace was that the journey was uneventful.

We return to MINNIE B shortly and plan to cruise the southern Peloponnese at a dawdling to modest pace, returning to the Ionian via the Corinth Canal.

2024 cruising season commences back in Greece

03 July 2024
Phil Heaton
Our 2024 cruising season started on 24 April when we flew to Preveza, having taken the 0630 train from York to Kings Cross and on to Gatwick airport. The journey was remarkably hassle-free. We met our friend Brian at Gatwick - he was also returning to his boat to prepare for a trip to Lagos, Portugal.

Most of the work we had commissioned over the winter had been completed, and we launched on 30 April, staying in Cleopatra marina for a few days to bend on sails, provision and ensure that all systems working. Our first destination was Vliho Bay, Levkas - it provides all round shelter and anchoring in 6-7m with mud provides a secure start to our cruising. The small town of Nidri is a mile or so away, and George's chandlery is an Aladdin's cave of obscure bits and pieces for the boat. Vliho Yacht Club is a good watering hole, there are good restaurants of the east side of the bay and topping up provisions is easy. So, an all round good place to start.

We stayed a week, in part because we wanted to see our friends Horatio and Orkide. What we didn't expect was to see the roof and upper floor of their apartment block to be on fire one evening. We were aghast as the flames and smoke soared, and the fire service were not able to get the fire under control for some time. It was Greek Easter, and some folk on the top floor had decided to cook their traditional lamb in their fireplace, leading to the chimney going on fire. Poor Horatio and Orkide had to find emergency accommodation in Nidri. Fortunately no-one was injured and it was weeks before they could return to their ground floor apartment.

Horatio and Orkide were quite stoical and we visited them a few times, and had a lovely meal in The Barrel in Nidri when Horatio's daughter, Alison-Ann came out to help.

Needing to get our water-maker going, and with the water in Vliho bay being somewhat murky, we headed for Mytikas. This is a good anchorage with wind from west through north to east. The village appears to have been barely touched by the explosion of tourism in Greece, and although it cannot be described as pretty, it has an authenticity about it. The small harbour is a great place to leave the dinghy. A regular movement of a flock of sheep along the beach provides an amusing spectacle of, well, sheep-like behaviour ...

Our next stop was Vathy, Ithaca. We had a decent reach for half the 23nm, which seemed to lift our spirits - motoring a lot is not great. Vathy is another favourite anchorage, with good holding in c.4m, and plenty of space ... until the flotillas arrive, but then they also provide a bit of entertainment as some try to Med-moor on the quay in unhelpful cross-winds. We are wholly sympathetic as we have all been novices, but at times the definition of stupidity is on display: doing the same thing over and over but expecting a different result, namely securely berthed.

We had plenty of time, as we were due to attend the Ocean Cruising Club 70th Anniversary celebrations in Vliho Bay in early June. So, we didn't wish to head off too far. A kind of gunk-holing was good for us. Lots of relaxation, reading, yoga and walking. Various boat maintenance jobs also kept us occupied. There is a nice coastal walk to a chapel at the head of the bay - a bit of rock scrambling required but a lovely destination, and the chapel is open for a quick look around.

And so, it was back to Vliho Bay on 16 May. Our friend James on Bellatrix was there and we had dinner ashore with him and other RCC members, Piers and Susie. Exploring the surrounding area for decent walks we found Cafe Thea, which is near the road to Desimi Beach, and has a large terrace, great coffee and a splendid view over Vliho Bay.

Meganisi, an island nearby called and we headed for Abelike Bay on 21 May, but it was quite crowded. We found good space and holding in Port Atheni. The only downside is that there is no signal for our phones so getting weather forecasts involves a hike up to a high point on the island. This proved interesting as the next evening the wind piped up and we had over 25kts blowing straight into the bay. We were fine, but once again there was a bit of entertainment and some boats dragged their anchors and others found themselves too close to their neighbours. We returned to Vliho the next day to discover they had 45kts wind and many boats were dragging. We learned something about the peculiarities of anchoring in different parts of the bay. With wind from the north, there is a funnel effect at the western side of the bay, and it's accompanied with poorer holding than in the middle and east side of the bay. Lots of dragging then.

On 25 May we headed back to Mytikas. With a restaurant recommendation from Piers and Susie: Cafe Ouzeri O Pharos. So, the next day being Sunday, it had to be lunch. Brilliant - so traditionally Greek: dad fishes and prepares the fish, mum is doing the cooking, and daughter is front of house. We asked what was that day's catch and ordered that - red mullet, baby octopus, with bread, dips and salad. Delightful.

That evening we were charmed by a visit from Mike and Helen, on Island Drifter, along with their granddaughter Emmy. It was nice to hear about their plans for a trip east through the Corinth canal and around southern Peloponnese, a trip we intend in the contrary direction later in the season.

Another visit to Vathy, a hike over to the east coast and some more exploring of the town, coffee and people watching. The supermarket is near the dinghy landing point and is well-stocked so all-in-all a good place.

On Sunday 2 June we returned to Vliho to prepare for the OCC 70th Anniversary Greek Rendezvous.

Season finale: Greece September and October

20 November 2023
Phil Heaton
Now back in the UK after a great autumn cruise in the Ionian and putting Minnie B to bed in Preveza for the winter. It has been somewhat hectic while onboard and since we returned, hence the delay in completing the 2023 blog.

In Corfu we returned to Gouvia Marina so that Electromar could sort out all our electronics wiring and install a new autopilot. They did a great job and now everything is neat and tidy, properly labelled and in good working order.

We met up with Graham and Tracey Kyte (OCC) who live in Corfu and had a lovely evening with them. Tim and Maria Barker (RCC and OCC) on Mina2 also arrived from UK and it was good to catch up, before we headed south on 14 September for an overnight anchorage at Petriti – plenty of space, good holding and we will return.

Our next stop was Lakka, Paxos. We had not been there since the 1990s when chartering and Anna and Julia were young. It was busy then and busier now. The village has many more tavernas and although it is “idyllic” the number of boats, their proximity and the total tourismo ashore did not generate the warmth we had felt for the place previously. On our last visit Anna did a dinghy sailing course in the bay – not available now and impossible given the number of charter, flotilla and owned boats visiting. We did have a very convivial time with Tim and Maria again.

Our next stop was back to Vliho Bay on Levkas where we visited our friends Horatio and Arkade who live there. We did a very nice hike on the east side of the bay with Alison-Ann (Horatio’s daughter) and her son Guy.

With a number of RCC boats around, four boats met up on 21 September at Kastos, anchoring outside the harbour (David and Sally Batten with Venetia Kenney-Herbert on Alcedo of Ryme, Heugh and Fi Symons on Alethia, and Tim and Maria on Mina2). A splendid evening with cocktails on Mina2 and dinner ashore. The next day it was drinks on Minnie B and we were joined by William and Sarah Maltby on Freebird who arrived that afternoon. Kastos is a very pleasant island and another to return to.

We headed south to Vathi on Ithaca for some reconnaissance. The wind from the NW blows down the channel but there is good holding and we tucked into a small bay so all was well. With a forecast for some rain and stronger N/NW winds we headed to Mytika which has good holding and a sound anchorage. We stayed two nights and on 27 September headed back to Vliho Bay for another RCC mini-meet.

The Kastos boats arrived along with Lionel Hoare and crew on Alcyone of Apuldram and Ant and Bimbi Fawcett on Moonlight Lady, and drinks were on Alcyone followed by dinner at Taverna Elena. We had a good hike with Tim and Maria, and David, Sally and Venetia to the Nidri waterfalls and underwhelming crepes for lunch in Nidri itself.

On 1 October we headed back south to Ayios Eufemia on Cephalonia. It had been a delight when we visited in the late 1990s, but it was incredibly busy with flotillas. We anchored inside the harbour but a forecast of easterly winds meaning we would be exposed, led us to head for Vathi on Ithaca the next day.

With good holding and a short trip ashore, we stayed for a few days, enjoying some reasonable hikes and having drinks in the town. We had a nice hike to the chapel on the headland and followed a path that would take us inland. However, we found ourselves inside a somewhat manicured estate and took the road out, only to find that there was an electrically controlled gate blocking our exit. Nevertheless, the design was such that it was quite easy to climb out. We had visions of security guards and dogs rounding us up and hauling us off, but thankfully this was not the hideout of a Bond villain and all was well. We met with Tim Goodyear and Jules Buckley on Mojito a couple of times for drinks and a walk, and they were good company.

A short trip north took us to Frikes on 5 October. The harbour at Frikes is unusual as the south quay provides alongside mooring and shelter from easterly winds and swell. This was perfect for us, as from 7 to 14 October we were attending a yoga retreat about a 10 minutes’ drive from Frikes.

Frikes itself has some nice restaurants, a bar with a good selection of beer, and a mini-market, and crystal clear water. A very pleasant place.

With a hire car we explored some of Ithaca including the alleged site of Odysseus’ palace. We had a walk to Kioni and watched the chaos in the harbour when boats tried to leave only to find crossed anchor chains and entangled anchors. Note to selves – if we want to revisit Kioni, go to Frikes and walk.

The yoga was excellent. Our teacher was Tara Lee, whose DVDs we began using during Covid lockdown in 2020. There were five other attendees and an assistant for Tara. We had 3-3.5 hours of yoga a day split into two sessions (morning and late afternoon). In between, we visited the nearby beach to swim and read, and used the pool at the retreat. The location was on the west side of Ithaca We took our meals with the other participants but stayed overnight on Minnie B. Our teachers helped us to improve our postures in the different positions and we came away invigorated and even more enthusiastic. With Phil being the only man, it was an opportunity to get in touch with his feminine side …. Or not …

On Saturday 15th October, we returned to Vliho Bay where we started to prepare Minnie B for winter lay-up. We also had a spectacular lightning show accompanied by some very heavy rain. We were relieved to have removed the mainsail before this weather event.

We went to the anchorage at Preveza on 19 October, removed the genoa and then went into the Cleopatra Marina for outboard servicing, engine preparation and removing running rigging. On Saturday 21 we had a super meal and a great evening with Mike and Helen Norris (who live in Harrogate) on Island Drifter and watched England nearly beat South Africa in the Rugby World Cup semi-final.

Haul out was Monday 23 October. We stayed for two nights in the Cleopatra accommodation and completed our lay-up of Minnie B. There was a real end-of-season feel to Cleopatra – the mini-market was running down its stock and the dishes available in the restaurant were reducing daily. We even had to reserve a bottle of wine for our dinner on Tuesday night.

We flew back to Gatwick on 25 October, stayed overnight in the Bloc Hotel which is a superb location in south terminal but strange in functionality – you have to download an App to operate the lights, and the shower soaks the whole of the bathroom. Oh well, a new experience.

Train to York the next day and we re-enter our winter regime. It’s been great to see daughters and their husbands and meet up with other family and friends after nearly 6 months on Minnie B. We look forward to cruising in 2024.
Photos in the Gallery

Marvellous Matera

06 September 2023
Phil Heaton
We stayed in Rocella Ionica until Friday 25 August, having walked into town and climbed the hill to the castle and its adjacent Torre di Pizzofalcone. The castle was abandoned for a long time and then the local council took it on and did some restoration including installing an impressive multi-media display and description of its history.

We had one night at anchor off the beach at Crotone (71nm) and another at Volvito (30nm). Our final stop before Taranto was Borgata (47nm) where we anchored just below the castle.

Minnie B was to stay in Taranto at Molo St Eligio – not the best marina we have been in by a long way. It is at the north end of the enormous harbour and the fetch with wind from the south west had the pontoon bucking like a rodeo steer. We didn’t know this before we left for Matera on Monday 28 August but had the full experience when we returned on Wednesday 30 August – it had been like that for two days and fortunately we had the equivalent of 10 lines on the stern and our big fat fender.

We took the bus to Matera – the bus station being only a 10-minute walk from the marina. The bus took an hour each way. We stayed in a hotel close to Sassi, the old part of Matera. It is famous for its cave dwellings and churches and an incredibly higgledy-piggledy layout of streets, alleys and houses. It is also famous as a film set for such as James Bond “No Time to Die”.

Over lunch on the first day, we marked up our map with all the places we wished to visit and we were slightly worried we had not allowed enough time. Ultimately, we only missed two things and that was because the Salvador Dali sculpture exhibition had been closed for a while, and because the foot path down into the gorge and the rope bridge had been closed as it was regarded as unsafe. This had the effect of slowing us down and enabling us simply to wander and see where alleys would take us.

Highlights were many. The views over Sassi exceed those of other Italian hill top villages and towns. The Cathedral seems to dominate the old town standing on the summit and visible from many angles. The Piazza di San Pietri di Caveosa with the nearby towering rock which has been excavated to form the rock church of Madonna dell Idris e San Giovanni in Monterrone is unique.

The nearby the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario is furnished as it would have been in 1953 when the Italian government started to move the families from the cave houses of Matera, embarrassed that people were living in caves (albeit with a walled-in opening and a door) comprising one room for a family of six or more … plus their animals such as a donkey and hens.

The church San Pietro Barisano dates to the 11 century, and is carved out of the tufa rock. It has three naves and a crypt where the bodies of the deceased were placed in recesses and not moved for burial until nothing was left but bones … and it has a bell tower …

The Chiesa del Purgatorio is decorated with skulls and skeletons, but there is a nearby bar close to Piazzetta Pascoli where you can get a refreshing Aperol or Campari Spritz sitting on the terrace and looking over Sassi Caveoso to the Cathedral and Madonna del Idris.

It was only recently that the enormous underground cistern of Palombaro Lungo was rediscovered, having been abandoned nearly 100 years ago when the aqueduct was built, and is well worth a visit. The Castello Tramontano is a modest affair, but notable for having been built not to defend the city but to repress the local population.

We had excellent meals with some unusual local dishes - lamb’s innards was particularly outstanding -and were warmly welcomed by everyone we met. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was a 2019 European Capitol of Culture and we cannot speak too highly of it.

Finally regarding Matera, under the tutelage of daughter Anna and son-in-law Neil, we have some photos of locations that appeared in “No Time to Die”, and of course a suitable pose had to be adopted by our one and only Bond girl …. the menacing black motorcycle in one of the photos was pure serendipity.

We did a quick provisioning when back in Taranto, filled up with diesel, motored and sailed the 48nm to Gallipoli where we anchored for the night. The weather forecast was such that we decided to stay until late afternoon when we set off for an overnight sail of the 90nm across the Straits of Otranto to the small island of Erikoussa, just north of Corfu. We had a superb beam reach once past Capo Santa Maria di Leuca with wind 17-23kts from the North, arriving after 13.5 hours at 0700 on Saturday 2 September.

The anchorage is fine as long as there is any north in the wind and there was, so we stayed onboard on Sunday with the wind 25+ kts. The forecast was for winds moving easterly and westerly so on Monday 4 September we moved the 12nm to Afionas on the west coast of Corfu … where we had gusts of F7 and torrential rain. A nearby boat dragged and it was fenders out to prevent any damage. The skipper let out more chain, as did we, and all was OK. Once the wind eased the skipper re-anchored and we hauled in the extra 25 metres of chain we had deployed.

So, the weather pattern in these parts has been affected, just as it has in the UK, by a massive shift in the direction of the jet stream. We have reached for our fleeces and rain gear, while the UK basks in 25C temperature. The folk in the UK deserve it and we are happy to take one for the team … for a few days at least.

Photos in the Gallery.
Vessel Name: Minnie B
Vessel Make/Model: OVNI 395
Hailing Port: Belfast, Northern Ireland
Crew: Phil and Norma
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Created 9 September 2022
32 Photos
Created 3 July 2022
20 Photos
Created 29 June 2022
23 Photos
Created 29 June 2022
15 Photos
Created 26 June 2022
6 Photos
Created 13 June 2022
41 Photos
Created 13 June 2022
29 Photos
Created 8 June 2022
12 Photos
Created 8 June 2022
No Photos
Created 4 December 2021
4 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
4 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
11 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
7 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
35 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
2 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
15 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
8 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
13 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
2 Photos
Created 11 December 2020
10 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
8 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
19 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
7 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
14 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
23 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
25 Photos
Created 28 October 2019
10 Photos
Created 16 September 2019
19 Photos
Created 16 September 2019
8 Photos
Created 16 September 2019
Santa Marinella and Anzio/Nettuno
3 Photos
Created 16 September 2019
14 Photos
Created 16 September 2019
5 Photos
Created 12 August 2019
10 Photos
Created 12 August 2019
11 Photos
Created 12 August 2019
40 Photos
Created 17 July 2019
9 Photos
Created 13 June 2019
and Fornells
10 Photos
Created 13 June 2019
14 Photos
Created 3 June 2019
15 Photos
Created 3 June 2019
6 Photos
Created 3 June 2019
22 Photos
Created 16 May 2019
13 Photos
Created 13 November 2018
14 Photos
Created 13 November 2018
3 Photos
Created 13 November 2018
24 Photos
Created 13 November 2018
42 Photos
Created 25 September 2018
8 Photos
Created 25 September 2018
15 Photos
Created 18 September 2018
33 Photos
Created 18 September 2018
13 Photos
Created 12 September 2018
10 Photos
Created 12 September 2018
15 Photos
Created 12 September 2018
9 Photos
Created 12 September 2018
8 Photos
Created 3 September 2018
6 Photos
Created 3 September 2018
22 Photos
Created 9 August 2018
30 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
Sao Joaoninas festival, Angra do Heroismo
23 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
Bull fighter, caves and fumaroles
17 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
around Angra do Heroismp
16 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
14 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
11 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
18 Photos
Created 4 July 2018
19 Photos
Created 11 June 2018
3 Photos
Created 11 June 2018
12 Photos
Created 11 June 2018
13 Photos
Created 14 May 2018
12 Photos
Created 5 May 2018
19 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
18 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
13 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
5 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
5 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
5 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
3 Photos
Created 18 April 2018
8 Photos
Created 31 March 2018
4 Photos
Created 31 March 2018
17 Photos
Created 31 March 2018
14 Photos
Created 10 March 2018
4 Photos
Created 10 March 2018
12 Photos
Created 9 March 2018
6 Photos
Created 9 March 2018
Charlotte Amalie and St John
7 Photos
Created 8 March 2018
Charlotte Amalie and St John
13 Photos
Created 8 March 2018
14 Photos
Created 8 February 2018
11 Photos
Created 20 January 2018
12 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
5 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
12 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
15 Photos
Created 30 May 2017
6 Photos
Created 5 May 2017
23 Photos
Created 5 May 2017
12 Photos
Created 25 April 2017
8 Photos
Created 25 April 2017
12 Photos
Created 25 April 2017
27 Photos
Created 31 March 2017
and Marie Galante and Les Saintes and Pigeon
32 Photos
Created 31 March 2017
Just a bit of it
10 Photos
Created 9 March 2017
6 Photos
Created 7 March 2017
The Baths, Very Good Tour and North Sound
32 Photos
Created 7 March 2017
White Bay and Carrot Rock
7 Photos
Created 7 March 2017
Benures Bay and The Indians
26 Photos
Created 7 March 2017
with the Flyin' Lows and Binkertoos
16 Photos
Created 11 February 2017
7 Photos
Created 11 February 2017
Francis Bay, Waterlemon Bay and Coral Harbour walk
30 Photos
Created 11 February 2017
Charlotte Amalie
3 Photos
Created 11 February 2017
23 Photos
Created 30 January 2017
24 Photos
Created 30 January 2017
Norma's Birthday adventure
12 Photos
Created 30 January 2017
Ste Anne, Trois Ilets, La Pagerie, Anse d Arlet, Le Rocher du Diamant, Sacre Coeur du Balata, Le Jardin du Balata and around
23 Photos
Created 13 January 2017
Christmas Eve with SAS3, Pipistrelle and GOSI; Boxing Day walk
5 Photos
Created 13 January 2017
Ste Anne anchorage and Chateau Dubuc
7 Photos
Created 13 January 2017
2 Photos
Created 13 January 2017
La Brea Pitch Lake and Waterloo Hindu Temple in the Sea
13 Photos
Created 6 December 2016
6 Photos
Created 27 November 2016
Cotswolds and Devon
10 Photos
Created 27 November 2016
13 Photos
Created 9 October 2016
Flamborough, Spurn Point and Beverley
4 Photos
Created 9 October 2016
NI with Norma's mum, sister and brother; Dublin and the Guinness Storehouse; Photo practice: Strangford Lough, Belfast Lough and Mournes
8 Photos
Created 9 October 2016
Wyning Brook and Bamford Edge
7 Photos
Created 8 October 2016
9 Photos
Created 8 June 2016
9 Photos
Created 19 May 2016
9 Photos
Created 7 May 2016
54 Photos
Created 7 May 2016
11 Photos
Created 7 May 2016
14 Photos
Created 23 April 2016
Western hemisphere to circumnavigation
5 Photos
Created 23 April 2016
46 Photos
Created 23 April 2016
28 Photos
Created 17 March 2016
11 Photos
Created 13 March 2016
Early 20th Century
7 Photos
Created 9 March 2016
66 Photos
Created 9 March 2016
39 Photos
Created 4 March 2016
7 Photos
Created 4 March 2016
4 Photos
Created 24 February 2016
To UK and back to RSA
14 Photos
Created 14 February 2016
with Richard & Susan (Sea Bunny) and Mike & Nicki (Zen Again)
35 Photos
Created 1 January 2016
Cape Point, Cape of Good Hope, Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch Gardens and MINNIE B in Christmas dress
18 Photos
Created 1 January 2016
Fernkloof, Harold Porter, Stony Point and coast
21 Photos
Created 1 January 2016
Trip, tour and prison
20 Photos
Created 1 January 2016
The Noon Gun, Hout Bay and coast
11 Photos
Created 31 December 2015
The V&A, penguins at Boulders and the Bo Kaap
20 Photos
Created 31 December 2015
30 Photos
Created 24 November 2015
42 Photos
Created 17 November 2015
8 Photos
Created 12 November 2015
65 Photos
Created 9 November 2015
7 Photos
Created 2 November 2015
42 Photos
Created 2 November 2015
5 Photos
Created 15 October 2015
9 Photos
Created 15 October 2015
11 Photos
Created 15 October 2015
26 Photos
Created 15 October 2015
5 Photos
Created 15 October 2015
15 Photos
Created 10 October 2015
2 Photos
Created 4 October 2015
29 Photos
Created 4 October 2015
9 Photos
Created 4 October 2015
27 Photos
Created 4 October 2015
6 Photos
Created 4 October 2015
28 Photos
Created 15 September 2015
70 Photos
Created 7 September 2015
11 Photos
Created 7 September 2015
31 Photos
Created 7 September 2015
Walks
13 Photos
Created 22 August 2015
With Tim and Liz and more harbour views
7 Photos
Created 22 August 2015
Feast of the Assumption and harbour views
15 Photos
Created 22 August 2015
Cathedral, Giant Tortoises and coasts
25 Photos
Created 22 August 2015
Fish and clams
11 Photos
Created 23 July 2015
28 Photos
Created 21 July 2015
11 Photos
Created 17 July 2015
2 Photos
Created 17 July 2015
Sultan's Palace
19 Photos
Created 7 July 2015
15 Photos
Created 7 July 2015
10 Photos
Created 7 July 2015
21 Photos
Created 7 July 2015
Sunda Kelapa Harbour to Fatahillah Square
36 Photos
Created 2 July 2015
3 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
5 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
16 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
21 Photos
Created 24 June 2015
39 Photos
Created 12 June 2015
34 Photos
Created 9 May 2015
18 Photos
Created 9 May 2015
84 Photos
Created 9 May 2015
49 Photos
Created 4 May 2015
64 Photos
Created 4 May 2015
25 Photos
Created 28 April 2015
Beng Mealea and around Siem Reap
49 Photos
Created 27 April 2015
Angkor Thom: Bayon, Baphuon; Ta Prohm; Angkor Wat
43 Photos
Created 24 April 2015
49 Photos
Created 22 April 2015
"Languid and lovely" - to be sure
56 Photos
Created 20 April 2015
20 Photos
Created 19 April 2015
47 Photos
Created 17 April 2015
6 Photos
Created 16 April 2015
44 Photos
Created 14 April 2015
James Bond remake
9 Photos
Created 11 April 2015
47 Photos
Created 31 March 2015
8 Photos
Created 21 February 2015
12 Photos
Created 21 February 2015
28 Photos
Created 21 February 2015
21 Photos
Created 21 November 2014
Puteri Harbour to Rebak, Langkawi
12 Photos
Created 21 November 2014
12 Photos
Created 7 November 2014
11 Photos
Created 25 October 2014
6 Photos
Created 25 October 2014
School and Long House
32 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
Boats and pits and beaches and folks
18 Photos
Created 15 October 2014
Orang-utans, Proboscis monkeys and other assorted apes and fauna
81 Photos
Created 9 October 2014
Arrival and town
7 Photos
Created 9 October 2014
Island stop en route to Kumai
6 Photos
Created 9 October 2014
32 Photos
Created 27 September 2014
27 Photos
Created 22 September 2014
43 Photos
Created 22 September 2014
37 Photos
Created 22 September 2014
Kuta, Serangan and lots of temples
56 Photos
Created 9 September 2014
Temples, volcanoes, rice fields, coffee and monkeys
39 Photos
Created 6 September 2014
23 Photos
Created 6 September 2014
18 Photos
Created 6 September 2014
13 Photos
Created 28 August 2014
23 Photos
Created 22 August 2014
14 Photos
Created 22 August 2014
31 Photos
Created 22 August 2014
8 Photos
Created 22 August 2014
70 Photos
Created 10 August 2014
14 Photos
Created 9 August 2014
12 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
31 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
17 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
8 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
12 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
7 Photos
Created 3 August 2014
11 Photos
Created 31 July 2014
20 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
13 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
20 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
8 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
6 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
16 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
5 Photos
Created 10 July 2014
11 Photos
Created 10 July 2014
20 Photos
Created 10 July 2014
10 Photos
Created 10 July 2014
3 Photos
Created 10 July 2014
29 Photos
Created 20 June 2014
3 Photos
Created 20 June 2014
6 Photos
Created 5 June 2014
24 Photos
Created 3 June 2014
16 Photos
Created 3 June 2014
4 Photos
Created 20 May 2014
15 Photos
Created 20 May 2014
20 Photos
Created 20 May 2014
14 Photos
Created 11 May 2014
26 Photos
Created 27 April 2014
9 Photos
Created 14 April 2014
6 Photos
Created 14 April 2014
5 Photos
Created 14 April 2014
8 Photos
Created 5 April 2014
9 Photos
Created 31 March 2014
5 Photos
Created 31 March 2014
6 Photos
Created 23 March 2014
15 Photos
Created 23 March 2014
3 Photos
Created 1 March 2014
6 Photos
Created 1 March 2014
12 Photos
Created 1 March 2014
21 Photos
Created 21 February 2014
14 Photos
Created 21 February 2014
12 Photos
Created 15 February 2014
11 Photos
Created 15 February 2014
19 Photos
Created 12 February 2014
10 Photos
Created 12 February 2014
13 Photos
Created 8 February 2014
20 Photos
Created 8 February 2014
5 Photos
Created 8 February 2014
8 Photos
Created 8 February 2014
6 Photos
Created 8 February 2014
8 Photos
Created 2 February 2014
24 Photos
Created 2 February 2014
23 Photos
Created 2 February 2014
8 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
21 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
42 Photos
Created 24 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 24 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 24 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
58 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
12 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
14 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
21 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
45 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
2 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
1 Photo
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
17 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
12 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
4 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
18 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
14 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
19 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
14 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
15 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
3 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
35 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
36 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
4 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
22 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
21 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
17 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
13 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
19 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
19 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
21 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
14 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
44 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
29 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
2 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
25 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
26 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
3 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
2 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
4 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
13 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
28 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
20 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
23 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
12 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
17 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
15 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
23 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
4 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
20 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
8 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
35 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
20 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
29 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
12 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
6 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
15 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
15 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
1 Photo
Created 14 January 2014
7 Photos
Created 14 January 2014
5 Photos
Created 22 October 2013
26 Photos
Created 9 October 2013
27 Photos
Created 9 October 2013
11 Photos
Created 9 October 2013
10 Photos
Created 13 September 2013
5 Photos
Created 2 September 2013
51 Photos
Created 26 August 2013
9 Photos
Created 26 August 2013
12 Photos
Created 6 August 2013
7 Photos
Created 6 August 2013
4 Photos
Created 23 July 2013
10 Photos
Created 17 July 2013
9 Photos
Created 17 July 2013
... and back to Isla Toboga, Panama City
6 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
8 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
9 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
9 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
11 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
for the fifth time
2 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
Galapagos to Marquesas
5 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
14 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
5 Photos
Created 8 July 2013
Arrival and Controller Bay
7 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
Round island tour
15 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
12 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
Daniel's Bay and ...
9 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
4 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
South Pass
9 Photos
Created 6 July 2013
6 Photos
Created 2 July 2013
No Photos
Created 31 December 1969
No Photos
Created 31 December 1969
No Photos
Created 31 December 1969